The SW Motechs mount up pretty quick and easy, Tom, so install is not a problem. I'll be in touch with a price.
You can put my name down in pen, Ray.
You can put my name down in pen, Ray.
T-Rex Pending Group Buy - Bars and Sliders
- Thread starter RaYzerman19
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
OK, change me to a firm yes for rear bag guards. Already have T-Rex front sliders.
I'm interested in the EG and LG's, but have a question on the EG. There is something called a "SS" bar that attaches the left and right side, rear, of the engine guards. Any idea why this is designed like this.....just curious?...
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RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
It already exists on the bike, it is your rear engine mount, a long bolt that goes from one side to the other. All of these bar types have used this (Racing 905, Canyon Cages, T-Rex). It's good to have solid mounting points!
If im reading all this correctly the engine guards are gen 3 only - Correct ? Luggage is all gens and so are sliders
Luggage would be 144.95 - less 20% (assuming you get enough) + tax (Cali) and shipping - do i have that right too ?
Thanks for getting this started - i may be interested if i can get both EG and LG for 2012
Luggage would be 144.95 - less 20% (assuming you get enough) + tax (Cali) and shipping - do i have that right too ?
Thanks for getting this started - i may be interested if i can get both EG and LG for 2012
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Gotcha....is it replaced then with the T-Rex SS bar? Or do you use the one already on the FJR? I'm really liking the protection, just trying to figure out how to get these installed...
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
I think you got it. The group buy will be parts minus the appropriate discount... I don't know about taxes for Cali (I'm Canadian, EH!)... plus shipping.
Regarding EG, they are only for 2013+, anything earlier will have to use their sliders or ??. The Luggage guards will fit 2006+. Sliders are specific to each Gen. Best check their website for what you would like.
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
snikr
Well-known member
Tom - PM sent
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
Ok folks, it's been a fun time, a little work and some unexpected twists and turns, but it's now time to place orders. I posted up instructions in the Group Buy thread, if you could please follow that format, it will make it easier for Freddy G at T-Rex to focus on your orders. For those undecided, this is your opportunity to take advantage of 25% off. No rush, you got some time left........ Even if you were not on our list, jump in if you want to place an order, but do let me know as I am still keeping a master list in case issues arise.
Thanks for all the comments, guys, but I just saw an opportunity as more interest in the T-Rex stuff was growing, and it all worked out. 25 customers, the majority want the rear luggage guards, about half want the engine guards as well. A handful want some sliders....... all good, the numbers helped seal the deal. Thanks for participating!!
Thanks for all the comments, guys, but I just saw an opportunity as more interest in the T-Rex stuff was growing, and it all worked out. 25 customers, the majority want the rear luggage guards, about half want the engine guards as well. A handful want some sliders....... all good, the numbers helped seal the deal. Thanks for participating!!
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snikr
Well-known member
Does anyone that has installed the T-Rex engine guards also have Wild Bill or MC Larry Highway Pegs installed? My T-Rex guards are due to arrive tomorrow and it suddenly occurred to me that they may not be compatible with the MC Larry pegs I have on it now.
If nobody already know, I guess I'll find out soon enough.
If nobody already know, I guess I'll find out soon enough.
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Me again, back to answer my own damn question. The answer is:
NO, the T-Rex Engine guards are not compatible with MCL or Wild Bill highway pegs.
Bummer... now I have some highway pegs to sell.
Received my T-Rex Engine Guards and Luggage Guards via FedEx ground shipping yesterday. They look just as good in person as they do on the web site. Of course I was like a kid on Christmas morning and had to run down to the unseasonably warm garage ind install them.
A few helpful notes on the installation:
The instructions are pretty weak, but the process is not all that complicated.
The engine guards came partly assembled with the brackets pre-mounted to the guard bars. You will need to remove the brackets from the guard bar to slip it behind the faring surface. The flat bracket will easily slip in behind your lower faring, and you can install the appropriate spacer and the big 12mm bolt that replaces the stock engine mount bolt loosely (snug but not tight). The longer bolt and thickest spacer are on the left side. The shorter bolt and thinnest spacer on the right. (The medium thickness spacer goes on the right side of the long threaded rod at the back engine mount)
Before mounting either of the engine guard bars to the (now) mounted flat brackets you will want to remove the long rear engine mount bolt to make room for the back end of the bar. It doesn't mention that in the instructions. Then install the left side bar loosely so you can line up the rear mounting and insert the long threaded rod through the rear engine mount holes. The long rod has nylock nuts on both ends, and one end the nut is threaded all the way on. You'll want that end to be on the left side (where it is harder to get at). After you get the long rod threaded through all the way you can tighten all the left side mounting bolts up and torque the front engine mount bolt.
The M10 x 20 bolts that hold the guard to the bracket are located behind the tubular bars, so you can't really get a socket and torque wrench on them. The instructions say 30 ft-lbs, but I had to use a regular "L" shaped Allen wrench to tighten them, so the actual spec is "Gud 'n Tight". You should probably use locktite on these bolts.
Although the T-Rex instructions say to use medium Loctite on all fasteners, the engine mount bolts do not call for Loctite in the FSM, so I did not use any. The torque spec is 35 ft-lb (dry) for the front M12 bolts and 32 ft-lb (oiled) for the rear M10 mount. With the nylock nuts on the replacement threaded rod I did not use any oil or loctite.
The rear luggage guard mounts had no instructions at all, but they are intuitive to install. The torque spec for those bolts are 20 ft-lb with Loctite. The muffler mounting bolt I could not find the spec for, so just went with Gud'nTight with no loctite.
