Audiovox CC install problem

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double_entendre

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I'm trying to install the Audiovox CC onto my FJR and have managed to drill the tang so that I could put the screw into the tang and the little holder for the beaded chain. Unfortunately, I find that when I open the throttle the screw & chain holder interfere with the throttle cable at 7/8 to full throttle. See pics:

Throttle closed:

DSC02315.jpg


Throttle 3/4 open:

DSC02318.jpg


I tried bending the tang so that it would let the screw clear, but I just can't quite get it to do it and I'm hesitant to bend it too much because that little gizmo isn't a separately available part--**** it up, buy a throttle body, it appears. :blink: I'm not even gonna price that puppy. I really don't like the interference between the cable and the bolt and bead holder--I can't imagine that won't start damaging the cable with time.

Suggestions? I'd try a smaller-headed screw and give that a go, but it seems that the OEM bolt has a bit of a shoulder to let the bead holder swing freely. I suppose I could just not tighten a smaller screw fully and use red Loctite. :unsure:

I've done some Googling and haven't found anything, so once again I cast myself upon the sea of knowledge that is FJRForum.com. :clapping:

Thanks!

Rancho

 
What size bolt did you use?!

I used a #6-32 (US not metric) button head with the hole "slight" outside (of the throttle cable side) of center with no clearance problems. Be careful that the nut for the bolt doesn't extend below the bottom of the tang. If it does it will interfere with set screw that the tang rests on and cause it to idle faster. You will want to snug the bolt so the chain connector will rotate smoothly with no twist as that can cause interference

 
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What size bolt did you use?!
I used a 6-32 button head with the hole "slight" outside (of the throttle cable side) of center with no clearance problems. Be careful that the nut for the bolt doesn't extend below the bottom of the tang. If it does it will interfere with set screw that the tang rests on and cause it to idle faster. You will want to snug the bolt so the chain connector will rotate smoothly with no twist as that can cause interference
I used the one that came in the kit, so...... Dunno. I managed to get it to work, but in retrospect I would definitely use a smaller screw. That one is a 4mm thread out of the kit. (I have no clue why it's metric--I'd have bet my bike it was SAE, but it was metric. Huh.

The bolt doesn't go past the nyloc I put on and as far as I can tell it's resting on the stop the way it should be.

I think I'm done for the day. Need some vacuum tubing and my DIY vacuum resevoir parts. <fx: looks around at all the gardening stuff he's got, amazed there's no suitable PVC pipe.>

Rancho

 
Here's a picture of how I did mine. I did actually bend the tang to straighten it a little. I used a very small button head machine screw and a small nylon bushing I found at the hardware store that fit the inside of the chain end better. It doesn't hit anything and the chain makes a straight pull instead of being twisted.

A little over ~10k miles on it so far with no problems.

DSC_1961.jpg


Ed.

 
I didn't bother with a screw at all.

I took a cotter pin and slightly spread the pins and passed the open end between the last two balls of the bead chain - I threaded the two pins through the hole I had drilled and wrapped them back over the tang . . . 5,000 miles, no problems.

 
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I installed mine today. Having that same problem, I decided to use a flathead countersunk screw type, then I countersunk the hole on the throttle tang and the screw head is pretty much flush with the tang itself.

I also put bolts on the OTHER side of the tang to secure the chain so on the side where you're hitting the cable, there's nothing even there.

worked pretty good

Leskid said:
I installed mine today. Having that same problem, I decided to use a flathead countersunk screw type, then I countersunk the hole on the throttle tang and the screw head is pretty much flush with the tang itself.
I also put bolts on the OTHER side of the tang to secure the chain so on the side where you're hitting the cable, there's nothing even there.

worked pretty good
errrr, I meant I put NUTS on the other side, not bolts

 
I used Radman's suggestion and it's working fine.
I'd say that you drilled out way too much meat on that throttle stop tang, I used a #31 (.12") drill bit for a 3mm screw.
Yeah, looks like it. I was using the FJR1300Info.com site instructions. Not a massive mistake. I manage to bend it so that it only barely touches the cable when I'm at full throttle and (to be honest and show my pansy-ness) I rarely need to whack it WFO anyway.

Thanks to all y'all for the thoughts. I hope that the next person to do an install finds this thread. I didn't see any mention of the interference issue in the DIY install threads I read.

Rancho

 
Not a massive mistake. I manage to bend it so that it only barely touches the cable when I'm at full throttle and (to be honest and show my pansy-ness) I rarely need to whack it WFO anyway.
Just be sure that the tang has a good "resting" surface on the set screw/bolt that the tang rests on when the throttle is at idle. It positions the throttle body intake plates. If it does not sit on the set screw, the plates are "closed" too much or if the tang is held off the set screw, it is "open" too much. Neither is desirable.

 
Not a massive mistake. I manage to bend it so that it only barely touches the cable when I'm at full throttle and (to be honest and show my pansy-ness) I rarely need to whack it WFO anyway.
Just be sure that the tang has a good "resting" surface on the set screw/bolt that the tang rests on when the throttle is at idle. It positions the throttle body intake plates. If it does not sit on the set screw, the plates are "closed" too much or if the tang is held off the set screw, it is "open" too much. Neither is desirable.
I *think* I'm good. Need to put the tank on and give it a go to be sure. I'll know soon enough, eh?

Rancho

 
I did two things I ground down the screw and bent the tang with vice grips no problems with hitting the throttle cable after that.
For posterity's sake at least one owner broke their tang doing that. As double_entendre guessed new throttle bodies are mucho dinero! You don't need to bend the tang.

Another solution to the ones above is to drill and tap the hole. There is a bolt that come with the cc kit that fits the bead holder. Thread this bolt through the tang on the side opposite the throttle cable with a dab of blue loctite. Dremel the threads flush to the tang, voila, no interference.

 
"at least one owner broke their tang"
And we all know how painful that can be. :dribble:
And I supplied him with a new TB lever. I had 1. Just 1.
Good thing I didn't break mine then, huh?

Seems strange that something so obviously not an inseparable part of the TB assembly would not be available separately.

Rancho

 
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