when to switch to synthetic

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I don't know about PC, but at least in the truck I am using an American product. That makes me feel a little better as well. I decided to stay with Mobil for the FJR, since it is easier to find, should I ever need to add some during a road trip.

 
...it just makes me feel better knowing I am running synthetic.
Is it more PC (green) to run synthetic? I could get behind that. Hey, synthetic fuel...there's an idea!

Just a guess, but I'm gonna say, no. I think I remember reading somewhere where it takes quite a bit more energy to create syn v. simply refining dino. And doesn't that shit have the half-life of a bazillion years or sumpin'?

 
I think most "recycling" of used motor oils is just "burning as industrial fuel". That, or it's rebottled and sold at Dollar General.

 
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Cool. We've just about replaced the old EZ thread on the facts and fallacies of synthetic oil. Now, if we can just bash the BITOG forum a bit and note how Jestal was banned from there, that should just about do it.

The more you know...

 
In truth, the "Dollar General" oil does serve a purpose. Not a ligitimate purpose, but a purpose. Since we in the midst of "Redneckville" have no emission inspection process, there are quite a few oil-burning pieces of automotive crap rolling our beloved highways and byways. This cheap stuff offers 'Billy-Bob' a cheap alternative since his oil consumption is roughly the same as his fuel consumption. Seriously. And we wonder why this is a highly concentrated area for acid rain.

 
Look at the oil at Dollar General. It is sold as 'virgin motor oil".... Virgin as in nothing added to it. It is just oil. Rated API grade SA. No additives at all. Good for nothing. Not even door hinges. I cannot believe that someone still makes/bottles/sells SA grade of motor oil. It is not good for anything at all.

Quick hijack! :eek: :eek:

My high school autoshop teacher (the guy collected old oil cans :lol: ) told me he had to run SA or SB oil in his model T's and the detergents in the newer oils caused problems in those old motors. Was he right?

Sorry, but I haven't seen SA oils refered to in so long that it reminded me of that.

 
Thanks Jestal.

I didn't lay it out totally clear (tired early morning post) but you got it anyway.

I was thinking mainly about the excessive temps from compression transferring through metal parts to areas wet with oil.

 
I have about 900 miles on my new 2006.Broke it in relatively hard but not quite red lined, and changed the oil and filter at 50, 300 , and 600 miles.

Is it time to switch to synthetic yet, or put more miles on it first?
Yamalube 4 which is what the FJR comes with has synthetics in it already. Read the label! ;)

 
Jestal, A question for you, since we are covering everything about oil here.

A few years ago, my wife had a Lexus RX-300. She had a problem, that Toyota knew exisited, and subsequently warranteed for, called oil "gelling".

Early on, the oil light would come on, I would add oil, then it would come on a few months later. When we brought it in for service with the issue, they said that this particular motor had a possibility of this happening.

Now, my wife wasn't exactly "on it" with respect to getting regular oil changes, but I don't think she went any more that 8k on that particular interval.

What the hell is gelling?

-BD

 
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