Audiovox Cruise Control-Problem Solved?

[rfulcher]

I used these 2 for general reference and both have clear descriptions of wiring. I made my own minor mods to these procedures but nothing special.

https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/audiovox.html

The original installation guide, kind of dated but still has good info.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...;hl=check+valve

This is a good thread for an 06-07 bike except that the vacuum source is different from the norm and was debated by some. Read the thread and make your own choice.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The DIP switch settings I used that worked are:

1-ON

2-OFF

3-OFF

4-ON

5-OFF

6-OFF

7-OFF

Black jumper removed

The past standard at every site I could find was for 1,4, and 7 to be ON. Changing 7 to OFF was the magic that finally made my Audiovox cruise control work.

Just got back from a 900 mile trip to the Smoky Mountains. The AVCC in my 07 functioned flawlessly for the entire trip. I did one 100-mile stretch of interstate without stopping with 75+ mph average speed, multiple climbs, and temps over 100 degrees. The cruise control worked perfectly without a single false release. There were no false releases. By speedometer it looked accurate (+-)1-2 mph. By GPS the speed may have varied -3 or +2 mph when transitioning between uphill and downhill slopes. On long steady elevation changes or on the flats it was +-1 mph. :yahoo: As far as I am concerned the problem with my AVCC is solved :yahoo:

Ross,

I really appreciate all your hard work and also making me confident to buy one now!! :clapping:

There has been so much info on this; if you get a chance would you mind filling in the wiring placement and dip switch setting below. I just want to be on the same page and do the install right the first time.

AVCC's Wiring>>>TO>>>FJR (color/location)

#1 - BROWN - IGNITION POWER>>>>>>???

#2 - GREY - SPEED>>>>>>>>>>>>>>???

#3 - RED - BRAKE>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>???

#4 - PURPLE - BRAKE>>>>>>>>>>>>> ???

#5 - (NOT USED)

#6 - YELLOW - RESUME>>>>>>>>>>> (Yellow) on included Control Switch

#7 - (NOT USED)

#8 - GREEN - SET>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> (Green) on included Control Swtich

#9 - BLACK - GROUND >>>>>>>>>>>>(Black) Battery Ground

#10 - BLUE - TACH.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>????

Dip Switch Settings: (Are these correct???????)

SW1 (PPM = 8K)= ON

SW2 (PPM = 8K)= ON

SW3 (SPEED SIGNAL=TACH ONLY)= OFF

SW4 (SENSITIVITY=LOW)= ON

SW5 (SENSITIVITY=LOW)= OFF

SW6 (CONTROL SWITCH=NORM. OPEN)= OFF (using the supplied switch)

SW7 (TACH SOURCE SELECT=COIL)= ON

THANKS!!!!!!

 

[timalan]

Just got back from a 900 mile trip to the Smoky Mountains. The AVCC in my 07 functioned flawlessly for the entire trip. I did one 100-mile stretch of interstate without stopping with 75+ mph average speed, multiple climbs, and temps over 100 degrees. The cruise control worked perfectly without a single false release. There were no false releases. By speedometer it looked accurate (+-)1-2 mph. By GPS the speed may have varied -3 or +2 mph when transitioning between uphill and downhill slopes. On long steady elevation changes or on the flats it was +-1 mph. :yahoo: As far as I am concerned the problem with my AVCC is solved :yahoo:

I was hoping that you would return with great news. Mine has worked Flawless also. Ever since I followed your lead.

Thank you again for just trying some changes and finding what actually did work(for whatever reason)

 

[Inlaw1]

I used these 2 for general reference and both have clear descriptions of wiring.
https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/audiovox.html

The original installation guide, kind of dated but still has good info.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...;hl=check+valve

There is a color difference in the wires going to the brake light assembly in the rear sub frame betweeen the 1rst and 2nd GEN bikes. Be sure and use the wiring description for first GEN bikes with the first posted link, and the wiring description for second GEN bikes with the second link posted above.

 

[canyonman]

I removed the servo from my bike to have the ecu replaced a couple weeks ago. Mine was/is located under the seat.
Mine is already wired to the ecu, I dont believe I have the dip set to ecu I'll have to double check that.

Mine worked ok on the flats when it was cool but hills and rising temps would make it drop out.

When I put it back in I will make sure the dip is set to ecu and see how it works after that. I was going to add a couple more

vacuum sources ( only using one right now) but I'll hold off on that so not to screw up the resulting data.

Does anyone have the part# of the check valves smitty uses? the one I have is the double outlet one from napa.

