escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Thanks Tony. I imagine there were a few "eyes" staring back at you at night!Fraser Canyon isn't as nice at night…Nice pictures G !
You're welcome UK!
Good to hear from you henwil.
--G
Bella Coola & Hyder
- Thread starter escapefjrtist
- Start date
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--G
FastJoyRide
Well-known member
Great RR so far Mr. MasterPlugger. Despite being even closer to it than you are, I've not done this ride - yet. Very glad to hear that the Tenere turned out to be such a good tool for this project!
Fontanaman
Robin Trower
Great trip report --G. You are a master of understatement.... "I’ve wanted (needed) a GSA forever but the initial buy in and ongoing maintenance costs have always given me pause."
"No guard rails and switchbacks that double back on themselves all while dealing with up to 18% grades." is just another day in BC....
"No guard rails and switchbacks that double back on themselves all while dealing with up to 18% grades." is just another day in BC....
Hudson
Well-known member
Good stuff, George. Keep it coming...I am riding vicariously through you this summer!
beemerdons
Certifiable Old Fart
MCRIDER007
Well-known member
This was actually my second time of riding "the Hill". The first time was in 2005 and I was riding a DL1000. That was quite an adventure after reading about "the Hill" in numerous magazines and how difficult it can be in rainy conditions. This time I knew what was coming, was riding a much better off pavement bike and the road seemed to be in better condition (probably was the same), the grades didn't seem to be quite as steep, and the hairpin curves didn't seem to be quite as sharp. I also had a different role, the first time I was the leader, this time my role was to follow George at a safe distance so I could mark the spot if he slid out and went over the side. That would be the only way the recovery team would have a chance of finding him.
Since this is a FJR forum the standard question is "Could I do the hill on a FJR"? Sure....several already have and it would be much easier to do it going uphill but riding a FJR downhill is also very doable in dry conditions. I'm not sure I would want to ride downhill in a heavy rain if mud was caking on the tires.
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Fontanaman
Robin Trower
Gee Steve it is good to know you were looking out for George.I also had a different role, the first time I was the leader, this time my role was to follow George at a safe distance so I could mark the spot if he slid out and went over the side. That would be the only way the recovery team would have a chance of finding him.
escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Nice to know my riding partner was looking out for me...
Seriously, "The Hill" was not a big deal and the slopes sure didn't seem as steep as advertised. OTOH, there wasn't a lot to stop you if things got out of hand!
Thanks for all the comments y'all. Working on the next piece...
--G
Thanks for all the comments y'all. Working on the next piece...
--G
escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
After traveling Heckman Pass and "The Hill", I didn’t know what to expect in Bella Coola. Several small communities lined the valley and looked like very nice vacation hideaways. Hagensborg has some unique history and appeared to be thriving with tourism.
The valley road was tree lined as far as you could see.
After checking into the Bella Coola Valley Inn, we took a short ride to the harbor for a better view of the inlet. I must add, the BC Valley Inn was a pleasant surprise as it was a virtual oasis in a community that is clearly struggling. Dining in the restaurant was excellent although food prices in Bella Coola were extremely expensive. I guess remoteness has a price...
Culture & History - Bella Coola
While riding in I wondered how electrical power was brought into the area. We followed power lines for much of the paved portion of the ride but after hitting the dirt and park they disappeared. My questions were answered at the Clayton Falls Recreation Site. From 1955 until 1962, the valley was serviced by diesel generators. Clayton Falls was constructed in 1962 as a run-of-the-river hydro generation facility to reduce demand for diesel fuel. In 1991 the hydro plant was upgraded from 500kW to 2MW to further reduce demand for diesel fuel.
The next picture is courtesy of the BC Hydro site.
Tallheo Cannery is located northwest and across the inlet of Bella Coola. It's a ways over there and barely visible in the pic.
There was a surprising amount of activity at the harbor. BC ferry service is available into the community although the schedule is erratic running on even and odd days, plan accordingly! I bet the ride is a stunning one with nice weather.
This poor tug has seen better days...
The marina had some pretty nice boats in the slips.
After dinner, we walked around the town and down to the river.
Two folks drift-netting in the river. It was fascinating watching them in action and seeing the complex boat maneuvering without any power other than the strong current. Their net placement looked to be perfect...obviously they've done this a time or two!
...next up, Hyder
The valley road was tree lined as far as you could see.
After checking into the Bella Coola Valley Inn, we took a short ride to the harbor for a better view of the inlet. I must add, the BC Valley Inn was a pleasant surprise as it was a virtual oasis in a community that is clearly struggling. Dining in the restaurant was excellent although food prices in Bella Coola were extremely expensive. I guess remoteness has a price...
