Homemade Steering Bearing Socket

[Fred W]

Yes. The OE spanner must be used at a 90 degree angle so it doesn't add to the length (and therefore alter the torque results) of the wrench.

 

[kurbennett64]

Thanks Fred.

 

[PhilJet09]

To quote Barry:

Die you simple minded thread.. die.

 

[Queensland Ken]

I had a C spanner that I cut, welded a socket & made two tools from one.

Works a treat.

 

[bigjohnsd]

1/2" Drive Special socket,

1/2" drive 36mm socket purchased at Sears for $8.00

 

[08FJR4ME]

1/2" Drive Special socket,

1/2" drive 36mm socket purchased at Sears for $8.00

John, are you saying this is just a modified sears 36mm socket? I will have to check this out since I seem to be feeling something slightly clunking in the handle bars. It seems to be more noticeable as of lately. With almost 75K it may be time to check the bearing adjustment and do some lubrication.

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-36mm-easy-to-read-socket-12-pt/p-00950752000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

Dave

 

[bigjohnsd]

No Dave, the tool appears to have been machined from bar stock, the 36mm socket is what I believed/believe I need to remove the nut off the top of the steering stem, which is covered up by my MV Motorad Riser setup.

 

[08FJR4ME]

O.K. I still plan on making my own. Just looking for a short cut and I still might look for the right size socket to cut up to make this happen. I believe you are correct that It is a 36mm nut.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[bigjohnsd]

O.K. I still plan on making my own. Just looking for a short cut and I still might look for the right size socket to cut up to make this happen. I believe you are correct that It is a 36mm nut.
Thanks,

Dave

I was going to go the DIY route then after I figured out the socket to modify was going to cost $8-10 and that it was likely that I'd have 3-5 hours into grinding the socket and no guarantee of success, I cheaped out and bought the $35 special.

 

[Fred W]

O.K. I still plan on making my own. Just looking for a short cut and I still might look for the right size socket to cut up to make this happen. I believe you are correct that It is a 36mm nut.

Dave,

Per the 1st post of this thread, a 1 1/4" 12 point was a good starting socket for grinding down.

Also, if you wanted to make the job quicker and easier you could leave just two of the six nubs on the socket. That would be plenty strong enough for the torque values involved in this job, no doubt. The Yamaha spanner tool manages it on just one tab.

Or if you want really easy you could just borrow my JustRoy socket.

 

[mcatrophy]

A slight tweak of the image of that tool might help:

(Click on image for larger view)

 

[08FJR4ME]

Fred,

Thanks for the offer and info. You have to remember I like to tinker too.

Dave

 

[Constant Mesh]

Just use some slip-joint pliers and tighten the ring nuts by calibrated feel.

I can't believe the shop techs use a torque wrench for this application.

 

[TomInPA]

Just use some slip-joint pliers and tighten the ring nuts by calibrated feel.
I can't believe the shop techs use a torque wrench for this application.

When working on your own bike, it's your choice. A commercial shop doing this would be using a torque wrench for liability avoidance. Considering the critical nature of the steering components, I would want to document it was done right in case the customer had an issue and wanted to get rich on my alleged negligence.

I just did the maintenance using a spanner wrench, and the torque values worked pretty good. I have done it by "feel" on other bikes in the past. Before starting I was surprised to find my steering head nut that is supposed to be at 85 ft-lbs was not even finger tight.