Probably be a couple weeks before I'll have any info.

results are in

re-installed servo. my blue wire is and has been the stock length all along and always tapped in at the ecu all I changed was the dip #7 from coil to ecm.

went for a 50+ mile ride yesterday temp guage said 92F.

rode the longest hills around here, tried everything I could to make it drop out. set it at all speeds from 30mph-90mph couldnt get it to drop out! not one time.

going back out in a little while taking the wife with me for more load. temp is 94 we shall see. all appendages are crossed.

 

[cheapskate2]

I have also made the changes to my AVCC. I shortened up my blue wire and attached it to the ECU as I agree with RFulcher that this is just a good practice. For anyone worried about doing this, there is no magic in that suppressor. It is just a 20,000 ohm resistor. Mine actually had one of the thin leads break off right at the end of the resistor. I had a 22,000 ohm in my garage and put that in its place. I changed the switch to #7=off and away we went. I haven't done any long rides yet, but I have done several 50 mile rides in 90+ degrees at 75mph with lots of up/down hills and never a drop out. I'm feelin' pretty good about it. Since there was some discussion on the topic, I am only using vacuum from 1 cylinder and still using the cheapo check valve from autozone. If anyone has the part# and place of purchase for one of Smitty's magical check valves I'd be very happy to get one. All of the local stores only have the cheap ones, but so far so good.

safe riding all,

cheapskate2

 

[canyonman]

I have also made the changes to my AVCC. I shortened up my blue wire and attached it to the ECU as I agree with RFulcher that this is just a good practice. For anyone worried about doing this, there is no magic in that suppressor. It is just a 20,000 ohm resistor. Mine actually had one of the thin leads break off right at the end of the resistor. I had a 22,000 ohm in my garage and put that in its place. I changed the switch to #7=off and away we went. I haven't done any long rides yet, but I have done several 50 mile rides in 90+ degrees at 75mph with lots of up/down hills and never a drop out. I'm feelin' pretty good about it. Since there was some discussion on the topic, I am only using vacuum from 1 cylinder and still using the cheapo check valve from autozone. If anyone has the part# and place of purchase for one of Smitty's magical check valves I'd be very happy to get one. All of the local stores only have the cheap ones, but so far so good.
safe riding all,

cheapskate2

heres the check valve smitty uses. I finally found the link although I'm still using the napa model I had all along.

check valve source

 

[cheapskate2]

I have also made the changes to my AVCC. I shortened up my blue wire and attached it to the ECU as I agree with RFulcher that this is just a good practice. For anyone worried about doing this, there is no magic in that suppressor. It is just a 20,000 ohm resistor. Mine actually had one of the thin leads break off right at the end of the resistor. I had a 22,000 ohm in my garage and put that in its place. I changed the switch to #7=off and away we went. I haven't done any long rides yet, but I have done several 50 mile rides in 90+ degrees at 75mph with lots of up/down hills and never a drop out. I'm feelin' pretty good about it. Since there was some discussion on the topic, I am only using vacuum from 1 cylinder and still using the cheapo check valve from autozone. If anyone has the part# and place of purchase for one of Smitty's magical check valves I'd be very happy to get one. All of the local stores only have the cheap ones, but so far so good.
safe riding all,

cheapskate2

heres the check valve smitty uses. I finally found the link although I'm still using the napa model I had all along.

check valve source

thanks for the info

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

..., I am only using vacuum from 1 cylinder and still using the cheapo check valve from autozone.

with or without a vacuum reservoir?

heres the check valve smitty uses. I finally found the link although I'm still using the napa model I had all along.
check valve source

Two questions: Nylon or Polypropylene? 1/8" or 3/16"? Neither sounds right for the hose that shipped with the AVCC. (It seems like the 3/16" check valve is going to be too big and the 1/8" will be too small)

 

[Fred W]

I fully understand the concept of using multiple vacuum ports to feed the AVCC servo, and the need for a vacuum reservoir, and even the need for using a check valve between the vacuum source(s) and the reservoir. But what is the theory behind using a check valve on every port rather than one check valve on the line to the reservoir after the multiple port lines are combined?

I noticed when doing my install that there are already vacuum lines running between all 4 of the throttle bodies that go to the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. These lines have no check valves or other isolation between individual vacuum ports.

I opted to use two ports (1 and 4) teed together and feeding the single check valve built into my vacuum reservoir and cannot feel any detrimental effect (yet).