Culture & History - Bella Coola
While riding in I wondered how electrical power was brought into the area. We followed power lines for much of the paved portion of the ride but after hitting the dirt and park they disappeared. My questions were answered at the Clayton Falls Recreation Site. From 1955 until 1962, the valley was serviced by diesel generators. Clayton Falls was constructed in 1962 as a run-of-the-river hydro generation facility to reduce demand for diesel fuel. In 1991 the hydro plant was upgraded from 500kW to 2MW to further reduce demand for diesel fuel.
The next picture is courtesy of the BC Hydro site.
Tallheo Cannery is located northwest and across the inlet of Bella Coola. It's a ways over there and barely visible in the pic.
There was a surprising amount of activity at the harbor. BC ferry service is available into the community although the schedule is erratic running on even and odd days, plan accordingly! I bet the ride is a stunning one with nice weather.
This poor tug has seen better days...
The marina had some pretty nice boats in the slips.
After dinner, we walked around the town and down to the river.
Two folks drift-netting in the river. It was fascinating watching them in action and seeing the complex boat maneuvering without any power other than the strong current. Their net placement looked to be perfect...obviously they've done this a time or two!
...next up, Hyder
Fontanaman
Robin Trower
Bravo!
Nice write-up, George! My buddy and I rode into Bella Coola last summer. The temperature was close to 100 deg. F. all the way in and out from Williams Lake
which made the ride damn uncomfortable. I rode my FJR - no problems at all. Just keep it slow going down "The Hill". Conditions were bone dry though, it would
be a lot more challenging if the dirt sections were wet.
Don't forget to get Hyderized in Hyder!.
which made the ride damn uncomfortable. I rode my FJR - no problems at all. Just keep it slow going down "The Hill". Conditions were bone dry though, it would
be a lot more challenging if the dirt sections were wet.
Don't forget to get Hyderized in Hyder!.
hppants
Well-known member
I'd like to know more about that drift fishing - that looks like a hoot!
More, please....
More, please....
Panman
Well-known member
Jer
Well-known member
George, excellent report and pictures. A friend and I have been considering a trip into Bella Coola and your report is very helpful.
It is nice that you had a personal bodyguard in case of an accicent.
It is nice that you had a personal bodyguard in case of an accicent.
FJRBandit
Well-known member
Excellante'! Loving it! Definitely on my future target list.
escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Traveling UP “The Hill” was much easier (and faster) than the trip in previous day. What was the unknown was now fresh in my mind…I knew what the Tenere (and I) was capable of and it was game on. The dirt was quickly dispatched as we were running upwards of 50 – 60 mph and having a ball! Stopping at the same Heckman Pass overlook, the road didn’t look nearly as daunting as it did just a few short hours ago.
We returned to the Drummond Lodge in Williams Lake to plot the next day’s ride and enjoy a few adult beverages. Sleep came easy that night.
Heading north on CA 97 from Williams Lake, we made short work of Prince George and quickly made plans to stay the night in Smithers.
An old barn and homestead.
Little red church all by itself in the field.
We skirted the river as we traveled north.
More open country.
Stopping for a break we came upon the Hungry Hills Grizzlies.The story goes that a Grizzly developed a taste for beef and dined on thirty or so local stock. Understandably, ranchers were neither amused nor willing to continue feeding the wildlife…
View from the rest stop. Don't think I'd want to track down any hungry bears in this terrain!
Looking north into more rugged country.
That’s a big bear!
The plan was to arrive in Stewart early the next afternoon, grab a room, cross the border and then spend the rest of the day sightseeing. In 2011, Panman and I had stayed at The King Edward Hotel and it again was clean, quiet and comfortable. Highly recommended! Weather reports looked promising with a dry window in the afternoon with rain returning in the evening and unfortunately the next day too. For the time being, the weather gods smiled on us.
Working our way north.
Kitwanga is the junction of CA 16 (to Prince Rupert) and CA 37 the Stewart-Cassiar highway, and ultimately the Alaska Highway. Top off fuel here as the next fuel might be at 37/37A Meziadin Junction or Stewart. As we ventured further north, I was hunting for fuel whenever the tank was half empty. I’d rather stop once too often than miss it by that much...emphasis added!
The money shot!
Crossing the Skeena river just north of the junction.
More big country.
Speed limit varied from 100 to 110...glad I was on the Tenere this time as the FJR would be a willing accomplice to do bad things...
Roadside color.
For Tyler...
From here it's glacier time and some more awesome scenery.
...stay tuned!
We returned to the Drummond Lodge in Williams Lake to plot the next day’s ride and enjoy a few adult beverages. Sleep came easy that night.
Heading north on CA 97 from Williams Lake, we made short work of Prince George and quickly made plans to stay the night in Smithers.
An old barn and homestead.
