What outcome will these exhaust and air options bring?

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Cowcop

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After todays ride, I tought I would ask this forum what they think the following additions may do to the overall performance of my GenII....

1) Power Commander V

2) Two Brothers slip ons

3) Performance Air Filter

My thoughts were to have at least three maps from the PC.....

1) Economy

2) Cruise & Two Up

3) Performance

....and hopefully have a switch to toggle between maps.

The other half of my brain today said....."How much money are you going to spend and to what end?" I guess this means that if I spend the big coin for these toys, what can I expect for enhanced performance? It is fortunate that I am an old fart, and do realize that I have great performance now, and I will not pull the trigger unless the expected bang (for the buck) is substantial.

 
After todays ride, I tought I would ask this forum what they think the following additions may do to the overall performance of my GenII....

1) Power Commander V

2) Two Brothers slip ons

3) Performance Air Filter

My thoughts were to have at least three maps from the PC.....

1) Economy

2) Cruise & Two Up

3) Performance

....and hopefully have a switch to toggle between maps.

The other half of my brain today said....."How much money are you going to spend and to what end?" I guess this means that if I spend the big coin for these toys, what can I expect for enhanced performance? It is fortunate that I am an old fart, and do realize that I have great performance now, and I will not pull the trigger unless the expected bang (for the buck) is substantial.
It will be smoother - less jerky throttle response

It will be louder - not my cup of tea

It will burn more fuel

It might yield a couple of HP, but don't expect it to pull your arms out of the sockets

Bike is pretty good right out of the box.

IMHO

Ross

 
Cowcop

In my mind, if you are going to spend some serious coin on the bike, you will get the most bang for the buck on suspension upgrades. You will notice them every time you ride.

If you went the performance route, the exhaust note will be louder. You may have a couple more ponies, but will not notice them every time you ride. And the smoothness may or may not be there. There are other inexpensive ways to tame the throttle response.

I have found that the bike already has the same 3 maps virtually dialed into the system...

1)
Economy
- Don't go so fast. The more air you push away per minute the more gas you burn. My best fuel milage was traveling the older US highways at posted speed limits (55-60) enjoying the country side. I got 54 MPG on several occasions, surprised the hell out of me.











2)
Cruise & Two Up
- Plenty of power on tap. Be in the right gear to maximize the grunt this bike offers.








3)
Performance
- You want performance, drop your windshield, hunch down and use some body english to get you through the turns. Put some sticky tires on the beast and leave the luggage behind in the garage. Remember, this bikes redlines around 9K, how often have you been up there?








Of course that's just my humble opinion.
tongue.gif


Brodie

 
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Sigh....You folks sound just like my own research results or worse yet, like 'management'! I was hoping that something was amiss in my research, but your comments indicate that several hundred dollars spent will NOT give extraordinary results.

Fortunately there are still enough farkles to have fun with and YES, I see 8000 rpm plus on numerous occasions, including today. Heck, that's what started this thought process! :yahoo:

 
Suspension without the proper tire upgrades will only get you a face full of guard rail or a case of bad road rash.

 
Suspension is in the future although 'both ends' had not been considered, just the main. More to research.

As to tire upgrades,,,,I WILL NOT start a tire thread....lol. I trashed the OEM Bridgestones in 8700kms and am now running PR2's. Thinking about trying a Pirelli derivative next...maybe..

 
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<snip>

As to tire upgrades,,,,I WILL NOT start a tire thread....lol. I trashed the OEM Bridgestones in 8700kms and am now running PR2's. Thinking about trying a Pirelli derivative next...maybe..
Since you did bring up tires...

You my want to think about the darkside. My buddy brian swears by it, says he has the hot set up. He ran his Michelin/Bridgestone combination hard on his way up to WFO 2 months back. Just looking at the front tire you'd swear he burned it out on the race track, he ground the edges right off. Right now he's commuting to wear the center before replacement. To look at his rear tire you would never know it has close to 7k on it.

Check it out...

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=112537&view=findpost&p=776816

Brian's tires
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=112537&view=findpost&p=776816

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=130946&view=findpost&p=766870

Brian's test run with Fairlaner
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=130946&view=findpost&p=766870
I've run my rear Bridgestone - not as hard for around 10k and never got it to slip. It's still good for another 20k.

Check into it...