They look great, IMO, and should be very protective in the event of a dropsy.
NO, the T-Rex Engine guards are not compatible with MCL or Wild Bill highway pegs.
Bummer... now I have some highway pegs to sell.
Received my T-Rex Engine Guards and Luggage Guards via FedEx ground shipping yesterday. They look just as good in person as they do on the web site. Of course I was like a kid on Christmas morning and had to run down to the unseasonably warm garage ind install them.
A few helpful notes on the installation:
The instructions are pretty weak, but the process is not all that complicated.
The engine guards came partly assembled with the brackets pre-mounted to the guard bars. You will need to remove the brackets from the guard bar to slip it behind the faring surface. The flat bracket will easily slip in behind your lower faring, and you can install the appropriate spacer and the big 12mm bolt that replaces the stock engine mount bolt loosely (snug but not tight). The longer bolt and thickest spacer are on the left side. The shorter bolt and thinnest spacer on the right. (The medium thickness spacer goes on the right side of the long threaded rod at the back engine mount)
Before mounting either of the engine guard bars to the (now) mounted flat brackets you will want to remove the long rear engine mount bolt to make room for the back end of the bar. It doesn't mention that in the instructions. Then install the left side bar loosely so you can line up the rear mounting and insert the long threaded rod through the rear engine mount holes. The long rod has nylock nuts on both ends, and one end the nut is threaded all the way on. You'll want that end to be on the left side (where it is harder to get at). After you get the long rod threaded through all the way you can tighten all the left side mounting bolts up and torque the front engine mount bolt.
The M10 x 20 bolts that hold the guard to the bracket are located behind the tubular bars, so you can't really get a socket and torque wrench on them. The instructions say 30 ft-lbs, but I had to use a regular "L" shaped Allen wrench to tighten them, so the actual spec is "Gud 'n Tight". You should probably use locktite on these bolts.
Although the T-Rex instructions say to use medium Loctite on all fasteners, the engine mount bolts do not call for Loctite in the FSM, so I did not use any. The torque spec is 35 ft-lb (dry) for the front M12 bolts and 32 ft-lb (oiled) for the rear M10 mount. With the nylock nuts on the replacement threaded rod I did not use any oil or loctite.
The rear luggage guard mounts had no instructions at all, but they are intuitive to install. The torque spec for those bolts are 20 ft-lb with Loctite. The muffler mounting bolt I could not find the spec for, so just went with Gud'nTight with no loctite.
They look great, IMO, and should be very protective in the event of a dropsy.
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ndivita
Well-known member
I just had these identical guards installed on my 2014 with the exception that I opted for the all black frame protector pucks. They look great.Me again, back to answer my own damn question. The answer is:NO, the T-Rex Engine guards are not compatible with MCL or Wild Bill highway pegs.
Bummer... now I have some highway pegs to sell.
Received my T-Rex Engine Guards and Luggage Guards via FedEx ground shipping yesterday. They look just as good in person as they do on the web site. Of course I was like a kid on Christmas morning and had to run down to the unseasonably warm garage ind install them.
A few helpful notes on the installation:
The instructions are pretty weak, but the process is not all that complicated.
The engine guards came partly assembled with the brackets pre-mounted to the guard bars. You will need to remove the brackets from the guard bar to slip it behind the faring surface. The flat bracket will easily slip in behind your lower faring, and you can install the appropriate spacer and the big 12mm bolt that replaces the stock engine mount bolt loosely (snug but not tight). The longer bolt and thickest spacer are on the left side. The shorter bolt and thinnest spacer on the right. (The medium thickness spacer goes on the right side of the long threaded rod at the back engine mount)
Before mounting either of the engine guard bars to the (now) mounted flat brackets you will want to remove the long rear engine mount bolt to make room for the back end of the bar. It doesn't mention that in the instructions. Then install the left side bar loosely so you can line up the rear mounting and insert the long threaded rod through the rear engine mount holes. The long rod has nylock nuts on both ends, and one end the nut is threaded all the way on. You'll want that end to be on the left side (where it is harder to get at). After you get the long rod threaded through all the way you can tighten all the left side mounting bolts up and torque the front engine mount bolt.
The M10 x 20 bolts that hold the guard to the bracket are located behind the tubular bars, so you can't really get a socket and torque wrench on them. The instructions say 30 ft-lbs, but I had to use a regular "L" shaped Allen wrench to tighten them, so the actual spec is "Gud 'n Tight". You should probably use locktite on these bolts.
Although the T-Rex instructions say to use medium Loctite on all fasteners, the engine mount bolts do not call for Loctite in the FSM, so I did not use any. The torque spec is 35 ft-lb (dry) for the front M12 bolts and 32 ft-lb (oiled) for the rear M10 mount. With the nylock nuts on the replacement threaded rod I did not use any oil or loctite.
The rear luggage guard mounts had no instructions at all, but they are intuitive to install. The torque spec for those bolts are 20 ft-lb with Loctite. The muffler mounting bolt I could not find the spec for, so just went with Gud'nTight with no loctite.
They look great, IMO, and should be very protective in the event of a dropsy.
I figured having a superior pink bike I could get away with the same colored sliders.
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Know that I had to be one of the last in on this group buy as I placed my order on 1-31.
Fed-Ex arrived today.
Big thanks to
RaYzerman19and Freddy at T-Rex for making this a great deal
Fed-Ex arrived today.
Big thanks to
RaYzerman19and Freddy at T-Rex for making this a great deal
