Auburn
Well-known member
will do. Hope to get time to do it next weekend. Gotta finish the BBQ area rebuild first.
Ivan's ECU Flash
- Thread starter Dudewado
- Start date
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jammess
Well-known member
Well??
I wish my 2010 had a gen3 ECU then it would be the perfect bike, imo of course.
Auburn
Well-known member
NO, I have not had a chance to ride. We are trying to get out this week sometime. Work and honey do list have gotten in the way of the test ride so far.
jammess
Well-known member
That does sound familiar. Don't let the hornets get ya. A hornet 2 inches long that can kill a human???? That and it eats honey bees for lunch. What a mess that would make on your windshield, probably drill right through it. Was in this morning's paper that these beasts were discovered in the Blaine, WA area so when you take your test ride head south.
Auburn
Well-known member
I got a chance to ride yesterday. Started a new thread here
All I can say is this Gen II tune is impressive. The bike should have come with this tune from the factory.
1911
Well-known member
Just took my 07 out for a spin after installing the Ivan ECU and a set of Ebay 2008 throttle bodies
To describe the experience without getting too wordy.........
HALLELUJA!
To describe the experience without getting too wordy.........
HALLELUJA!
jammess
Well-known member
I've found that my bike runs best with the O2 sensor disconnected. Here's my theory: Ivan zeros out all O2 sensor data points with his flash but if there is still an O2 sensor connected the ECU detects this and will try to go closed loop when other running parameters are met so I think after Ivan's flash it is best to permanently disconnect the O2 sensor and thus prevent closed loop operation all together. I disconnected mine and tossed it in the circular file and today was garbage pickup day. I also set all CO settings at +7 since Ivan doesn't make any fueling changes to the ECU at idle and my bike starts and runs more smoothly at idle if the mixture is a bit richer. +7 increases the air fuel ratio by about 0.5:1 at idle. I used a wideband O2 sensor with LC-2 controller from Innovate Motor Sports to measure the AFR at idle.
With the O2 sensor connected my bike would lurch or lope most noticeable in 1st and 2nd gear under light load with constant throttle. I think the ECU was fluctuating between closed and open loop to cause this loping. So after Ivan's flash forget the O2 sensor for best results, imo.
With the O2 sensor connected my bike would lurch or lope most noticeable in 1st and 2nd gear under light load with constant throttle. I think the ECU was fluctuating between closed and open loop to cause this loping. So after Ivan's flash forget the O2 sensor for best results, imo.
Being on the "cusp" of 2 map-states (where the ECU keeps jumping back and forth when riding at that point) was the culprit for the surging when commuting slowly in no-load conditions in traffic (steady-state throttle at about 35 - 40 mph iirc).
1911
Well-known member
Technically, it applies to any EFI that is set to meet EPA standards (hard cuts on throttle-off, etc.). The sort of thing a carb does naturally is to continue to feed some fuel after a throttle chop. An EFI has to be programmed to either lag a little (keep some fuel going), not chop to zero, or over-fuel right before responding to the chop. If the EFI is solely focused on MPG and emissions, these things are usually programmed razor-thin. When that's the case, you can end up with a low-load/constant-speed surge as the conditions keep jumping between 2 maps. This is why a dyno of most OEM tunes often shows an uneven curve (cutting fuel as low as it can get away with).
Good review of Ivan flash. I have an 09 1300a, and not familiar with drive modes? Are these on later years?
What about changing exhaust after the flash? Would it need to be re flashed?
What about changing exhaust after the flash? Would it need to be re flashed?
Hey Jeff. Great starting questions with the answers plus many more ideas offered in just this thread. May I friendly like suggest intro'ing at new member category, tells us how you got your FJR, maybe throw in a bike pic, read the new member stuff, give the forum something to work with.
Otherwise, get the flash and ride like you stole it. Tells us about it later. Thanks.
Archer
RossKean
Well-known member
Gen II does not have ride modes (fuel maps for different behaviors). It is unlikely that a reflash would be required after an exhaust change.
That answers my questions RossKean. Spot on. ty.
Question for yall. Ivans is closed from 8-1 thru 9-4 and I emailed a friend but he is probably out knocking off 1500 miles with his wife today 
If I confirm the CO settings are at 0 and verify and adjust if necessary my TPS on my 2010 is there any reason I cannot swap the ECU out of my 2009 that Ivan Reflashed?
If I confirm the CO settings are at 0 and verify and adjust if necessary my TPS on my 2010 is there any reason I cannot swap the ECU out of my 2009 that Ivan Reflashed?
RossKean
Well-known member
I don't see any reason why not. Also don't see why you would need to change/check the CO or adjust TPS.Question for yall. Ivans is closed from 8-1 thru 9-4 and I emailed a friend but he is probably out knocking off 1500 miles with his wife today
If I confirm the CO settings are at 0 and verify and adjust if necessary my TPS on my 2010 is there any reason I cannot swap the ECU out of my 2009 that Ivan Reflashed?
No direct knowledge on the subject and didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night...
I suppose it wouldn't hurt anything to try (or wait three days and check with Ivan).
The reason for the CO and TPS are at Ivan's instruction. I did this procedure when I originally installed it on the 09. ---> https://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/fjr1300_g2_2.htm
RossKean
Well-known member
I had not read that before. Your 2010 should be 0,0,0,0 from the factory unless you, or a previous owner, did the Barbarian jumper mod and changed it. As far as the tps is concerned, it is the first I have heard of doing this. I noticed that he said it was less critical than the CO and could be done later...
escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
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If I remember correctly, adjusting the TPS requires one of those stupid safety Torx drivers. And I think it's in a tight spot so it really needs a ground down safety Torx bit and a Chapman ratchet or an open end wrench to turn the bit.
RossKean
Well-known member
An indispensable tool set for bike work. Ratcheting bit wrench.
The FSM has a torque spec for the screw and this set won't help with that, but who worries about torque for this sort of fastener?
I have one like this but I have substituted a couple extra Allen bits for a couple of the Phillips...
Edit: Mine also has a standard extension adapter if you need more reach.
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