Wow... that was a lot of marketing hyperbole to say that they added an extra ply to stiffen the carcass.
Now, what is the downside of running the non-GT supposed to be?
Now, what is the downside of running the non-GT supposed to be?
Michelin Pilot Road 4 - GT version?
- Thread starter zenwhipper
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Cav47
Adventure Seeker
Anecdotal evidence for sure, but this really did happen.
Bought a set of GTs in California. Rode the pacific coast highway to Oregon and back to Illinois. I was heavily loaded for camping. Lots of high speed slabbing and some twistie roads. Rode to Maggie Valley and the Dragon. Slabbed to get there mostly then rode 2 full days of twisties. I am not a fast rider, but I scrape pets when I want to push it. Slabbed home. Rode to Wisconsin and rode mostly sweepers and slabbed home, Just returned from Arkansas. Rural highways there, 500 miles there. 600 + miles of curves while there. 500 miles home. Tire was punctured somewhere there and I know I rode at least 200 miles on a leaking/flat tire. 17.5 psi is not recommended by the manufacturer for sure. The tire held up to my stupidness and got me back alive despite my efforts to the contrary. I think the stiffer sidewall construction could have probably saved me a really bad scenario while pushing to keep up with our group. Plugged it and it held exactly 41.5 psi the whole way home. And I was not nice to it trying to keep up with Allen on the ride through Mark Twain National Forest. All told this tire has over 10,000 miles it owes me nothing. I got my money, value, and fun out of it. The edges are feathered and there are no chicken strips. I will rebuy this model. That is just my 2 cents. Obviously YMMV, but I thought I would share this. I am not making a reccomendation for u, but it is a data point to make your decision. Good luck.
Bought a set of GTs in California. Rode the pacific coast highway to Oregon and back to Illinois. I was heavily loaded for camping. Lots of high speed slabbing and some twistie roads. Rode to Maggie Valley and the Dragon. Slabbed to get there mostly then rode 2 full days of twisties. I am not a fast rider, but I scrape pets when I want to push it. Slabbed home. Rode to Wisconsin and rode mostly sweepers and slabbed home, Just returned from Arkansas. Rural highways there, 500 miles there. 600 + miles of curves while there. 500 miles home. Tire was punctured somewhere there and I know I rode at least 200 miles on a leaking/flat tire. 17.5 psi is not recommended by the manufacturer for sure. The tire held up to my stupidness and got me back alive despite my efforts to the contrary. I think the stiffer sidewall construction could have probably saved me a really bad scenario while pushing to keep up with our group. Plugged it and it held exactly 41.5 psi the whole way home. And I was not nice to it trying to keep up with Allen on the ride through Mark Twain National Forest. All told this tire has over 10,000 miles it owes me nothing. I got my money, value, and fun out of it. The edges are feathered and there are no chicken strips. I will rebuy this model. That is just my 2 cents. Obviously YMMV, but I thought I would share this. I am not making a reccomendation for u, but it is a data point to make your decision. Good luck.
danh600
Well-known member
I got 6,000 out of the original front tire. Replaced it with GT and will probably get 10,000 out of it.
But I live in Florida and have to ride 100 miles to get to a curve.
But I live in Florida and have to ride 100 miles to get to a curve.
roger dodger
Well-known member
I ride PR4s. I watched the video (accent drives me crazy) and still never heard any info about how the GT gives better mileage.
I like dual compound tires, I understand using a stiffer sidewall for heavy loads, but the GT does NOT say it gives higher mileage.
The PR4 says it gives higher mileage to the PR3 due to harder (dual compound) rubber on the rear tire. The GT is just stiffer. YMMV
I like dual compound tires, I understand using a stiffer sidewall for heavy loads, but the GT does NOT say it gives higher mileage.
The PR4 says it gives higher mileage to the PR3 due to harder (dual compound) rubber on the rear tire. The GT is just stiffer. YMMV
zenwhipper
Well-known member
^^^^ Roger that rodger dodger. GT is heavier construction for bigger bikes, not for longer mileage.
...which buys you, what, exactly?
Maybe better road feel 'cause it's not as squishy? I don't know. I rode around Sunday and like all new tires, they feel great.
Probably as good a guess as any. The marketing puffery doesn't seem to tell you what it does for you. Just that "you need it".
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
That means I just paid $20 extra bucks for a T30 GT that I didn't need to spend. First time I've ever sprung for one but thought I'd give it a try. I guess it won't kill me, and I'll see if I like it. Hell, for all I know, I've been missing out.
Redfish Hunter
Gone Fishing
Oh, I don't know. You definitely fulfill the extra heavy weight requirement.
Besides having the letters "GT" on the sidewall of your tire makes you cool. Of course you are already cool but now you will be even more cool.
Just think how cool you would be if you had "GT" on the side of your FJR. That would be super cool.
I am still deciding what tire to order for my first set on Scar. With more miles and warmer weather the OEM Bridgestones have been working very well but I always loved the PR3s. Locally the PR3s cost more than the PR4s, I am not sure of the reasons behind that.
zenwhipper
Well-known member
OPer here. I went with the GT version. This is a what is spec-ed for the bike and a pretty simple design/functional concept that is used across many m/c tire manufacturers for larger sport touring bikes. The one thing I will say- is the cross between a radial and bias ply tire will be interesting. I will post up when I start riding on the new rubbers. If I don;t like them, I am not opposed to getting a new set of something else.
