John_Dumke
Well-known member
I have been in the mood to service my bike, and thought I would look at the clutch (reading most threads on the clutch issues, which is a lot). The bike is a 2006 with standard transmission and 40k miles.
My major complaint is the VERY vague engagement point. My second complaint is the slightly (but not too bad) notchy shifting.
In reading all of the threads about dry and stuck friction plates, I thought I would investigate. My clutch plates were not stuck, and none had any residual goo, like some people have reported, but they were quite dry, but not bone dry. This I guess accounts for the moderately notchy shifting, which is only smooth about 10% of the time, but never horrid as in some reports. But during the removal and investigation I noticed the FJR has a diaphragm spring.
My major complaint with the engagement of the clutch is that pulling away from a stop, the clutch starts engaging when the lever is released, but it then takes an additional inch, OR MORE, before real power (grip) is achieved. In other words, the engagement point is way to wide, with most of the bite being achieved after the clutch is let out 80-100% of the way.
I don't think that this is a hydraulic bleeding issue? Or is it? My hunch is that it is more a function of the diaphragm clutch and /or dryer friction plates.
So I did order the Barnett Spring Conversion kit. And if I were to replace the plates, I would probably go OEM. My experience with Barnett Friction Plates is that they are always a little too grabby.
At 40,000 miles should I be replacing my friction plates and or the steel plates? It looks like OEM friction plates would be about $115 and OEM metal plates would be about $80.
I am soaking them now and they look ok. I am pretty hard on the bike, but most of the miles have been on trips, so not a lot of stop light drag races.
Hopefully the new spring kit will help me wheelie better. Not enough pop in the current springs.
My major complaint is the VERY vague engagement point. My second complaint is the slightly (but not too bad) notchy shifting.
In reading all of the threads about dry and stuck friction plates, I thought I would investigate. My clutch plates were not stuck, and none had any residual goo, like some people have reported, but they were quite dry, but not bone dry. This I guess accounts for the moderately notchy shifting, which is only smooth about 10% of the time, but never horrid as in some reports. But during the removal and investigation I noticed the FJR has a diaphragm spring.
My major complaint with the engagement of the clutch is that pulling away from a stop, the clutch starts engaging when the lever is released, but it then takes an additional inch, OR MORE, before real power (grip) is achieved. In other words, the engagement point is way to wide, with most of the bite being achieved after the clutch is let out 80-100% of the way.
I don't think that this is a hydraulic bleeding issue? Or is it? My hunch is that it is more a function of the diaphragm clutch and /or dryer friction plates.
So I did order the Barnett Spring Conversion kit. And if I were to replace the plates, I would probably go OEM. My experience with Barnett Friction Plates is that they are always a little too grabby.
At 40,000 miles should I be replacing my friction plates and or the steel plates? It looks like OEM friction plates would be about $115 and OEM metal plates would be about $80.
I am soaking them now and they look ok. I am pretty hard on the bike, but most of the miles have been on trips, so not a lot of stop light drag races.
Hopefully the new spring kit will help me wheelie better. Not enough pop in the current springs.
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