Audiovox CC not engaging

[NSrider]

My CC that worked flawlessly all of last year is not doing the same this year. With the tank propped up I can see that it only engages for a split second and then disengages. I checked all the wires for proper voltages and everything is fine as far as I can tell. Probably a stupid question but should there be 12V on the blue wire from the ten pin connector to the coil?

I have been fooling with this for a while now and am just about ready to remove the coolant pipe and move the CC to the garbage can. :angry2:

 

[bramfrank]

Disconnect the brake sensor wire and connect that straight to ground and try again.

The brake input is VERY sensitive and you may well need a relay to provide a hard ground - had that with my old Concours and installed a relay straight away on the FJR to head the problem off before it could occur.

If it starts working you'll know you need a relay.

On the other hand, did you leave the resistor on the blue wire when you installed the system? If not, you could well need to reinstall it (don't recall it's value, but someone can pipe up with it if that turns out to be an issue.

 

[wfooshee]

The blue wire carries a pulse, not a voltage, so DC volts will be useless on that wire.

If it engages and then immediately disengages then it's not the brake light connections. If those were flaky it wouldn't engage even momentarily.

OTOH, there is no non-riding unloaded test for engagement. It will not engage on the centerstand; there's not enough load and the speed changes too quickly, which makes it think it's a runaway engine. If that's where you're seeing what you report, then that would be expected.

You may just have too much slack in the bead chain. If the cruise cable moves a certain amount with no monitored change in speed, or if it moves too quickly even with a matching speed change (like on the centerstand) it assumes a fault somewhere and disengages. You want as close to zero slack in the bead chain as you can manage, but not less than zero slack.

Also check switch 7. Don't recall off-hand which way it should be, but GenII bikes seem to prefer that switch opposite the earlier recommended Gen I setting.

You might check for a sticky brake pedal. If that pedal doesn't return well after using the rear brake the brake lights remain on, and the cruise will refuse to engage.

 

[NSrider]

The blue wire carries a pulse, not a voltage, so DC volts will be useless on that wire.

I have checked everything the you and bramfrank have suggested except for running the brake input to ground. I am reading 12V on the blue wire that goes to the coil.

 

[Constant Mesh]

With the ignition switched on and the engine not running you'll measure 12 volts dc on the blue wire. The blue wire is connected to the switched side of the coil circuit. When the coil is open circuited by the ECU you'll read the constant supply voltage (12+ volts dc) at both terminals of the coil -- zero current flow equals zero voltage drop in the coil.

Press the red "engine stop switch" on the right handlebar and see if the voltage disappears on the blue wire -- it should.

You should carefully check your vacuum connections and verify that adequate vacuum is available to the servo. Something may have changed during the FJR's hibernation.

 

[NSrider]

OTOH, there is no non-riding unloaded test for engagement. It will not engage on the centerstand; there's not enough load and the speed changes too quickly, which makes it think it's a runaway engine. If that's where you're seeing what you report, then that would be expected.

With the CC turned on when I hit "set" the chain will move just a couple mm and then stop and sometimes it does nothing. When I installed it last year it would engage and the immediately cancel as you said. At least then I knew it was working before I buttoned everything back up.

 

[kaitsdad]

I hafta ask - have you recently installed any sort of brake light modulator, or perhaps LED tailight bulbs?

 

[NSrider]

I hafta ask - have you recently installed any sort of brake light modulator, or perhaps LED tailight bulbs?

Nothing installed on the brake light circuit, I was already aware of the problem that causes. Nothing has changed since last year, it just sat in storage for the winter.

 

[Zorlac]

Mice?

 

[NSrider]

Disconnect the brake sensor wire and connect that straight to ground and try again.
The brake input is VERY sensitive and you may well need a relay to provide a hard ground - had that with my old Concours and installed a relay straight away on the FJR to head the problem off before it could occur.

If it starts working you'll know you need a relay.

Ok I have found the problem, I got home today with a few minutes of daylight left and started working on it again, thanks bramfrank, it was the brake sensor wire. When I installed it last year there was .34V on the wire and I was told not to worry about and I didn't because it was working fine. However for some reason, this year it does not work with that little voltage on the wire. So now I just need to install a relay.

EDIT... I just checked my old post and I was only getting .15V last year. There goes my memory