I do wake up suddenly after dreaming of getting a replacement bike in time to finish the rally. And don't make it sound like the HD did not finish of it's own fault. Big Bambi may have had a part in that.
Well, yes, you are correct.... I know you had some valve-sticking issues earlier in the rally, but tagging that deer with that FLHT was pretty much the ball game...
On a more serious note, your questions regarding cylinder head work... this platform does not routinely need *any* cylinder head work. It is, in fact, a non-issue with the FJR; the chances of you needing to get into the cylinder head are exceedingly small (Gen I Tickers aside, which was largely a dealer-serviced issue anyway).
In fact, the chances of you having to get into most any major system/sub-system components is pretty small... this bike is a tank; there are no chronic areas that you need to agonize over. It is among the finest solo Endurance Riding platforms out there.... it's big enough to have decent room to move and stretch, yet small enough to actually perform and handle in the tighter twisties, etc. It has a big enough fairing to protect you from the weather, but lithe enough to lane-split in SoCal to make the Santa-Ana checkpoint in time. B)
Go for a Gen II (2006 or later) to take advantage of the 590-watt stock stator. If you find a killer deal on a Gen I bike, aftermarket stators are made to bring up up to ~ 590-watts, but the aftermarket stators should be considered quasi-consumable. Many only last 30K-40K before being fried again. That said, my current aftermarket stator has 53,000 miles, but I have the familiar indications that it is near the end of it's service life.
Now, all that happiness been said, would the ST1300 also work for you? Probably. Maybe. If you ride in some very hot and/or humid regions, might want to think twice about that thigh-baking, shin-cooking Honda. And it you tend to occasionally ride at Higdon Three-Vein speeds, this is another significant negative for the Honda. Still, they are nice machines, and if you ride in cool climes at the posted speed limits, it could be a player for you.
Bottom line: go for performance. That would be the Yamaha FJR1300.... decidedly better performance. It is faster. It is quicker. It has more horsepower. It has greater torque. It weighs less. It can carry more cargo. It has a fully matured aftermarket industry both in accessories, and custom fabrications.
Perhaps best of all, you have the power of FJRForum.com behind this platform... no other forum on the planet has the wealth of FJR1300 experience and knowledge that this forum has. FJR owners are serious about riding the miles. Hell, we've even had ST1300 guys from their forum
come over here during the IBR, because that forum just didn't cover it all that well.
Again, Bob, good luck with your research, and I have no doubt you'll make the right decision for you.