Valve Checks vs. Adjustment Required Poll

[Fred W]

Interesting that you had already taken steps to decarbonize. Maybe what you used is not aggressive enough?

It may be that yours is a rare example where the valves came from the factory a bit wider. Or maybe your feeler gauges are FUBAR?

I'd just stick to the standard valve check schedule, unless you notice something awry. If the clearances are growing, unlike with the opposite case of shrinking clearances, it isn't a dangerous thing. It would just eventually cause degraded engine performance due to altered timing. If the next check shows the clearances are bigger still, then you might want to consider a more radical decarbonizing regime.

 

[HYCLE]

My first valve check at 40K miles required no adjustment. My second valve check at 80k miles required 4 shims to correct slightly tight valves. Work was done at dealer and I didn't ask for specfics.

 

[Fred W]

This poll has been running for 3 1/2 years.

Time to see what we can extrapolate from the results (I think you might be surprised)

On the initial valve check, slightly less than half of the respondents did their own check.

On the second check, slightly more than half did their own.

On checks 3 through 5 the overwhelming majority do their own. (79%)

(Higher mileage owners do their own?)

In the first two checks, percentage of Dealer vs DIY reshims:

11% vs 18% on first check

28% vs 39% on second check

(It appears that DIYers reshim more often than dealerships. Could this be due to some DIY people measuring the clearance opposite the cam lobe?)

15% of all bikes are re-shimed on the first check (total of 129)

29% of all bikes are re-shimmed on 2nd check (total of 75)

33% of all bikes are re-shimmed on 3rd check (total of 21)

37% of all bikes are re-shimmed on 4th check (total of 8)

66% of all bikes are re-shimmed on 5th check (only 3 reporting)

(Although the last data points are under-sampled, there appears to be a clear trend that re-shimming is required more often at later check intervals)

 

[900gc]

Thanks for the number crunching Fred. I like useful data!

 

[Dudewado]

I had my first check at 26k miles done at Sunnyside, now Desert Valley, in Washington.

No shims were needed, but I didn't get details.

My initial plan for the 52k check was to take it to Roseville Yamaha near Sacramento.

(You can tell I have no nearby dealers that I trust.)

Since I haven't been able to get down there, I dove into the job myself at 55k miles.

All of my intakes were .006"

All of my ex. were .008 or .009"

My initial impulse was to start shimming, but after sleeping on it, I decided that in spec is in spec.

I'm buttoning everything back up and calling it good.

Job went reasonably well; I also installed a new cam chain tensioner while I was at it.

I will forever curse the design of the coolant pipe; that mutha' is no fun to get out or back in.

The valve cover is no picknick either.

 

[Fred W]

Good decision, IMO. In spec is in spec. :thumbsup:

My valves have been just like yours on both the first and second checks. I'm hoping they never budge.

 

[jmgrif]

Here it is 2013! I just did my 3rd check at 89,000kms, first two by dealer and third by me with help from others at Auburn's Tech day May 4/13. Still OK! Some held the opinion at the meet that at this stage of the game mileage wise I may not see any further degradation requiring a re shimming? Having been walked very carefully through the process I will of course keep checking at the appropriate intervals! My normal oil change is around 5000kms (3000mi.) which some feel a little too often. I usually replace filters with every other change? I'm also a fan of Motul 7100!

 

[RadioHowie]

Just curious why you're checking at 89k km when your 3rd check wasn't due 'til 126k km??? (assuming I did the math conversion correctly)

 

[900gc]

Here it is 2013! I just did my 3rd check at 89,000kms, first two by dealer and third by me with help from others at Auburn's Tech day May 4/13. Still OK! Some held the opinion at the meet that at this stage of the game mileage wise I may not see any further degradation requiring a re shimming? Having been walked very carefully through the process I will of course keep checking at the appropriate intervals! My normal oil change is around 5000kms (3000mi.) which some feel a little too often. I usually replace filters with every other change? I'm also a fan of Motul 7100!

Although the cam and shims technically will wear over time, with proper oil change intervals, that will be minuscule. My understanding is that the valve clearance changes over time primarily due to them slamming shut on the seats a bazillion times. I remember reading an article about how Ducati greatly increased valve check intervals in a particular motor by changing the valve seat material.

 

[LAF]

Just had my first check done on my 2010. Here are the values for information.

