beeroux
Well-known member
Careful work, not brain surgery, and you too can have a better stator.
Think you can be a Long Distance player with a stock Stator? Think again.
See the dark color? The blackened charring? That ain't BBQ sauce folks, thats a near deceased stator in 20-50 oil. Not good.
So perhaps you bought one of the excellent Electrosport replacement stators. The following article will help you install a new stator and enjoy the benefits that ample power can bring. Big thanks to Warchild for showing me the ropes on this one.
Tools:
wire cutter/ stripper
Male/ Female .250 spade terminals ( not shown )
shrinkwrap/ solder/ etc
gasket remover
Impact wrench with #3 Phillips head
5mm Allen socket
T30 Torx socket
#3 Phillips screwdriver
X-acto knife or razor
Blue Loctite/ threadlocker
Pages 341 and 342 of the service manual may prove helpful as well.
Start this job by removing the left side dash panels, and the cowling as well. Just underneath the radiator fill cap find the regulator/ rectifier, and the grey connector with three white wires running into it.
You needn't disconnect this connector, as long as you took the ground off the battery. The 3 white wires you see here are headed down into the stator. Follow this wire down into the engine area, and find where it exits towards the stator connection. Stock, these 3 white wires run from connector to stator in one continuous shot. We will be cutting into this bundle and connecting the new stator wires into this bundle. We do this to continue enjoying the benefits of this stout and water-proof connector. Let us now consider WHERE we will cut into this stock bundle.
I basically cut into the stock bundle just outside the point where the stock bundle ( of 3 white wires ) exits the stator, making the cut to the right of the wire holder and the top stator cover bolt. From above the engine, pull this end up past the frame so you can attach male spade connectors. If you're doing this job, I assume you know how to wire properly. But for grins, lets go over the whole drill.
Strip and crimp a male spade to the stock stator wire coming from the grey connector. Solder this connection lightly, then shrink wrap the wire/ crimp connection. Also solder the female spade crimp that came with the stator. Insert male spade into female spade, then run another piece of shrink wrap OVER THE ENTIRE CONNECTION. You know have a tight spade connection backed up by the shrink. If this connector comes apart in use I'll eat my bike. Do this 3 times, and do it AFTER you have the new stator installed. Duh.
Ensure that you can get the loom back on OVER all these connections. Think ahead with this and you'll be fine.
With the 5mm allen socket, remove all the bolts from the stator cover. Note the location and orientation of the two wire brackets, and also note that the bottom bolt is shorter then the rest. With bolts removed, gently pull stator cover straight away from the bike. Be prepared to catch dripping oil with a stock pot or similar.
Since the stator is magnetic, you need to apply gentle but firm force to the cover. You'll be trying to overcome magnetic force. I used a stock pot with a stiff board covered by soft plastic from a storage container. This allowed me to break the Tork screws and single phillips screw with the stator still wired to the bike, because in this picture I'm only replacing the gasket, having already installed the new stator. You will need an impact wrench to break the phillips. Trust me, you need an impact wrench for this screw. You probably have already cut the wires on your bike so you can break these screws away from the bike.
You can see the three T30 Torx screws holding the stator down to the cover, and the #3 phillips screw holding the wire protector just left of 12 o'clock. With the impact wrench, CAREFULLY loosen then remove this screw. The three Torx screws should come out with some force but no drama. Keep your socket handle straight above and axially aligned with the screws, you should have no problems. With the old stator removed, casually spray carb or brake cleaner inside the cover and remove most of the oil and gunk. Then spray the gasket remover liberally all over the old gasket. On either low or high mileage bikes, this gasket seems to be welded to all covers. It's a real bitch to remove, but you want to do a REALLY good job and get every last remnant of gasket off the cover and mating surface on the engine.
After letting the remover sit 5-10 minutes, CAREFULLY use a razor or X-acto to remove gasket material, being careful not to gouge or knick the aluminum. Repeat this process as necessary to attain a smooth mating surface for the new gasket. Be patient, do good work.
After cleaning the mating surfaces, be sure to FLOOD and ADEQUATELY flush any remnant of gook gump or splooge this clean-up process has entailed. I personally went through 3 cans of brake cleaner. ENSURE you are working into a TOTALLY clean stator cover.
Install the new stator, using blue Loctite on both the Torx and #3 phillips. 7.2 lbs of torque on the Torx, snug to semi-tight on the phillips. The spec calls for 4.3 lbs, but I don't trust my Sears wrench that low. Apply red Hi-Temp ( 650˚ ) RTV silicone to the ribbed rubber connector that helps to seal the wires from the stator.
Place the dowel pins into the engine block and hang the new gasket off them in place. Carefully slide the stator cover with silicone'd wire cover into place, being careful not to pinch external wires or gasket.
Put shorter bolt into lowest hole, then insert the rest of the bolts and wire brackets. Torque to 103 inch pounds and LEAVE ALONE until 12 hours or more have passed. THEN start bike and check for leaks. You need to allow the silicone a chance to set-up ( un-cured silicone absorbs oil, weakening any bond ) before letting heat build up from normal use. While you wait for the silicone to cure, re-attach the wires and stow neatly inside the engine compartment. The 3 white wires are not circuit or phase-dependant, so just get the wires attached to the stock bundle and be done with it.
After silicone has cured, start the bike and allow it to reach 4 bars of temperature. Check for leaks. All being well, you can now enjoy roughly 80-90 watts EXTRA power for whatever heated clothing or farkles your heart desires.
NOTE: Do good work. Be patient. Some of these procedures are tedious at best. Take a deep breath and really strive to do excellent work. You won't regret it.