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=124275&view=findpost&p=676036

Darkside FAQ
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=124275&view=findpost&p=676036

smile.gif


Brodie

 
I would definitely get the PCV and run the map from FuelMoto, which will not affect fuel economy (or so slight you won't notice). Much smoother power delivery and fixes a lot of surging and hesitation issues, although great, not perfect unless you run a richer map. Spend the other money on suspension...... my 2 cents.

 
Thanks to all who replied.

I have installed (last fall) a fuel management device called TFI. It seems to be weather sensitive :angry2: and adjusts like a carb with three dials. After some trials I have a smooth and powerful delivery of fuel :yahoo: but fuel mileage is suffering. :eek: If I do not get this calmed down, a PCV is likely next spring.

I was hoping that the complete package would increase HP considerably and other maps could be toggled for different purposes such as MPG etc. :assassin: ...but alas...

My first experiment is only partly successful, but who knows what my next experiment will bring! :cowboy:

 
i just installed 2 bros cf m5s on my 04.no hp increase that i can feel,just sounds better,more like a crotch rocket,it killed my gas milage,mainly because im ridding it harder cause it sounds so cool.unless you get a good deal on a used set or have money to burn i wouldnt do it.

 
The FJR, as delivered is very lean to meet EPA requirements. Anything you do to it to "make improvements" typically makes it run richer (smoother, marginally more powerful). All those will make MPG suffer. I suspect anything that improves MPG will make it dangerously lean.

Just adding intake and exhaust mods (full header and not just slip ons) without remapping the EFI will, most likely, make it run leaner (not good for motor longevity). If you change those items, do 'em as a set (in and out) so the "air pump" (motor) remains balanced, then high thee to a trusted dyno to get a proper tune.

In the end, such investments into the FJR will gain you (usually) single digit improvements in HP (or maaaaybe into the lower teens). That's because, as much as us garage mechanics might think otherwise, those high-paid Yamaha engineers kinda know what they are doing and wring the most out of the motor shy of rebuild-after-every-run levels of race performances.

Like others have said, dollar-for-dollar investing in the suspension will give a better return for your money by letting you put the existing power to the ground better.

 
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The FJR, as delivered is very lean to meet EPA requirements. Anything you do to it to "make improvements" typically makes it run richer (smoother, marginally more powerful). All those will make MPG suffer. I suspect anything that improves MPG will make it dangerously lean.
Any proof/documentation? I don't believe there is a dangerously lean -- only driveability issues (too lean and you'll notice flat spots in acceleration, hesitation, etc.)

Just adding intake and exhaust mods (full header and not just slip ons) without remapping the EFI will, most likely, make it run leaner (not good for motor longevity).
Again, I don't think that's true -- since EPA/emissions rules have been in place, we've gotten the most durable/longest-lived engines ever.

If you change those items, do 'em as a set (in and out) so the "air pump" (motor) remains balanced, then high thee to a trusted dyno to get a proper tune.
That has merit.

In the end, such investments into the FJR will gain you (usually) single digit improvements in HP (or maaaaybe into the lower teens). That's because, as much as us garage mechanics might think otherwise, those high-paid Yamaha engineers kinda know what they are doing and wring the most out of the motor shy of rebuild-after-every-run levels of race performances.
Agreed -- Yamaha didn't (purposely) leave anything on the table.

You may be able to extract a few more HP? -- but, it probably won't meet legal standards (most obvious would be noise standards -- next, would be emissions). :unsure:

 
I would say without seeing a dyno that the FJR is set lean on idle and lower throttle positions with the exception of the warm up loop. I would also bet that it goes pig rich on higher throttle positions and WOT. All of the bikes I have ridden in the last 10 years are set that way. The LT would spew black at WOT for sure. A dyno and a PC is the way to dial in your bike at those conditions. I do not think the engineers have left a lot on the table at all in the FJR. I have seen 5-11 hp on various mods quoted on the FJR. When you see modest increases in what I consider stage I mods, or stage II with the PCV, you know there is not a lot there to get.

That said I did find a good price on a set of as new M2 and I did install a PCV. I also did my suspension. If it would have been a choice I would have went suspension.

Always remember when you get to the top of the engineered horsepower of a motor, you pay very dearly for any HP gains. I mean this is just a big air pump. To change it from there it is head/valve work, cams, and higher compression through piston size and design domed or semi-domed. Larger injectors, and a way to control the timing, injector pulse width, and mixture. If I have to go through all that I would go back to a Harley.

 
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