Intake specs .0059 - .0087

7 7 6 6 7 7 6 7

Exhaust specs .0071 - .0098

9 9 9 10 10 10 10 8

The shop charges 4.5 hours at 84.00 dollars an hour for a valve check.

I had the plugs replaced, Throttel Bodies Synced, air filter replaced, and all gaskets, PA inspection and the bill was 567.50. I had saved my Service contract for this service that I bought when I bought the bike so my part of the tab was 158.29.

I was very suprised on all the gaskets and rubber molunts to be replaced on the valve cover. Like 2 inside, the main one, 8 rubber mounts, and the two coolant o rings.

So now it has backed up my YES so the next one is on me. I wanted a shop to do the first one so I had paper on the first check to keep YES in good standing.

Not a cheap adventure at 378.00 for the valve check labor only. However they said if it needed shimmed the labor was included and I would have only paid for shims.

Have not had time to digest the numbers yet but any thoughts from you guys would be great.

Also we talked before hand and he does know tight or loose on the fit. He said my 6 was a loose with a 7 just not going, so he called them 6. I slipped him a twenty and went on my way. He is a top notch Tech and takes care of me so I always tip him.

He also said I have the nicest FJR he has ridden with no throttle snatch, I told him the PC and Auto Tune works.

They also asked about what problems come up and I mentioned 2nd gear and they both looked at me and said they have one sitting with a pop out situation. I told them shift fork and they both shook their head yes.

So this is my story and I am sticking to it.

 

[Fred W]

I was very suprised on all the gaskets and rubber molunts to be replaced on the valve cover. Like 2 inside, the main one, 8 rubber mounts, and the two coolant o rings.

Only the coolant pipe o-rings are required, and those can be sourced from Home Depot plumbing department. Everything else can be re-used. Makes checking the valves a very inexpensive proposition (when you do the labor yourself).

 

[LAF]

I was very suprised on all the gaskets and rubber molunts to be replaced on the valve cover. Like 2 inside, the main one, 8 rubber mounts, and the two coolant o rings.

Only the coolant pipe o-rings are required, and those can be sourced from Home Depot plumbing department. Everything else can be re-used. Makes checking the valves a very inexpensive proposition (when you do the labor yourself).

As I went to a dealer for the first they do it per the Shop Manual. I have read only the coolant o rings need done but as I said I wanted a dealer doing the first to keep everyone happy and on the YES warranty train if I ever need it. The cost of those gaskets and rubber mounts were not too excessive for me and if that is what a shop is supposed to do, I would not argue.

I will do the next one myself and was chomping at the bit to do this one but with my service contract running out, and we worked to keep enough for this service, I wanted documentation. My comment was there are more gaskets and rubber mounts and such then I had realized. If I needed them or not this first time was decided by my shop, next time it will be me so the money will matter.

 

[jmgrif]

Just curious why you're checking at 89k km when your 3rd check wasn't due 'til 126k km??? (assuming I did the math conversion correctly)

Just looked back here and see this query. I had a get off 2 years ago in the fall and asked the dealer to check the valves at that time since a lot of the plastic would be off the bike anyway. They had the bike for several months due to, no hurry here it was winter. I had a suspicion the valve check may not have been done? No proof just a feeling so I decided to take advantage of Auburn's Tech Day and do it myself in order to learn a little more about the bike! Probably overkill but now I feel better. In the future I will do my own closer to the proper interval.

 

[TripperMike]

For those of you out there putting off doing your own valve clearance check yourself......DIY for crying out loud! And here's why:

A quick history of my valve clearance checks go something like this. Had the first one done at around 31K by a local recommended bike mechanic. No adjustments needed, I was happy to hear that and promptly rode the 8 miles to home. Got home, looked down and saw that my right boot was covered in oil. WTF! Brought the bike back to have him fix the screw up. He told me that trying to get the cover on and keeping that seal properly aligned was tricky business, but he'll get done right. Anyways I ended up taking it back to him a third time before my bike quit puking oil on my boots. WoW I'm thinking, that gasket must really be a bisquit to get on correctly.

