Supporting the front of bike
- Thread starter Steve G.
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
Toecutter
What would DoG do?
I have a rubber wheel chock that I sit atop a piece of 2 x 6 and it rests under the header pipes. I use a longer 2 x 4 to fulcrum the fork leg up, so I can place the chock/block without a second person to help. Be sure to loosen everything up before lifting the front end.
Niehart
Pie Smuggler
OM, that made me LOL! :yahoo:
More like:
Bustanut joker
Well-known member
Damn Michael... You let Scooter change your tires?
I dunno :no:
:jester:
I dunno :no:
:jester:
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
QUOTE (Steve G. @ May 7 2009, 06:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So I'm pulling the front wheel off tommorrow for the shop to spoon a new tire. There's alot of weight on the front of an FJ. What do you guys use to lift and support??
Steve
Wood.
(Click on image for larger view)
Bike on centre stand, drag wood under front tyre to tip bike back until rear wheel is touching the ground, push wood under headers (ensure even weight distribution), pull wood out from front tyre.
Easier with someone heavy to hold the back down, but there was no-one of that description around, and son's front paddock stand was not available to me at the time.
BTW, anyone know how to free a seized ABS sensor from its housing? I can undo the screw, but can't budge the sensor. Don't really want to hit it with a hammer. Could still get the wheel off, but more tricky with the sensor still on.
So I'm pulling the front wheel off tommorrow for the shop to spoon a new tire. There's alot of weight on the front of an FJ. What do you guys use to lift and support??
Steve
Wood.
(Click on image for larger view)
Bike on centre stand, drag wood under front tyre to tip bike back until rear wheel is touching the ground, push wood under headers (ensure even weight distribution), pull wood out from front tyre.
Easier with someone heavy to hold the back down, but there was no-one of that description around, and son's front paddock stand was not available to me at the time.
BTW, anyone know how to free a seized ABS sensor from its housing? I can undo the screw, but can't budge the sensor. Don't really want to hit it with a hammer. Could still get the wheel off, but more tricky with the sensor still on.
Last edited by a moderator:
madmike2
Shtirrenuppenmeister
You might try some penetrating oil and give it some time to work before GENTLY, with small movements, rotating (wiggling) the sensor. If you've ridden in much inclement weather or anyplace they've salted the roads the corrosion can build up in that "socket" the sensor fits into. Anti-sieze may be your friend at re-assembly.
____________________________________________
For removing the front wheel on my bike I put a short 2x4 on my floor jack and use it under the headers. If it's going to be left in that position for long I place jack stands under the forks (just in case). OTH, I have come out in the morning and found the floor jack collapsed and, luckily, the bike stable in a nose down posture. But I wasn't pleased with myself. :blink:
Last edited by a moderator:
nofreeride
Well-known member
DeweyIsgod
Well-known member
Pipe Stand - The idea was elsewhere on the forum, but it cost me all of $40 at Home Depot. It works very well for removing the rear since you have flexibility to move up and down when needed in the process.
Aasland
Depleted
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
QUOTE (madmike2 @ May 7 2009, 06:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
... If you've ridden in much inclement weather or anyplace they've salted the roads the corrosion can build up in that "socket" the sensor fits into. ...
Rain and salt might have something to do with it. I am in the UK, so fairly normal riding conditions.
If it does happen, you can still remove the wheel. You need to free the sensor's wire from its attachment points on the brake line, visible in these pictures. Ignore the grey wire, that's just supporting the brake caliper.
(click on image for larger view)
There is then just enough length to ease the sensor plate out with the wheel after withdrawing the axle. Just be careful not to put any strain on the wire.
... If you've ridden in much inclement weather or anyplace they've salted the roads the corrosion can build up in that "socket" the sensor fits into. ...
Rain and salt might have something to do with it. I am in the UK, so fairly normal riding conditions.
If it does happen, you can still remove the wheel. You need to free the sensor's wire from its attachment points on the brake line, visible in these pictures. Ignore the grey wire, that's just supporting the brake caliper.
(click on image for larger view)
There is then just enough length to ease the sensor plate out with the wheel after withdrawing the axle. Just be careful not to put any strain on the wire.
Last edited by a moderator:
BigOgre
Well-known member
1x6 under the center stand. Two eye hooks spaced just right into the rafters of the garage, then go with the straps (similar to the pipe-rack). Jack-stands under the tubes for the overnighter. And just for a touch of shade-tree, a big towel in the top-case with one softly placed cement block inside to help the front up.
ABS sensor took two good soakings of penetrating oil overnight and then some light turning with the grips.
ABS sensor took two good soakings of penetrating oil overnight and then some light turning with the grips.
zenwhipper
Well-known member
Two straps hanging from the rafter of the garage - connected around the forks as they entered the triple tree. Ratchet the front up with the back supported on the center stand. :clapping:
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
I put mine on the centerstand, then place a short piece of 2 x4 under the header (to spread the load) and lift slightly with a sissor(sp?) jack. Unlike a hydralic jack, it won't leak out over night and cause other problems. You can also easily turn the forks if needed without any binding and nothings in your way......
F
FJRAL
Guest
You just learn things all the time! I never, ever thought of using a scissor jack! Been pulling my own wheels for years! I used wood on my FJ1200 under the pipes, but, I heard or was told the pipes on the FJR are not that heavy duty. So on some board someone mentioned a little jigg with a 2X4 with two little uprights to hit the engine "tangs" (?) one by the oil drain hole, the other across on the other side. I made it, worked good! In CA doing the things with the front wheel up off the ground used to be something I wanted to get done in a hurry with the wheel up for as little time as possible. The damn ground in California has been known to move sometimes.
Similar threads
