Used FJR purchase - Service advice requested

[Ozone51]

All sage advice, here. Trust me, many on this forum know everything.... and I mean EVERYTHING about the FJR1300. They can take it completely apart, down to the last bolt, and fix anything that could possibly go wrong.
But those guys and most of us will tell ya that, you may never (ever) have to worry about that. In fact, I dare say that your biggest concern for your FJR1300 is NOT riding it enough. They are as bullet proof as they come in the sport touring segment. There is a reason why the FJR is always listed in the top 10 of the Iron Butt Association rally. You ain't gonna ride 1000 miles a day for 15 days straight unless your shit is running and ready for abuse. Truth, man.

On the other hand, don't turn a blind eye. Flush your brakes and clutch thoroughly and lubricate all of the pivot points, and the drive shaft splines. At the next oil change, check your valves, flush your coolant, put in new spark plugs, and if you have a manometer, check the sync on your Throttle bodies. Wouldn't hurt to flush the fork oil out, but don't over-sweat it.

Then ride it, man. Ride it often and for as long as your arse can stand. Ride it as hard as you like, or if you prefer, throw her in 5th gear and just cruise. But ride it.

And bring your camera with ya when you do. Share your (s)miles with us....

You're right. Solid advice from everyone here so far. I've noted it all. I'll also remember yours - once the basics are covered, run her as intended!

 

[NBB]

My bet is your 1984 Honda Trail 110 tires last a LOT longer than your other two bikes....

Mine don't on the trial

 

[Bounce]

I make it a personal rule of thumb to do all fluids and lube when buying any used vehicle. If it looks like the oil was changed prior to purchase (a lame trick by slackers) I then will do the fluids and lube about 500 miles later (to let the new oil flush any crap they let build up). Unless they have a detailed service folder with receipts for consumables or dealership receipts for all maintenance, I assume they were slackers,

On a bike I will look at the services called for at the mileage of the bike and assume they were skipped (in this thread, that would include checking the valve clearances) unless they documented that it was done.

Assuming that "most" bikes never need to have anything done is a good way to learn you're not "most". For those who need adjustment when not checked, they are 100% of the ones looking at costly repairs.

A couple of us worked on making a spreadsheet that works out services beyond the basic scheduled miles in the Owners Manual.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/fjr-maintenance.xls

For brakes and clutch on cars and bikes, I prefer using a Mityvac to installing speed bleeders. It makes the 1-man job much easier because there's no need to pump the levers/pedals.

https://www.amazon.com/MV8000-Automotive-Tune-up-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1549122733&sr=8-7&keywords=mityvac

 

[TripperMike]

Sage advise below. My late '05 needed 2 valves adjusted at about 75K miles. Didn't need any prior and it didn't need it for the next 150K either. But it DID need it at 75K.

On a bike I will look at the services called for at the mileage of the bike and assume they were skipped (in this thread, that would include checking the valve clearances) unless they documented that it was done.
Assuming that "most" bikes never need to have anything done is a good way to learn you're not "most". For those who need adjustment when not checked, they are 100% of the ones looking at costly repairs.

 

[RiderX]

You are on the right track. Some anecdotal stuff: I bought a 2008 (16k) in 2017 and rode 1000 miles home over the Rockies.

The clutch and brake lines were brown and a tad thick. The final drive fluid was nasty and the coolant was a color I had not seen. It was probably all stock. Also had an idle issue that I had to do a TBS as there was no range left in the adjustment screw.

Changing fluids is a great idea.