Little red church all by itself in the field.
We skirted the river as we traveled north.
More open country.
Stopping for a break we came upon the Hungry Hills Grizzlies.The story goes that a Grizzly developed a taste for beef and dined on thirty or so local stock. Understandably, ranchers were neither amused nor willing to continue feeding the wildlife…
View from the rest stop. Don't think I'd want to track down any hungry bears in this terrain!
Looking north into more rugged country.
That’s a big bear!
The plan was to arrive in Stewart early the next afternoon, grab a room, cross the border and then spend the rest of the day sightseeing. In 2011, Panman and I had stayed at The King Edward Hotel and it again was clean, quiet and comfortable. Highly recommended! Weather reports looked promising with a dry window in the afternoon with rain returning in the evening and unfortunately the next day too. For the time being, the weather gods smiled on us.
Working our way north.
Kitwanga is the junction of CA 16 (to Prince Rupert) and CA 37 the Stewart-Cassiar highway, and ultimately the Alaska Highway. Top off fuel here as the next fuel might be at 37/37A Meziadin Junction or Stewart. As we ventured further north, I was hunting for fuel whenever the tank was half empty. I’d rather stop once too often than miss it by that much...emphasis added!
The money shot!
Crossing the Skeena river just north of the junction.
More big country.
Speed limit varied from 100 to 110...glad I was on the Tenere this time as the FJR would be a willing accomplice to do bad things...
Roadside color.
For Tyler...
From here it's glacier time and some more awesome scenery.
...stay tuned!
Fontanaman
Robin Trower
If you ever get bored in retirement don't forget this is a project waiting in the wings! You have the perfect skill set to assure your ship will come in!
We could take up a collection on the forum to help you with this project. As Captain of your own ship you could provide a wonderful service to FJR riders on the forum who make their way to Bella Coola!
We could take up a collection on the forum to help you with this project. As Captain of your own ship you could provide a wonderful service to FJR riders on the forum who make their way to Bella Coola!
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escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
Remember the weather gods were smiling on us...
After making the corner at 37 / 37A the sun was out and the clouds lifted - at least for a little bit.
On familiar roads and close to Stewart, it was time for some sightseeing. The scenery traveling down the valley is simply stunning...lush, green, waterfalls, craggy mountains, it's all here. Oh, and did I mention glaciers??
Not saying that I enjoy seeing critters while riding a motorcycle, but on the trip in 2011 there was abundant wildlife. The road was clear cut back 50 feet or more so visibility was never an issue and we always had plenty of warning when critters were around. We saw several deer and at least a dozen black bears before reaching Meziadin Junction.
This year nada, nothing. This lone young adult black bear was the only sighting while in the wilds.
Continuing down the valley the clouds began to get lower.
Smaller glacier before reaching...
Bear Glacier. This trip I couldn't get a good pic as the clouds were low and just not cooperating with me! I've got the same pic from 2011 with my FJR and the clouds / overcast looked the same. The glacier looked very similar to me this trip. You'll see later that seemed to be the norm...
Less bike!
As we continued down the valley, there were abundant waterfalls.
Sneak peek of the inlet at Hyder off the pier / boat launch area.
'Nuff said!
...next up, Salmon Glacier!
After making the corner at 37 / 37A the sun was out and the clouds lifted - at least for a little bit.
On familiar roads and close to Stewart, it was time for some sightseeing. The scenery traveling down the valley is simply stunning...lush, green, waterfalls, craggy mountains, it's all here. Oh, and did I mention glaciers??
Not saying that I enjoy seeing critters while riding a motorcycle, but on the trip in 2011 there was abundant wildlife. The road was clear cut back 50 feet or more so visibility was never an issue and we always had plenty of warning when critters were around. We saw several deer and at least a dozen black bears before reaching Meziadin Junction.
This year nada, nothing. This lone young adult black bear was the only sighting while in the wilds.
Continuing down the valley the clouds began to get lower.
Smaller glacier before reaching...
Bear Glacier. This trip I couldn't get a good pic as the clouds were low and just not cooperating with me! I've got the same pic from 2011 with my FJR and the clouds / overcast looked the same. The glacier looked very similar to me this trip. You'll see later that seemed to be the norm...
Less bike!
As we continued down the valley, there were abundant waterfalls.
Sneak peek of the inlet at Hyder off the pier / boat launch area.
'Nuff said!
...next up, Salmon Glacier!
FJRBandit
Well-known member
Luvin' it! Can't wait to get Hyderized myself!
Great memories you are stirring up. Did a different route but Hyder was one of our highlights. Google " go west come hell or high water" and it will come up on Advrider. Was on my Super Tenere at the time too.
Keep me coming!
Cheers!
Keep me coming!
Cheers!
