Installing Audiovox Cruise Control

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Hi Shane-

NOT WORTH A DAMN!!

Worked on the bike ALL night. I did get the oil changed and the final drive oil changed along with syncing the throttles. ($175. day)

We verifed both grounds are good.

I added 2 additional check valves

I checked the coil connection again.

I also had to adjust cable linkage as the throttle was sticking.

I am still at a complete loss.

The Blue wire on the tail section is connect to the red wires on both control pad, and the red wire on servo, along with grey wire on of control pad.

Now let's think about this. When I test this blue wire on bike tail section with the key on, I get a light on my test light. The control pad is back lit, and it will turn on and off. that has to be good.

the yellow wire on bike tail section is connected to purple on servo harness. When I put the test light on this, I get nothing until I press either the front or rear brake. Since Imallin's 06 works with this configuration, I would have to think it will work on mine?

Now then, when I ride the bike with CC on. When I press SET (at 50mph) the bike lerches for second then nothing. When I hit RESUME, the CC seems to accelerate for second, the stops. If I pull in the clutch and hit SET the bike will REV for a second then stop. Same thing if I hit RESUME.

What I plan to do tomorrow. I plan to disconnect the purple wire to see if that changes anything. I am hoping that if I disconnect the wire, it should work, or at least rule out that wire as being the problem. IF that is not the problem, I will look at the coil wire again. That is really the only thing that we did differently. Everyone else seems to be using a vampire tap. I added an adapter with 2 male spade connectors (1 for coil wire (grey with red stripe) and, 1 blue wire. While they are not directly touching each other, the are on the same adapter. I dont know how that could be any different? But maybe that's a problem.

Time for bed!

 
The Blue wire on the tail section is connect to the red wires on both control pad, and the red wire on servo, along with grey wire on of control pad.

I think you may have found your problem. The red wire from the control pad should be hooked to the red lead (stand alone in CC kit) that has an inline fuse with it. This red wire has a male spade at one end to directly connect to the (4) wire flat harness from the control pad. The only wires that should be connected to the blue wire in the tail section (rear brake lights - always on when key is on) is the red wire from the servo. ( I connected the gray wire from the control pad to the left, front marker light )I wonder if the hot lead from the control pad is smoehow interferring with the other. Anyway, that's an easy switch to try.

Just to piss you off, I went for a short ride with my daughter yesterday and she was very impressed with my cruise. She thought it was smoother than my BMW..........go figure!

Good luck!

 
Guys,

I have been following this with interest because I would love to install audiovox on my 06....was told it wasnt adapted. You guys are doing a great job pioneering this installation. I just have one question...Where is Audiovox in this?? You are doing their work it seems.

Ron

 
I have been following this with interest...You guys are doing a great job pioneering this installation...Where is Audiovox in this?? You are doing their work it seems.
The AVCC is specifically intended for CAR and TRUCK applications and that is what they support. It would be great if Audiovox would make more motorcycle friendly power/weight settings available. FWIW, Audiovox documentation does have a troubleshooting guide included.

Those '06 guys have taken the AVCC torch that was lit in the past and are now going where no AVCC has gone before :lol:

 
The Blue wire on the tail section is connect to the red wires on both control pad, and the red wire on servo, along with grey wire on of control pad.
I think you may have found your problem. The red wire from the control pad should be hooked to the red lead (stand alone in CC kit) that has an inline fuse with it. This red wire has a male spade at one end to directly connect to the (4) wire flat harness from the control pad. The only wires that should be connected to the blue wire in the tail section (rear brake lights - always on when key is on) is the red wire from the servo. ( I connected the gray wire from the control pad to the left, front marker light )I wonder if the hot lead from the control pad is smoehow interferring with the other.
Okay, We know the following:

RED from Servo- Needs Switched 12v.DC (Powers Servo unit)

GREY Wire from Control pad needs Switched 12v. DC, (or be connected to an auto light switch/rheostat (back lights Control pad)

RED wire from control pad needs Swithced 12v. DC. (Turns CC on and off.)

Since the blue wire has a constant source of 12v. when key is on, I really wonder why this would not work.

"The only wires that should be connected to the blue wire in the tail section (rear brake lights - always on when key is on) is the red wire from the servo."

Since yours works, I will try to follow you here:

connect the RED Servo wire to Blue wire on tail. -done

You connected Grey from control pad to Left front marker light ( did you need to remove the farring to do this?)

Now, Where did you connect the fused red lead from Control pad?

What I am going to do tonight.

1. Disconnect Grey. (dont care if its back lit right now, take it out of loop) Then Test

2. Disconnect Purple wire. this causes CC unit to turn off when brakes are applied. Since the CC is hitting for a second and then stopping, I want to rule this out as an issue. It should work disconnected no? Its dangerous, but should work? Then test

3. find a different power souce for the fused red lead from Control pad.

See any flaws in this plan?

ps. Happy for you that yours works :yahoo: , I am currently debating whether I should float test mine or not! :angry2:

 
The purple wire must be either equal to or greater than 12V or 0V anything in between will cause the CC not to function. Disconnecting the purple wire and letting it float will cause the CC not to work. To disable the purple wire (allow the cruise to think everything is OK) the purple wire would have to go to a known good ground.

It was discovered in the past that some tail light/brake light systems would not take the purple wire all the way to 0v and this prevented the CC from working.

 
You connected Grey from control pad to Left front marker light ( did you need to remove the farring to do this?)

