Thread spin off about possible change to Rotella Diesel Oil

[charismaticmegafauna]

WOW...! Oil Analysis...!

Thanks for posting 'black cherry'.

Oil analysis is the best way to know what's going-on inside your engine. And, a record of many analyses, over time, will provide much info on engine health, lube-oil effectiveness, and probable engine (and oil) longevity -- as well as reporting unusual events (if any).

Nice to see the facts....

 

[radman]

What hasn't been mentioned much (if at all) is the geartrain. The tranny is the major reason I add the EOS. Gears like high pressure additives-especially clutch dogs. That there is a reduction of cam lobe wear is just a extra for me-and those of you with miles on your motors, take a close look at the cam lobes next time you do an adjustment. Polish-good. Flaking, pitting-BAD, and indicative of oil film failure.

 

[Auburn]

What hasn't been mentioned much (if at all) is the geartrain. The tranny is the major reason I add the EOS. Gears like high pressure additives-especially clutch dogs. That there is a reduction of cam lobe wear is just a extra for me-and those of you with miles on your motors, take a close look at the cam lobes next time you do an adjustment. Polish-good. Flaking, pitting-BAD, and indicative of oil film failure.

Somewhere on one of the many old oil threads, I remember someone suggesting to add a little ( 8 oz.) of STP. Can't remember why, but I think it was for the tranny. Maybe someone else can remember.

I have been doing that with my syn Rotella for about 10000 miles and have noticed immediately, that it did shift much smoother, no clutch slippage under heavy loads.

 

[USPS Bike-Nut]

OK--it's Friday. What sucks from Shimano? BTW, we're still on topic here b/c shimano components use oil.

Two words "bio pace"

Bio-Pace...

Thats frickin' funny!!!

I remember those crappy cranks....

Just try to "spin" with those "eggs"... :crazy:

 

[HaulinAshe]

I can appreciate all the statistical data offered in this thread.

In recent months, we've seen a noticeable increase in valve guide and cam wear from race engines running conventional Rotella-T as compared to both the typical history of those riders/engines, and the same type engines running synthetic Rotella-T. Whether or not that's due to more synthetic Rotella-T being "old stock" or not, I cannot say.

But at this point, I'm glad I've stuck with my old dirt habits and stayed with Rotella-T Synthetic, rather than conventional. As race engine mechanics, we get sometimes get to see things happen early, because we are tearing the same engines regularly and measuring for small changes.

At 75,000 miles, my '07 FJR had polished cam lobes, zero scoring on the buckets, and you could still read all the valve shim labels like the day they were made. The cam chain was absolutely like new, the CCT was clean and fully functional, compression was within 10 lbs. across all four cylinders. I have no idea what condition the CatC is in, and frankly could care less until it becomes a problem child and requires amputation. I call that a healthy engine and it has never seen anything but Rotella-T Synthetic from 18.5 miles on the odo.

But you can bet I'm going to keep my "ear to the ground" for what Shell and others may be doing to our beloved lubrications.



Thanks to everyone for the heads-up and suggestions.

 

[johnny80s]

I have been following this tread for a while and I have one question.

Did we decide anything? I'm lost again. Yay or Nay on the Rotella Dino?

El Grande this is your thread, ayuda me!

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

I have been following this tread for a while and I have one question.
Did we decide anything? I'm lost again. Yay or Nay on the Rotella Dino?

El Grande this is your thread, ayuda me!

I never used the stuff, but I was curious. h34r:

So far some will use it and say screw it; some say synthetic only; some say use synthetic with additives; some say synthetic without additives; some say Dino with additives; some say Dino without additives; some say even with the new formulation it is better than Yamalube; some are confused. Oh yeah, one guy is running the IBR and will research it more when he gets time --

Bottom line: most don't think your engine will blow up if you use it. In other words, it is like most oil threads: a case of religion. I predict somebody will contradict this post or add a bunch of confusing details.

You are on your own el presidente!

 

[johnny80s]

I will keep using rotella dino and the walmart filter.

Thanks el Grande.

 

[FJRBluesman]

I will keep using rotella dino and the walmart filter.Thanks el Grande.

That sounds like a recipe for disaster.
I use the same.

 

[WWWobble]

Bottom line: most don't think your engine will blow up if you use it. In other words, it is like most oil threads: a case of religion. I predict somebody will contradict this post or add a bunch of confusing details.

You are on your own el presidente!

