BuilderBob
Well-known member
Just returned from a 1,500 mile trip to Asheville and back (did the "dragon" again) and the CC performed flawlessly. I'm a happy camper! 
Audiovox Cruise Control-Problem Solved?
- Thread starter rfulcher
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
iCruze
Well-known member
Anyone with AVCC install experience coming to Fairbanks after CFO? If so....I just got one for my birthday and my confidence was high at first but after reading all these threads it looks like I might need to start bribing with beer and food for some assistance.
Big Shasta
Well-known member
I would just be extremely grateful if one of the experienced guys would take the original install thread and the changes found here and take some pictures and make one straightforward install thread showing the correct install.
I'm a little confused as to what to follow. Do the original install as per the other thread and then try and incorporate the changes found here? or is there a comprehensive install thread that is now correct with the "learning curves"?
I'm a little confused as to what to follow. Do the original install as per the other thread and then try and incorporate the changes found here? or is there a comprehensive install thread that is now correct with the "learning curves"?
The only important "change" is dip switch #7. Everything else is pretty much as shown in the original install procedures.
Patriot
Isabella is Lazarus
ahhhhhh, what speed did you set it to do the dragon ??? :dribble:Just returned from a 1,500 mile trip to Asheville and back (did the "dragon" again) and the CC performed flawlessly. I'm a happy camper!
isuace
Well-known member
In order to avoid creating yet another cruise control thread, I figured I'd just ask here. I am planning on tapping into the orange wire near the ECU as outlined earlier in this thread with a posi-lock. What size posi-lock do I need to get? Posi-lock sizes Also, if a posi-lock is suitable for that connection, can they be used for the purple and red wire connections as well? Seems like that would simplify the install a bit.
TIA
TIA
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iCruze
Well-known member
I used a posi-tap on all of the wires that needed to tap into factory wires except for the tach signal I just got a twin prong connector. I think the size 18-22 gauge.
Zorlac
Well-known member
I soldered mine, those insulation displacement connectors look sketchy at best to me.
JMHO.
JMHO.
isuace
Well-known member
Thanks for the info on the posi-tap. What do you mean by "twin prong connector" though?
I'm still considering doing that for the red and purple, but my soldering skills are pretty terrible and I don't really want to try it anywhere near the ECU or anything else remotely expensive/sensitive/delicate.
iCruze
Well-known member
isuace sorry didnt see this before it is a adapter for solderless connector it is basically a female plug with two male plugs on the end that way there was no splicing needed just plugged both females into the one fitting if you dont have it figured out let me know and I will take pics and send them your way. I would also like to thank everyone who posted how-to's between them all I was able to succesfully install my AVCC it is awesome.
iCruze
Well-known member
Found a pic of the connector I was talking about. I threw one of these on the wire coming from the servo motor that ties into the tach sensor works lima charlie
TahoeBound
Well-known member
"...and setting the #7 DIP switch to OFF are the most important changes. "
Oh my goodness! Hours & hours of AVCC research and many months of struggle and THAT is the solution?!! Funny, I stumbled on this thread yesterday looking for a vacuum gauge tester! Apparently not needed.
"Heat, time, distance, and hills are what you need for a complete test."
I thought zombies had invaded my head and I was unwillingly to believe those were the "real" symptoms. Everything would work perfect...for about 45 minutes!
After the dip switch fix & 50 mile test today, all is good, though not ready to declare victory just yet. The one negative is it doesn't seem to "set" as smoothly and I'm noticing as much as +3/-5 variations from previously +3/-3. That is a small sacrifice if the thing never "drops." I would be elated :yahoo: Kudos to Mr. Fulcher.
Oh my goodness! Hours & hours of AVCC research and many months of struggle and THAT is the solution?!! Funny, I stumbled on this thread yesterday looking for a vacuum gauge tester! Apparently not needed.
"Heat, time, distance, and hills are what you need for a complete test."
I thought zombies had invaded my head and I was unwillingly to believe those were the "real" symptoms. Everything would work perfect...for about 45 minutes!
After the dip switch fix & 50 mile test today, all is good, though not ready to declare victory just yet. The one negative is it doesn't seem to "set" as smoothly and I'm noticing as much as +3/-5 variations from previously +3/-3. That is a small sacrifice if the thing never "drops." I would be elated :yahoo: Kudos to Mr. Fulcher.
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bmwhd
Well-known member
Trust us, that is the fix. My Gen II hasn't dropped out of cruise once since I made that change.
I don't see that much speed variation so it might indicate a small vacuum leak or insufficient vacuum reservoir capacity.
TahoeBound
Well-known member
Victory claimed :yahoo:
A 100 mile & 200 mile ride, heat & mountains, not a single drop! AND I've simplified my intake into my vacuum reservoir from 4 back down to 1 and no problems at all. I also found with more careful application of throttle during set & resumes, the discrepancy is usually +- 2 (instead of 3-5).
Thank-you, thank-you, thank-you :clapping:
A 100 mile & 200 mile ride, heat & mountains, not a single drop! AND I've simplified my intake into my vacuum reservoir from 4 back down to 1 and no problems at all. I also found with more careful application of throttle during set & resumes, the discrepancy is usually +- 2 (instead of 3-5).
Thank-you, thank-you, thank-you :clapping:
rfulcher
Well-known member
johnny80s
Turtle Gears
TahoeBound
Well-known member
Sure. Instead of dumping the throttle (essentially letting go) immediately after pushing set or resume, I maintained a steady hand & speed for a second or two or three. Now instead of my speed dropping 3 to 5 mph from initial set position and then returning, it now fluctuates usually in the minus (-) 0-2 mph before settling in at the initial set position. At the time of my erratic throttle I also noticed the occasional accelerate (+) too, though that was usually much less dramatic and much less annoying.
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Zorlac
Well-known member
I dunno, but mine just kicks in when I hit set, just like a car.
Whatever works.
Whatever works.
Some audiovox installations seem more sensitive than others. What I do to minimize speed variation when activating the cruise control:
1. Adjust the throttle for the speed I want to set, and push SET.
2. While continuing to hold speed steady with my throttle hand, push and hold RESUME.
3. Immediately release the RESUME button when I feel the servo begin to take up the tension on the throttle. This takes about 3 to 4 seconds.
It sounds more complicated than it is. I just do it automatically now.
This results in zero change in bike speed while engaging the cruise control, a useful technique when you are on a busy highway.
TahoeBound
Well-known member
Mine is close. But apparently not as sensitive as yours; after all mine IS the Prunieville version
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