Homemade Steering Bearing Socket

[PhilJet09]

I forgot about this thread. The original socket I modified in the pictures turned out to not be quite deep enough so I had to go out and get a deeper ($$$) one. I'll post pictures one of these days...if I ever get back home. The concept is still the same though.

 

[Dale2010]

I forgot about this thread. The original socket I modified in the pictures turned out to not be quite deep enough so I had to go out and get a deeper ($$$) one. I'll post pictures one of these days...if I ever get back home. The concept is still the same though.

How deep is the final working socket (i.e. what would be the overall height of the socket)? Was your second socket still 1 1/4" or 32 mm? How deep (high) do the 'teeth' need to be?

I'm trying to construct something without ever having seen an original or even the castle nut, so that when mine finally comes apart, I'll hopefully be all ready to go.

Thank for any additional info.

 

[gixxerjasen]

Hrm, I wonder if I could order and replace the Yamaha nut with a Suzuki nut that fits my four prong castle nut made from a 1 1/4" socket...

 

[900gc]

I forgot about this thread. The original socket I modified in the pictures turned out to not be quite deep enough so I had to go out and get a deeper ($$$) one. I'll post pictures one of these days...if I ever get back home. The concept is still the same though.

How deep is the final working socket (i.e. what would be the overall height of the socket)? Was your second socket still 1 1/4" or 32 mm? How deep (high) do the 'teeth' need to be?

I'm trying to construct something without ever having seen an original or even the castle nut, so that when mine finally comes apart, I'll hopefully be all ready to go.

Thank for any additional info.

I made mine out of Sched. 40 aluminum pipe I got for free from a local pipe shop out of their scrap bin. It is 2.5" deep for plenty of clearance and the teeth are .25" high. The aluminum is plenty strong for the initial 37 lb. torque setting.

 

[Dale2010]

I made mine out of Sched. 40 aluminum pipe I got for free from a local pipe shop out of their scrap bin. It is 2.5" deep for plenty of clearance and the teeth are .25" high. The aluminum is plenty strong for the initial 37 lb. torque setting.

Good information to add to my 'design' diagram/information. How wide is each tooth and what is the inside radius of the pipe you are using?

Thanks,

Dale

 

[gixxerjasen]

Question for those using pipe pieces. How are you turning it? IE, how does the torque wrench work with it? Got any pictures?

 

[oldmantwo]

Question for those using pipe pieces. How are you turning it? IE, how does the torque wrench work with it? Got any pictures?

Do a search for author "oldmantwo" Spanner Nuts Again thread, it has pictures and some info on my frabricated sockets.

oldmantwo

 

[garauld]

For those w/o hacksaws and the like, you may be able to use an adjustable hook spanner:

Here's a link to McMaster-Carr's site: Spanner Page

I have one that I would be willing to lend out.

 

[garyahouse]

I forgot about this thread. The original socket I modified in the pictures turned out to not be quite deep enough so I had to go out and get a deeper ($$$) one. I'll post pictures one of these days...if I ever get back home. The concept is still the same though.

Did you mean that the socket itself needed to be, say something like a deep-well socket, or that the teeth weren't cut deep enough?

Gary

 

[gixxerjasen]

Question for those using pipe pieces. How are you turning it? IE, how does the torque wrench work with it? Got any pictures?

Do a search for author "oldmantwo" Spanner Nuts Again thread, it has pictures and some info on my frabricated sockets.

oldmantwo

Odd, the forum search was more helpful than google. Google gave me one result, sigh, this thread. Found it easy peasy with the forum search. THAT doesn't happen every day!

Interesting and just as I'd feared. Beyond my skill set. I'd be better off screwing up three big sockets before finally getting it right.

 

[900gc]

I made mine out of Sched. 40 aluminum pipe I got for free from a local pipe shop out of their scrap bin. It is 2.5" deep for plenty of clearance and the teeth are .25" high. The aluminum is plenty strong for the initial 37 lb. torque setting.

Good information to add to my 'design' diagram/information. How wide is each tooth and what is the inside radius of the pipe you are using?

Thanks,

Dale

Dale:

Pipe is 1.498" ID, 1.898" OD (.200 wall thk.) Teeth are .240" wide. 6061 T6 is pretty tough for Alum. but still a lot easier to work with than steel.

Cheers

 

[900gc]

Question for those using pipe pieces. How are you turning it? IE, how does the torque wrench work with it? Got any pictures?

I cut a deep slot across the top 1" wide and used a short 1/8" thk. x 1" wide steel cross bar with a 3/8 socket wrench cutout in it. I was going to mechanically attach it (I don't have a welder) but found that it worked fine just popping it in the slot and torquing it down.

 

[PhilJet09]

I forgot about this thread. The original socket I modified in the pictures turned out to not be quite deep enough so I had to go out and get a deeper ($$$) one. I'll post pictures one of these days...if I ever get back home. The concept is still the same though.

How deep is the final working socket (i.e. what would be the overall height of the socket)? Was your second socket still 1 1/4" or 32 mm? How deep (high) do the 'teeth' need to be?

I'm trying to construct something without ever having seen an original or even the castle nut, so that when mine finally comes apart, I'll hopefully be all ready to go.

Thank for any additional info.

PM me your address and I'll send you the extra castle nut I got to make this without tearing the bike apart.

 

[PhilJet09]

Ok, I couldn't find the pictures I took of the deep socket and I never took any showing how it works on the bike, so....I took my bike apart today an re-torqued my steering head. It's the perfect thing to do after you've spend the last two weeks in Europe and can no longer sleep past 4am.

 

[PhilJet09]

I used a 1 1/4 6pt deep socket, but a 32mm 6 or 12pt would work also.

 

[Dale2010]

I made mine out of Sched. 40 aluminum pipe I got for free from a local pipe shop out of their scrap bin. It is 2.5" deep for plenty of clearance and the teeth are .25" high. The aluminum is plenty strong for the initial 37 lb. torque setting.

Good information to add to my 'design' diagram/information. How wide is each tooth and what is the inside radius of the pipe you are using?

Thanks,

Dale

Dale:

Pipe is 1.498" ID, 1.898" OD (.200 wall thk.) Teeth are .240" wide. 6061 T6 is pretty tough for Alum. but still a lot easier to work with than steel.

Cheers

Thanks for the info. This should help reduce the number of sockets destroyed before I get one to fit.

Dale

 

[escapefjrtist]

I used a 1 1/4 6pt deep socket, but a 32mm 6 or 12pt would work also.

Thanks for the great information...another special tool to fab up!

--G

 

[PhilJet09]

I have a spare castle nut that I used to mark the socket for cutting/fitting that I'm just going to pass around to those that are interested in trying this. Dale gets it first, but I'm sure after he's done he could be convinced to mail it to the next one in line.

 

[gixxerjasen]

I have a spare castle nut that I used to mark the socket for cutting/fitting that I'm just going to pass around to those that are interested in trying this. Dale gets it first, but I'm sure after he's done he could be convinced to mail it to the next one in line.

You know....it wouldn't be too hard to fab up a pdf template that could be printed....

 

[PhilJet09]

I have a spare castle nut that I used to mark the socket for cutting/fitting that I'm just going to pass around to those that are interested in trying this. Dale gets it first, but I'm sure after he's done he could be convinced to mail it to the next one in line.

You know....it wouldn't be too hard to fab up a pdf template that could be printed....

That's a great idea! Unfortunately, I just sent the nut out in the mail.