Now, Where did you connect the fused red lead from Control pad?

Just removed the small, triangular shape, black fairing BEHIND the marker light. It's held on by (3) phillips screws and (2) quick connect (the kind that you have to press the center and then remove). You can reach in and unplug the marker light. The middle wire, IIRC, is the hot when ignition is on wire.

Red fused lead is temporarily tapped into my main fuse box, with the "emergency flashers" fuse. I'll relocate this later to a yet to be installed auxiliary fuse panel.

Maybe you can take some pics and post here. We may be able to see something that would help.

 
While this may not be necessary to say, based on the seriousness of the consequences, I will say anyway:

DO NOT GROUND THE PURPLE WIRE UNTIL IT IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE HARNESS!!! Else things could go pffftttt and you get to find and replace multiple fuses. Whew, I feel better :D Disconnect from harness, then ground the purple wire.

 
"DO NOT GROUND THE PURPLE WIRE UNTIL IT IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE HARNESS!!! "

Hold on, what exactly do you mean? I was going to (with battery off) disconnect the purple wire from the yellow brake wire. Then connect it to the ground that the short black wire from servo harness is on. Turn on key, ride, and test.

This not work?

You connected Grey from control pad to Left front marker light ( did you need to remove the farring to do this?)Now, Where did you connect the fused red lead from Control pad?

Just removed the small, triangular shape, black fairing BEHIND the marker light. It's held on by (3) phillips screws and (2) quick connect (the kind that you have to press the center and then remove). You can reach in and unplug the marker light. The middle wire, IIRC, is the hot when ignition is on wire.

Red fused lead is temporarily tapped into my main fuse box, with the "emergency flashers" fuse. I'll relocate this later to a yet to be installed auxiliary fuse panel.

Maybe you can take some pics and post here. We may be able to see something that would help.

Question, Why could you not just tap the grey and red fused wire together on running light, Getting a little confused as to why a guy needs to find and tear into all these different hot leads on the bike? :huh:

 
I was going to (with battery off) disconnect the purple wire from the yellow brake wire. Then connect it to the ground that the short black wire from servo harness is on. Turn on key, ride, and test.
[SIZE=14pt]Perfect.[/SIZE] :)

 
Thanks Ionbeam.

Can you answer:

"Question, Why could you not just tap the grey and red fused wire together on running light, Getting a little confused as to why a guy needs to find and tear into all these different hot leads on the bike?"

 
For those of you still following this post I have Great News!! No Im not switching to Geico, I get to buy another F@#*ing Cruise control unit. You see, today I chopped my bike up even more. I changed the Control pad red wire, and grey wire to the running light on the left side of my bike. I then test rode and of course it did not work, Then I cut the purple wire off and grounded it, then I test rode. Guess what? It still didnt work. The I pulled the vacuum tube off the Servo unit, and ended up with the white tube snapped off. I am just about ready to give up on this deal.

 
For those of you still following this post I have Great News!! No Im not switching to Geico, I get to buy another F@#*ing Cruise control unit. You see, today I chopped my bike up even more. I changed the Control pad red wire, and grey wire to the running light on the left side of my bike. I then test rode and of course it did not work, Then I cut the purple wire off and grounded it, then I test rode. Guess what? It still didnt work. The I pulled the vacuum tube off the Servo unit, and ended up with the white tube snapped off. I am just about ready to give up on this deal.
I definitely feel your frustration! I installed a power distribution block the same time I did the CC, so that's where I tapped my power from (red wire with the fuse).

Take a step back, take a deep breath (and a beer), and keep at it. Keep in mind you don't have to go out on the road to test it. You can fire it up on the center stand see if the chain pulls when you set the cruise, though it won't stay on for long, at least it saves you the trouble of buttoning it up each time...

Jeff

 
What year is you bike? I was wondering if I should install one of those.

Anyway. I think If I buy another unit, I can just unsnap it ,and replace the defective part from the diaphram that has the cable. Ill see. Also, the issue has to be the blue wire going to the coil. has to be.

 
What year is you bike? I was wondering if I should install one of those.
Anyway. I think If I buy another unit, I can just unsnap it ,and replace the defective part from the diaphram that has the cable. Ill see. Also, the issue has to be the blue wire going to the coil. has to be.
Mine's an 04. I put the power block under the driver's seat. It's switched and fused, so no power unless the key is on. As I mentioned, the CC is powered on that (but the backlight comes off the left turn signal).

I spoke with Skyway when I was doing mine, and you can flip the wires on the coil if you need to for testing (at least I did, and it caused no problems). I've seen pictures of the install showing the gray wire on different sides of the coil.

Jeff

 
Well i got lucky, I was able to find an out of box unit that Shuck's had. The sold me just the unit for 50 bucks. Today, I wired a t-tap into the coil wire. just to make sure my other way with the double male spade connector wasnt the problem. I started the bike, and knew immediately, that is didnt work, a test ride confirmed it. I still have the same prob. It just lurched for a sec when turned on. NOTE: I still have the purple break wire grouned.

How much suction do I need? I dont have a gauge or anything, but i do have suction. Just enough to keep the tube on my finger, but no more. Does that sound about right?

 
Justin,

I just got your voicemail. Here's (3) pictures of the servo as mounted on my bike. The servo is not permanently mounted yet, just held in place by the black rubber strap.

Servo1.jpg


Servo2.jpg


Servo3.jpg


RebeccaI.jpg


This is Rebecca and I after our happy, cruise control test ride..........! :p

 

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