Next check was around 82K to a different mechanic recommended by a fellow rider from here. Guy says it'll take a week and ended up taking nearly 3. This time 1 valve needed adjustment, no biggie, I was pleased with that. He also replaced the CCT and did a TBS. Bike seemed to run OK when I brought it home. In the next few days I had to adjust the idle speed up to keep the bike running at stop signs and discovered that 3 of the 4 rubber boots (that need to be removed for the TBS) were severely cracked. I normally did my own TBS, but 2 months earlier I discovered my cheapo tool had developed bad seals, but at that time those rubber boots were in great condition.

Now last weekend carlson_mn was kind enough to ride over to my place and teach this old dog a new trick. Checking your own valves is not that hard. What we also discovered in the process was that the previous mechanic had the timing off by at least 2 teeth. Well shit howdy! And here I was thinking my bike was feeling old 'cuz it had 121K on the clock. Actually these past 2 yrs I had felt my bike had lost some it's zip. Well lemme tell you, 2 teeth makes a huge difference. Thanks to Matt, I've got my old girl back.

I'm thinking these mechanics, independant or otherwise, basically have a buck to make. Maybe if you're not one of their "regulars" or they think you don't know much about bikes, they must think that as long as your bike runs they must have done their job. They hand you the bill and you ride off not knowing they didn't do a top notch job (or even a job done correctly).

BTW, my valves didn't need any re-shimming at this time either. I'm finding that by doing as much wrenching yourself as you feel comfortable with is the way to go. Sure there will be those times when you may have to do something twice in order to get it right, but at least you'll know it's done right eventually. Unless my next bike has a YES (or something similar), I'll be hard pressed to bring a bike to a mechanic to do something on it.

My rant is over. This seemed like the appropriate thread to put this; not really worthy of a new one. Besides this thread already has tons of info on it and maybe others (new members) might read all of it and glean some knowledge from it. Let me reiterate for the valve clearance checking virgins out there, it ain't that difficult nor that mysterious. Just take your time and you'll get it. But I do have one tip. Tighten those cap bolts exactly as the manuel says. If you just tighten them willy nilly, you'll likely hear a lot of racket when you start your bike and it'll vibrate like a tractor. Don't ask me how I know, I just do.

 

[Fly Bye]

Had valves checked at 28k, no adjustment needed.

 

[PhilJet09]

Just did my second valve check and everything is still in spec, although three of the intakes are now at .006". Only two of them are different from the last check. Not going to make any changes.

 

[RossKean]

I just completed my third valve check at 110,000 miles - I know, I should do them more often. First check was good and the second had 4 intake valves right at minimum clearance. This time (only 25,000 miles later), 4 were below the minimum clearance spec and a couple were right on the minimum. Since I had to change some, I decided to do all eight intakes. Set them all close to 0.20mm by sanding the original shims on carbide paper. Took a bit over an hour to do this - local dealer didn't have the required shims in stock.

All exhaust valves were good with very little change from the last check. Wonder why it seems that intake valves need to be re-shimmed more often than exhaust valves?

 

[DennisJ]

Scheduled for my 1st check at 28000, probably Sept/Oct this year. Having some doubts about the shop I normally use since the mechanic I normally used has moved on and his replacement didnt' bleed the front caliper for the rear brake during the 24000 mile check resulting in little or no rear brake. Said that a bad ABS pump might be the cause which I thought odd. Wasn't until I started checking the bleeders when I got home that I saw there was no indication of the front bleeder had a wrench put to it. I plan on installing my Speed Bleeders this weekend and doing the brakes myself to make sure before I have a quiet talk with the head of the service dept and the guy who indicated he bled the brakes. I think I will be checking the rest of the items on the list also to see if anything else is not right.

 

[ktown]

RossKean

My first check also was late and also the intakes were close or at minimum .One claim to my situation was carbon build up but had used back to back 3 tanks prior using RXP. They also insinuated that had might have NG feeler gages ? I am way behind 110k miles at 42k for an 06'

Question about the cam chain adjuster did you change anytime in that mileage ? I have a factory new one put back.

Anyone can pile on

 

[RossKean]

Carbon buildup (more likely on exhaust than intakes) will increase clearance, not decrease. From what I have seen, most FJR's pass valve check for the first couple of checks but the intakes tend to be below the middle of the range right from the start.

I changed my CCT fairly early; maybe 40,000 miles. No evidence of any issues but decided to do it as a preventative measure after reading some horror stories here.