 

[ionbeam]

I fully understand the concept of using multiple vacuum ports to feed the AVCC servo, and the need for a vacuum reservoir, and even the need for using a check valve between the vacuum source(s) and the reservoir. But what is the theory behind using a check valve on every port rather than one check valve on the line to the reservoir after the multiple port lines are combined?
I noticed when doing my install that there are already vacuum lines running between all 4 of the throttle bodies that go to the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. These lines have no check valves or other isolation between individual vacuum ports.

I opted to use two ports (1 and 4) teed together and feeding the single check valve built into my vacuum reservoir and cannot feel any detrimental effect (yet).

I’m not sure how Yamaha has worked out the vacuum ports on the FI rail. I know that in a conventional carb intake the TBS ports are taken from the center of the carb’s venturi or at the fuel transfer slots. The FJRs TBS port is actually an air bleed adjustment. With no diode the two TBs are sharing a common vacuum level/air bleed. The fuel pressure regulator (Gen I) and the MAP sensor (Gen I) have ports that are most likely positioned in the throttle bodies so that ganging them together doesn’t matter. Additionally, the volume displacement of the FP regulator and MAP sensor is very tiny, whereas the AVCC vacuum diaphragm is a much larger and very dynamic in volume changes. That said, I did run my AVCC for a short time with several TBS ports ganged together sans diode and it didn’t seem to make any difference. I did put in individual diodes because I felt it was the right thing to do.

 

[Fred W]

I fully understand the concept of using multiple vacuum ports to feed the AVCC servo, and the need for a vacuum reservoir, and even the need for using a check valve between the vacuum source(s) and the reservoir. But what is the theory behind using a check valve on every port rather than one check valve on the line to the reservoir after the multiple port lines are combined?
I noticed when doing my install that there are already vacuum lines running between all 4 of the throttle bodies that go to the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. These lines have no check valves or other isolation between individual vacuum ports.

I opted to use two ports (1 and 4) teed together and feeding the single check valve built into my vacuum reservoir and cannot feel any detrimental effect (yet).

I’m not sure how Yamaha has worked out the vacuum ports on the FI rail. I know that in a conventional carb intake the TBS ports are taken from the center of the carb’s venturi or at the fuel transfer slots. The FJRs TBS port is actually an air bleed adjustment. With no diode the two TBs are sharing a common vacuum level/air bleed. The fuel pressure regulator (Gen I) and the MAP sensor (Gen I) have ports that are most likely positioned in the throttle bodies so that ganging them together doesn’t matter. Additionally, the volume displacement of the FP regulator and MAP sensor is very tiny, whereas the AVCC vacuum diaphragm is a much larger and very dynamic in volume changes. That said, I did run my AVCC for a short time with several TBS ports ganged together sans diode and it didn’t seem to make any difference. I did put in individual diodes because I felt it was the right thing to do.

Thanks for the reply, Alan. So you're saying you think that the location in the throttle body they pick-off the vacuum for the FPR and MAP sensor is different and makes it less significant. I'll buy that.

Thinking about this further I can see that each of the throttle bodies will actually experience negative pulses of pressure (vacuum) related to the firing order. As each vacuum port pulses it will want to pull air from any other ports connected as well as the AVCC. Once the AVCC reservoir reaches equilibrium it would not flow back to the port but any other ports will be at a lower pressure than the "spiking" port and so would flow to it.

[Light bulb over head] I get it now!! The peak vacuum at the ports and at the reservoir will be lower than it could be with individual check valves. The individual check valves would act as rectifiers on the multi phase pulsating vacuum input and the reservoir acts as the filter capacitor. ;-)

Time to hit the local NAPA

 

[Constant Mesh]

Check valves aren't required for each TB connection. As you mentioned on the '05 and earlier FJR's the four TB vacuum ports are connected in parallel with the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure regulator. Air can pass freely between TB's via this connection. Since the MAP sensor and pressure regulator are sealed devices there is no air flow between them and the TB's.

Also the California FJR's have an extra vacuum connection from TB's 1 & 4 to power the fuel vapor collection canister. There is no check valve in that system so those TB's are piped together with no flow control.

 

[Fred W]

Also the California FJR's have an extra vacuum connection from TB's 1 & 4 to power the fuel vapor collection canister. There is no check valve in that system so those TB's are piped together with no flow control.

Excellent info!! That is exactly how I have my vacuum lines plumbed for the AVCC, so I guess mine should run as good as any Cali Feejer. And I can save $10 worth of check valves.

 

[gr8eyes]

Timalan

You are welcome to use my garage to help with anyone who wants to install the cruise.

I'm 5 miles due west of the FAA in OKC.

I might be interested in doing my 07 if I had help. But there is no way I would tackle that by myself.

