Let there be light!

[Justin]

Phase 1 of getting my new to me 2004 LD/Rally prepped.

Got my new AUX lights on Friday and got them installed on the weekend. Ordered a pair of model 60's and a pair of model 30's from ADVmonster.com.

Model 60: https://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-41/Model-60-LED-off/Detail.bok

Model 30: https://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-8/Model-30-LED-off/Detail.bok

The model 60 is a flood pattern and puts out a whopping 3600 Lumens. The model 30 is only 1500 Lumens, but the tight beam focuses the light way out.

Here's the install in progress with garauld mounts.

Both lights are wired into the remote control unit from ADVmonster: https://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-22/Waterproof-Wireless-LED-Dimmer/Detail.bok

On the FJR the stock lights don't come on until the engine is started, so I used a relay to power up the lights when the headlights come on. Tapped into the headlight relay to trigger the relay for the aux lights. Then I hooked up the highbeam trigger on the LED controller above to the highbeam and horn

.

Here's the aux lights at about 20%. Of course, a direct shot makes everything seem so much brighter.

I've since done a few night rides and have them adjusted to my liking now. The model 30 spots on the bottom are aimed in so they cross about 100 meters in front of the bike. The model 60's are aimed out just a tiny bit to illuminate the sides of the roads more and incinerate forest rats. The Model 60's are intense. The model 30's, while only 1500 lumens, do a great job with the spot pattern and fill that gap straight ahead between the model 60's.

On my Hayabusa, I have a set of the quad cree 3k+ lumen LEDS from 24x7diy, and I have to say the ADVmonster lights are enough brighter that they are well worth the extra $30 for a set. Also, shipping time from ADVmonster was way faster. The model 60's are by far the brightest LED lights I have seen in action personally (clearwater Kristas etc).

Once I add a switch to the system to power down the AUX lights completely I will post up some comparison shots. So far, I am very pleased with this setup.

 

[Justin]

Also - the following discount code gets you 10% off any purches - "inmate". That's the code posted on advrider.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Good looking lights and reasonable prices.

Thanks for the info and link!

--G

 

[flars]

I have a model 60 on the right, and a model 30 on the left, and they saved my bacon during the Cape Fear. Ran into a lot of rain, and being out in the middle of Nowhere, NC, the stock headlights were worthless. When I turned off the LEDs, it was as if the headlight was turned off. The only way I could tell the headlights were actually on was that the shoulder took on a yellow tint.

During last year's The Void, I had a the Model 30 spot and a Model 40 (I think) flood, and that was pretty good. The Model 60 is VERY nice.

 

[jbjamn]

Hey flars, which light is on which side? Do you find you get flashed for the lights being on when passing?

 

[Justin]

Hey flars, which light is on which side? Do you find you get flashed for the lights being on when passing?

I'm not flars, but typically when people run that combo, the spot goes on the left and the flood on the right. With my LEDs I use a dimmer for low beam so they run at about 20% and I don't get flashed. People do get out of my way though

 

[flars]

Well, I AM flars, and Justiin is correct - spot on left, flood on right. I don't have these lights on a dimmer, just a switch under the left control group, and use them only when there ain't nobody around. During an LD rally, that long lonesome road is damned dark.

 

[jbjamn]

Excellent, thanks guys.

 

[Justin]

Just wanted to update this thread with how I think this setup performs. Let me say, for $330, this setup is awesome. I've got a few thousand miles on this setup now, and I'm pretty darned happy with it. Took me a while to get the aiming setup right to get the max out of all the lights. After trial and error, I aimed the floods straight ahead, and the spots cross a few hundred yards from the bike. I have good light out to about 1000 feet, and usable light (i.e. I can see shapes) out to about a 1/4 mile. Heck, out on the open road at night, I will light up signs that are over a mile and half out. While the spots are only 1500 lumens each compared to the 3600 lumens each of the floods, the tight beam delivers light right where I want it. I do a lot of night riding, and I've had some instances where I've made use of the lights already, and stopped/slowed well before I reached the deer or other object.

Shot shows how I have the spots (bottom) aimed in a hair. The floods (top) are straight ahead.

Bottom line, if you want a lot of bang for your buck, this is the way to go.

 

[Mike Aldea]

$330 covers your lights and dimmer. But I'm sure there had to be some other costs involved like switches and mounting brackets. What did you chose for switches and where did you source them and the mounting brackets? What did these additional items cost? If I can afford it, I'd like to do a similar setup in the next few weeks before EOM.

Btw the "inmate" code makes the Model 60s from ADVmonster $9 cheaper than the Quad CREE XM-L2 3600LM 30Watt 12V Off Road LED Light from 24x7diy. That is a good deal!

 

[Justin]

For the switch, I just added a simple momentary switch to the trigger wire for the relayed power (which comes from the headlight relay). ADVMonster sells them for $12 - https://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-4/Waterproof-Switch/Detail.bok, can probably find one cheaper.