Good luck,
George Zelenz
3-15-2007
Think you can be a Long Distance player with a stock Stator? Think again.
See the dark color? The blackened charring? That ain't BBQ sauce folks, thats a near deceased stator in 20-50 oil. Not good.
So perhaps you bought one of the excellent Electrosport replacement stators. The following article will help you install a new stator and enjoy the benefits that ample power can bring. Big thanks to Warchild for showing me the ropes on this one.
Tools:
wire cutter/ stripper
Male/ Female .250 spade terminals ( not shown )
shrinkwrap/ solder/ etc
gasket remover
Impact wrench with #3 Phillips head
5mm Allen socket
T30 Torx socket
#3 Phillips screwdriver
X-acto knife or razor
Blue Loctite/ threadlocker
Pages 341 and 342 of the service manual may prove helpful as well.
Start this job by removing the left side dash panels, and the cowling as well. Just underneath the radiator fill cap find the regulator/ rectifier, and the grey connector with three white wires running into it.
You needn't disconnect this connector, as long as you took the ground off the battery. The 3 white wires you see here are headed down into the stator. Follow this wire down into the engine area, and find where it exits towards the stator connection. Stock, these 3 white wires run from connector to stator in one continuous shot. We will be cutting into this bundle and connecting the new stator wires into this bundle. We do this to continue enjoying the benefits of this stout and water-proof connector. Let us now consider WHERE we will cut into this stock bundle.
I basically cut into the stock bundle just outside the point where the stock bundle ( of 3 white wires ) exits the stator, making the cut to the right of the wire holder and the top stator cover bolt. From above the engine, pull this end up past the frame so you can attach male spade connectors. If you're doing this job, I assume you know how to wire properly. But for grins, lets go over the whole drill.
Strip and crimp a male spade to the stock stator wire coming from the grey connector. Solder this connection lightly, then shrink wrap the wire/ crimp connection. Also solder the female spade crimp that came with the stator. Insert male spade into female spade, then run another piece of shrink wrap OVER THE ENTIRE CONNECTION. You know have a tight spade connection backed up by the shrink. If this connector comes apart in use I'll eat my bike. Do this 3 times, and do it AFTER you have the new stator installed. Duh.
Ensure that you can get the loom back on OVER all these connections. Think ahead with this and you'll be fine.
With the 5mm allen socket, remove all the bolts from the stator cover. Note the location and orientation of the two wire brackets, and also note that the bottom bolt is shorter then the rest. With bolts removed, gently pull stator cover straight away from the bike. Be prepared to catch dripping oil with a stock pot or similar.
Since the stator is magnetic, you need to apply gentle but firm force to the cover. You'll be trying to overcome magnetic force. I used a stock pot with a stiff board covered by soft plastic from a storage container. This allowed me to break the Tork screws and single phillips screw with the stator still wired to the bike, because in this picture I'm only replacing the gasket, having already installed the new stator. You will need an impact wrench to break the phillips. Trust me, you need an impact wrench for this screw. You probably have already cut the wires on your bike so you can break these screws away from the bike.
You can see the three T30 Torx screws holding the stator down to the cover, and the #3 phillips screw holding the wire protector just left of 12 o'clock. With the impact wrench, CAREFULLY loosen then remove this screw. The three Torx screws should come out with some force but no drama. Keep your socket handle straight above and axially aligned with the screws, you should have no problems. With the old stator removed, casually spray carb or brake cleaner inside the cover and remove most of the oil and gunk. Then spray the gasket remover liberally all over the old gasket. On either low or high mileage bikes, this gasket seems to be welded to all covers. It's a real bitch to remove, but you want to do a REALLY good job and get every last remnant of gasket off the cover and mating surface on the engine.
After letting the remover sit 5-10 minutes, CAREFULLY use a razor or X-acto to remove gasket material, being careful not to gouge or knick the aluminum. Repeat this process as necessary to attain a smooth mating surface for the new gasket. Be patient, do good work.
After cleaning the mating surfaces, be sure to FLOOD and ADEQUATELY flush any remnant of gook gump or splooge this clean-up process has entailed. I personally went through 3 cans of brake cleaner. ENSURE you are working into a TOTALLY clean stator cover.
Install the new stator, using blue Loctite on both the Torx and #3 phillips. 7.2 lbs of torque on the Torx, snug to semi-tight on the phillips. The spec calls for 4.3 lbs, but I don't trust my Sears wrench that low. Apply red Hi-Temp ( 650˚ ) RTV silicone to the ribbed rubber connector that helps to seal the wires from the stator.
Place the dowel pins into the engine block and hang the new gasket off them in place. Carefully slide the stator cover with silicone'd wire cover into place, being careful not to pinch external wires or gasket.
Put shorter bolt into lowest hole, then insert the rest of the bolts and wire brackets. Torque to 103 inch pounds and LEAVE ALONE until 12 hours or more have passed. THEN start bike and check for leaks. You need to allow the silicone a chance to set-up ( un-cured silicone absorbs oil, weakening any bond ) before letting heat build up from normal use. While you wait for the silicone to cure, re-attach the wires and stow neatly inside the engine compartment. The 3 white wires are not circuit or phase-dependant, so just get the wires attached to the stock bundle and be done with it.
After silicone has cured, start the bike and allow it to reach 4 bars of temperature. Check for leaks. All being well, you can now enjoy roughly 80-90 watts EXTRA power for whatever heated clothing or farkles your heart desires.
NOTE: Do good work. Be patient. Some of these procedures are tedious at best. Take a deep breath and really strive to do excellent work. You won't regret it.
Good luck,
George Zelenz
3-15-2007
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