Glenn

 

[Inlaw1]

I dedicated the time to pull the AVCC servo on my bike this morning, which is mounted up under the tank and requires removal of the tank, draining the radiator so the water cross over pipe can be removed to get to the servo (replacing the water pipe is a MAJOR pain as it only lines up one way and you can't damage the O rings. Worst part of this job). Went ahead and changed anti freeze since it's due according to mileage.

Removed the servo and changed the #7 switch to "OFF" and left the blue wire it's original length and connected to the coil as it was originally. Got everything wrapped up shortly after noon and went out running errands in the growing heat of San Antonio. A combination of stop and go, freeway, side street, and a little country riding with multiple stops to let the servo 'heat soak' under the tank. Temps were 95-98.

Normally after riding in this kind of heat and a stop for a good heat soak there would be no way the cruise would engage any time soon. It would take riding for 20 minutes to blow air under the tank and cool things off. But even in the 95 degree temps it wouldn't hold long before dropping off. May as well forget using it under these circumstances.

Today, it worked flawlessly all day long like it's supposed to. It set, resumed, climbed hills, accelerated hills, set immediately after taking off from a heat soaking stop. I'm a very HAPPY CAMPER!! I'm 90-95% sure this is the fix, the switch setting. Of course I'll know in a couple more weeks after some longer rides under some more conditions, but this looks like it fixed my problem so far! WOOOOHOOOO!!!

Fulcher, many thanks for sticking with this and coming up with a fix! I owe you a beer and somehow, somewhere I hope to get it to you for finally getting me a cruise that works like it's supposed to!

 

[Constant Mesh]

If might be best to get the engine speed signal from the cylinder identification sensor located on the top of the cylinder head cover. This is a Hall Effect sensor which puts out a nice clean oscillating 0 to 5 volt signal.

When one of the #4 exhaust cam lobes is at its highest point (nearest the sensor) the output signal is 4.8+ volts. At all other cam positions the output voltage is less than 0.6 volts. The cams turn at half the speed of the crankshaft so the pulse rate would be half the the coil pulse rate.

But the signal would be very clean with no inductive noise. This sensor is identical to the speed sensor which drives the speedo and odo on the '05 and earlier FJR's.

 

[bmwhd]

Did I miss the part where it was explained (or theorized) as to how this problem was exacerbated by heat?

 

[rfulcher]

Did I miss the part where it was explained (or theorized) as to how this problem was exacerbated by heat?

Nope <_< hasn't been explained.

No explanation as to why heat makes the problem worse, but it does. The first 4 months I had my cruise installed were hot and false release seemed to be a function or miles or time. However as we moved into cold weather it became apparent that low air temp decreased the problem. If the air temp was under 50 degrees then my AVCC worked almost perfectly and as temp increased less so. At temps over 80 degrees it was almost useless.

With the DIP switch 7 OFF and a short blue lead mine now works all the time, everytime. life is good.

Maybe one of the electronic guys would like to take a guess.

 

[kaitsdad]

Did I miss the part where it was explained (or theorized) as to how this problem was exacerbated by heat?

Nope <_< hasn't been explained.

No explanation as to why heat makes the problem worse, but it does. The first 4 months I had my cruise installed were hot and false release seemed to be a function or miles or time. However as we moved into cold weather it became apparent that low air temp decreased the problem. If the air temp was under 50 degrees then my AVCC worked almost perfectly and as temp increased less so. At temps over 80 degrees it was almost useless.

With the DIP switch 7 OFF and a short blue lead mine now works all the time, everytime. life is good.

Maybe one of the electronic guys would like to take a guess.

The answer to that we won't know until O scope testing occurs - with heat as a variable.

 

[bmwhd]

Did I miss the part where it was explained (or theorized) as to how this problem was exacerbated by heat?

Nope <_< hasn't been explained.

No explanation as to why heat makes the problem worse, but it does. The first 4 months I had my cruise installed were hot and false release seemed to be a function or miles or time. However as we moved into cold weather it became apparent that low air temp decreased the problem. If the air temp was under 50 degrees then my AVCC worked almost perfectly and as temp increased less so. At temps over 80 degrees it was almost useless.

With the DIP switch 7 OFF and a short blue lead mine now works all the time, everytime. life is good.

Maybe one of the electronic guys would like to take a guess.

Hmm...perhaps the coil signal changes just slightly as the unit heats up? Maybe something else in the engine bay generates increased interference with heat? Oh well, doesn't really matter now. I'll flip my switch prior to leaving on my long trip next week. I won't have time to change the wire before I leave.