For the brackets, I originally tried a set sold by forum member garauld, but they vibrated too much with my setup as they are aluminum. Those were $35. I have since gotten a hand me down set of Bill McAvan brackets for free, but those are no longer made. MCL makes a set for the Gen2 which are made of steel - https://www.motorcyclelarry.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_5&products_id=389. I'd rather pay extra for those than have my lights vibrating all the time. so, you'd be looking at another $100 for the switch and brackets if you went that route.

 

[Ignacio]

While the spots are only 1500 lumens each compared to the 3600 lumens each of the floods, the tight beam delivers light right where I want it. I do a lot of night riding, and

Bottom line, if you want a lot of bang for your buck, this is the way to go.

That first observation is interesting as I have half a generation behind you with the same spots and the lower output floods. I'd wondered if I *needed* to upgrade the latter like it would add downrange punch. I've thought it wouldn't do that much for certain night desert cruising and will leave me 3600 lumen floods (yes, I just bought a set) on my Husqvarna as the sole lights.

And I agree with the latter. Having done this light thing through stock, to more lumen bulbs, to FF50 aux lights, to adding HID Hella FF200 with low beam HID conversion, back to stocker or higher lumen bulbs with about the same setup you have.....the price of LEDs, lumen-per-watt-ratio for our challenged alternators, small form factor, reasonable price, ease of install, instant-on, and light quality are THE BEST in my experience.

The only thing I can possibly quibble about is the light pattern. Many of those photons get wasted into outer space and tree tops in all but the spots....but that's chump change compared to the surplus of photons that do reflect off important things. LEDs are better than HID by far.

Anybody wanna buy a set of used FF200 HID in good condition for $300?

 

[Justin]

That first observation is interesting as I have half a generation behind you with the same spots and the lower output floods. I'd wondered if I *needed* to upgrade the latter like it would add downrange punch. I've thought it wouldn't do that much for certain night desert cruising and will leave me 3600 lumen floods (yes, I just bought a set) on my Husqvarna as the sole lights.

For me, it took a lot of re-aiming to get the spots right, which might be part of it. They basically fill the void between the floods that point straight ahead. I think it's a combo the increased power of the model 60's with good aiming of the floods. You can check it out at big sky and see if you notice much difference than yours.

And yeah, they really are awesome for owl spotting at night :lol:

 

[redneckj]

Isn't it just easier to install a H4 6000k Hi/Low HID kit?

 

[Justin]

Isn't it just easier to install a H4 6000k Hi/Low HID kit?

What I read while researching lighting for the FJR was that HIDs do not perform well in the light reflector of the FJR. Well, the highbeams don't perform well, and the low beams are decent.

 

[RiderX]

Couple comments. The 3500-4000 lumen China lights certainly add a lot to HIDs H4 replacements. I ran that way for 50k last year through a bunch of rallies.

Not to piss in anyone's Cheerios as I thought your post (Justin) was good and informative but there is zero focusing ability in those lights. They are just 2,3,4, or even 5 Cree with a diffuser surrounding. So to call the 30s spots and 60s flood is a little off, based of my experience--ie, the 30s if aimed identically don't go farther than the 60s. That being said, I see what you're doing with the separate aim points and I know from experience that is pretty killer

For far, I haven't found anything better than Cyclops Adventure Sports Optimus. Available in a 10 or 20 degree pattern-- there is nothing outside of that. Lifetime warranty and well made.

Combine with something for lotsa light (flood fill) and you have a bit of improvement for high speed night riding. My opinion. I'll start another thread as a group buy is coming on them . I'm a believer.

Iggy, you can check them out at ITU if you like next weekend.

Mmmmmm, light.

 

[Justin]

I have seen the Optimus in action, and as I recall, it did not throw light any further than my setup. I do recall being very impressed with the amount of light from a single LED though. We'll get a chance to compare and contrast in Big Sky though, and I'll be happy to eat humble pie if my memory is proved wrong

As I said above, it took a lot of work to get the lights aimed right, and the constant tinkering paid off. While not as focused as the Optimus, the model 30's are WAY more focused than the floods. Just take a look at the detailed pics on the following two pages and you'll see what I mean.

30: https://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-8/Model-30-LED-off/Detail.bok

60: https://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-41/Model-60-LED-off/Detail.bok

It comes down to the size of the chip behind the reflector. You just can't get a spot pattern from a cree xml t6 in the small format housing. The model 30's use a smaller LED chip, and are able to cast a spot beam.

Looking forward to our light shootout next week!

 

[RiderX]

Very fun! Ah, it's JP! So you think the 30s shoot farther than the 60s? I didn't see that

-the other JP. . . M

 

[Ignacio]

Isn't it just easier to install a H4 6000k Hi/Low HID kit?

Easier? Probably.

As effective? Not even close. That kit was better than a stocker on low beam and a bit more light on high beam, but a bit weird too. You net more light, but your sight picture has weird areas that I found distracting.....I tried 'em in my long list.