Cheers Mates.
Cheers Mates.
FXRS
Active member
Cav47-
This is the type of anecdotal info I like. A story can add valuable context, so thank you.
Curious, what PSI were you running front and rear on your journey for these PR4GT's?
Thanks!
This is the type of anecdotal info I like. A story can add valuable context, so thank you.
Curious, what PSI were you running front and rear on your journey for these PR4GT's?
Thanks!
sgoat
Well-known member
I'm an equal opportunity Michelin user. I run a PR4 GT on the rear, and a standard PR4 on the front. I'm thinking a greater percentage of the load is towards the rear when I'm touring with fully loaded bags and top box. Not sure if there is any real advantage to running this combination but it makes me feel better!
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Cav47
Adventure Seeker
You are welcome. At least someone can benefit from my stupidness. I usually check my tires every time we ride out in the morning. But I was the slowest dresser in the morning because I just got a new jacket and was always messing with the fit, my gloves and music for the ride. It seemed like I was always still getting dressed when the others in the group were sitting on their bike looking at me like "Let's go Dumbass". They were not rushing me at all, I am just slow!! (Insert joke here). I faithfully run 39.5 in the front and 41.5 in the back with my digital Slime gauge. Not sure the pressures are the cause for the good mileage, but more likely, that I do not ride hard. Especially once the bike is upright. I almost never gas it up in a straight line. Around town, and almost everywhere, I skip second gear and fourth when there is no reason to get after it. I believe that an engine and related parts only have so many RPMs in them----why use them up prematurely. Save them for when the fun stuff presents itself. I get enough straight line boring stuff here in Illinois. As always YMMV. Hope this helps.
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FXRS
Active member
Cav47- Thanks for the additional info. It does help out the overall "data point" as you say.
Over the years I've come to believe that psi, riding style & suspension setup are the three legged stool of tire life. At least for psi it will be helpful having your reference pressures then I can adjust from at least a known starting point that seemed to work for well for you. Thanks again.
By the way, I have a friend who, when we were trail riding our dual sports a few years ago on a trip, was always booted up and pulling out while I'm still gearing up. Never mind that I was parking the trailer and locking up the tow vehicle - so I feel for you there!
Over the years I've come to believe that psi, riding style & suspension setup are the three legged stool of tire life. At least for psi it will be helpful having your reference pressures then I can adjust from at least a known starting point that seemed to work for well for you. Thanks again.
By the way, I have a friend who, when we were trail riding our dual sports a few years ago on a trip, was always booted up and pulling out while I'm still gearing up. Never mind that I was parking the trailer and locking up the tow vehicle - so I feel for you there!
bgross
Recusant Infidel
I just put the same tire on the 'Bird (T30 GT). Since it'll be my first experience on this bike, I won't know how they compare to others.
As usual, my ignorance is bliss.
danh600
Well-known member
I posted in this thread a year ago. I wore those GTs out and loved the tire. Double the miles from the original tires. They handled great right to the end.
Now fast forward to now and I still have PR4s, but I have non-GTs on the FJR. Didn't really plan it that way. Decided to change a tire right before a trip. Called a dealer and scheduled a tire change. When I got there all they had were the non-GT version. I specifically said GT on the phone. They didn't even know there was a difference. They would have to order the GT. Rather then cancel the appointment and scramble to find a GT I just put that non-GT tire on.
I could tell no difference in the ride. Now keep in mind I never ride 2 up (wife has her own bike). Most of my rides are not heavily loaded. Only a few rides a year, when I am camping, are heavily loaded.
I actually ended up putting a non-GT on the rear also. Still I can tell no difference in the ride or handling. We shall see if I get similar mileage as time goes on.
Honestly, next time I will put on GTs on the bike, cause that's what the book says to use. But the good news is so far the FJR didn't spontaneously combust cause I put the non-GTs on there.
I have found most dealers do not know there is a difference. If you want GTs you need to be very specific!
Now fast forward to now and I still have PR4s, but I have non-GTs on the FJR. Didn't really plan it that way. Decided to change a tire right before a trip. Called a dealer and scheduled a tire change. When I got there all they had were the non-GT version. I specifically said GT on the phone. They didn't even know there was a difference. They would have to order the GT. Rather then cancel the appointment and scramble to find a GT I just put that non-GT tire on.
I could tell no difference in the ride. Now keep in mind I never ride 2 up (wife has her own bike). Most of my rides are not heavily loaded. Only a few rides a year, when I am camping, are heavily loaded.
I actually ended up putting a non-GT on the rear also. Still I can tell no difference in the ride or handling. We shall see if I get similar mileage as time goes on.
Honestly, next time I will put on GTs on the bike, cause that's what the book says to use. But the good news is so far the FJR didn't spontaneously combust cause I put the non-GTs on there.
I have found most dealers do not know there is a difference. If you want GTs you need to be very specific!
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Bill Lumberg
Merica
The only reason I have considered a GT is specifically to make the consequences of a blowout or undetected loss of pressure less dramatic. That's the reason (I think) that so many LE agencies spec run-flat or GT tires for service bikes.
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