Let's Agree

1. Any oil is better than No oil

2. Clean oil is better than dirty oil

Then,

1. If you drive a diesel, use diesel oil

2. If you ride a motorcycle use motorcycle oil

3. If you drive a diesel and use m/c oil will it be ok. I dunno. Who would?

4. If you ride a m/c and use diesel oil will it be ok. I dunno, but guys that do it seem happy

5. Has anybody in this discussion ever experienced engine or component failure due to lubrication failure?

WWWobble

 

[johnny80s]

I don't agree.

 

[caryt]

FYI if Rotella can withstand over the 3000 psi thats the power stroke HPOP subjects it to and not shear or cause any problems then its safe for our little oil system in the FJR..what a waste of time...this is a mine bigger than yours type of discussion

 

[WWWobble]

I don't agree.

OK. I'm good with that.

It's Friday!!!

www

 

[johnny80s]

FYI if Rotella can withstand over the 3000 psi thats the power stroke HPOP subjects it to and not shear or cause any problems then its safe for our little oil system in the FJR..what a waste of time...this is a mine bigger than yours type of discussion

We never did figure out whose was bigger but they don't call Shiney "el Grande" for nothing. B)

 

[FLOWBACK]

Where is Jestal when we need him?

Pouting, I think. Still. Besides, with the info above, and his dissertation in the Bin-O-Facts, what more can be said?

So how much is a 16oz bottle of EOS going for?? Available at the local chevy dealer?

About $9 a bottle at most GM dealers. You might be able to get it a little cheaper, but IIRC not a lot of wiggle room on cost of the stuff. Cam manufacturers have more or less the same thing, but it's usually even more.

Just bought a bottle of E.O.S. at the Chevy dealer in Grand Junction, Co. 16 oz. bottle was 23.54 + tax.

It also has a new part # it is: 88862586. I buy my oil filters from them for the Z06 cheap as shit. Did I get ripped of on the E.O.S.?

If you guys are still buying it for $9.00 I'll go pour the shit in their coffee. :crazy:

 

[ShinyPartsUp]

Where is Jestal when we need him?

Pouting, I think. Still. Besides, with the info above, and his dissertation in the Bin-O-Facts, what more can be said?

So how much is a 16oz bottle of EOS going for?? Available at the local chevy dealer?

About $9 a bottle at most GM dealers. You might be able to get it a little cheaper, but IIRC not a lot of wiggle room on cost of the stuff. Cam manufacturers have more or less the same thing, but it's usually even more.

Just bought a bottle of E.O.S. at the Chevy dealer in Grand Junction, Co. 16 oz. bottle was 23.54 + tax.

It also has a new part # it is: 88862586. I buy my oil filters from them for the Z06 cheap as shit. Did I get ripped of on the E.O.S.?

If you guys are still buying it for $9.00 I'll go pour the shit in their coffee. :crazy:

Let's see. You buy oil you feel is inadequate (or you wouldn't put additives in it). Then spend $23.54 to make it adequate for the application.

Logically, why not spend somewhere around the same amount for an oil you feel IS adequate for the application?

:dntknw: :crazy:

 

[Bearly Flying]

SkooterG, are you using the Rotella T synthetic in the blue bottle, or the Rotella T dino in the white bottle?

Obviously the Blue Bottle......... It stands up better......

 

[Geezer]

FWIW, I just bought two gallons of Rotella at my local Advanced Auto for $10 a jug.

Edit: At that price, obviously it is the dino oil.

 

[FLOWBACK]

Where is Jestal when we need him?

Pouting, I think. Still. Besides, with the info above, and his dissertation in the Bin-O-Facts, what more can be said?

So how much is a 16oz bottle of EOS going for?? Available at the local chevy dealer?

About $9 a bottle at most GM dealers. You might be able to get it a little cheaper, but IIRC not a lot of wiggle room on cost of the stuff. Cam manufacturers have more or less the same thing, but it's usually even more.

Just bought a bottle of E.O.S. at the Chevy dealer in Grand Junction, Co. 16 oz. bottle was 23.54 + tax.

It also has a new part # it is: 88862586. I buy my oil filters from them for the Z06 cheap as shit. Did I get ripped of on the E.O.S.?

If you guys are still buying it for $9.00 I'll go pour the shit in their coffee. :crazy:

Let's see. You buy oil you feel is inadequate (or you wouldn't put additives in it). Then spend $23.54 to make it adequate for the application.

Logically, why not spend somewhere around the same amount for an oil you feel IS adequate for the application?

:dntknw: :crazy:

Don't assume I buy the oil that goes in the bike. :stop: And no matter what oil I pour in, I would add the E.O.S. :finger:

 

[SnowAviation]

It's funny, there are volumes of data on motor oil, hundreds of threads on Motorcycle

Forums on the topic, thousands of opinions, and no consensus after all these years.

I think I'll go read a tire thread.