Best Synthetic
- Thread starter Mogan
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mdisher
formerly Renegade, get used to it.
Mogan
Well-known member
Fuel cell is still for sale. Haven't pursued it yet. Thinking about putting it on eBay cuz you fellas both jumped on this so fast. Not sure who to go to...
Warchild
Benevolent Dictator
Hmmmm.... I have received 3 private emails on this thread asking what I personally use, so although it's against my better judgement to even reply to this intemiable NERPT, I'll offer my opinion on the two synthetic oils I used religiously nowadays....
On the FJR, it's Mobil One 15-50W red (or gold) cap (no starburst label, obviously). It's readily available most everywhere, and when on sale, not too shabby a price.
Between November-April, I'll switch to 10-40W Mobil One MX4T.... PacNorWest winters here in the steppes and plains in the High Desert of eastern Washington can make conventional oils the consistancy of pudding (ok, slightly exaggerating here, but....)
However, for the XX and the R1, I have made the leap to a slightly more expensive synthetic, which may or may not be superior to the MX4T stuff, but I get a woody using it, so.... :lol:
The XX and R1 receive this delicious oil here: Silkolene 4T Pro-4 Plus Synthetic Racing Engine Oil
Yeah, it's probably way overkill on the R1 (where I use the 10-40W version of this Silkolene), but the Blackbird is another story. There are events where I wouldn't be surprised if the oil temp gets overly, brutally hot.... perhaps not over the 305F mark that jastel mentions, but events like BLISTER, White Pine Fever, ect are exceedingly difficult on the powertrain.
Which is not surprising.... loading the bike up to max GVW and locking the throttle at 8500 RPM for 24 to 48 continuous, non-stop hours in the mid-July Desert West.... this is some fairly severe duty, you'll agree. :blink:
On the FJR, it's Mobil One 15-50W red (or gold) cap (no starburst label, obviously). It's readily available most everywhere, and when on sale, not too shabby a price.
Between November-April, I'll switch to 10-40W Mobil One MX4T.... PacNorWest winters here in the steppes and plains in the High Desert of eastern Washington can make conventional oils the consistancy of pudding (ok, slightly exaggerating here, but....)
However, for the XX and the R1, I have made the leap to a slightly more expensive synthetic, which may or may not be superior to the MX4T stuff, but I get a woody using it, so.... :lol:
The XX and R1 receive this delicious oil here: Silkolene 4T Pro-4 Plus Synthetic Racing Engine Oil
Yeah, it's probably way overkill on the R1 (where I use the 10-40W version of this Silkolene), but the Blackbird is another story. There are events where I wouldn't be surprised if the oil temp gets overly, brutally hot.... perhaps not over the 305F mark that jastel mentions, but events like BLISTER, White Pine Fever, ect are exceedingly difficult on the powertrain.
Which is not surprising.... loading the bike up to max GVW and locking the throttle at 8500 RPM for 24 to 48 continuous, non-stop hours in the mid-July Desert West.... this is some fairly severe duty, you'll agree. :blink:
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Toecutter
What would DoG do?
The world is our closed course.
Rickster
Well-known member
i'll weigh in --
Technically: Yamalube will work fine -- change as recommended -- you won't have problems.
But no different than extended warrantees -- if it makes you feel better about it, or more confident in the reliability -- use more expensive synthetics.
Personally -- I use MX4T in my Aprilia, Mobil 1 in my Trucks/cars, and Rotella T (synthetic -- blue jug) in my other cycles (FJR, V-Star, DR-Z, LT6500). Use OEM filters or Pureolator PureONE filters.
and I feel good about it... find what makes ya feel good -- and do that.
Technically: Yamalube will work fine -- change as recommended -- you won't have problems.
But no different than extended warrantees -- if it makes you feel better about it, or more confident in the reliability -- use more expensive synthetics.
Personally -- I use MX4T in my Aprilia, Mobil 1 in my Trucks/cars, and Rotella T (synthetic -- blue jug) in my other cycles (FJR, V-Star, DR-Z, LT6500). Use OEM filters or Pureolator PureONE filters.
and I feel good about it... find what makes ya feel good -- and do that.
automag928
Well-known member
On my VTX (also wet clutch) I ran Amsoil, never had any problems granted I didnt put awhole lot of miles on it in a year and a half. On my corvette however different scenario. In just under 3 years, I put over 50k miles on it. I originally used German Castrol 0w-30, and sent off for oil analysis reports. I met a guy on the corvette forums that wanted to do some testing, so we ran a few runs of amsoil and did the analysis after those. The amsoil outperformed the german castrol, enough to make a believer out of me. Keep in mind, I drove the vette like it was made for. It went to the 1/4 mile track, and was dyno'd a bit, and probably kissed 155mph a few times (on a closed course of course)
I originally wanted to use the mobil 1 mx4t and get that tested, but couldnt, so amsoil was my choice.
I originally wanted to use the mobil 1 mx4t and get that tested, but couldnt, so amsoil was my choice.
automag928
Well-known member
Sorry to revive an old, repeated thread... 
Toecutter
What would DoG do?
Better than starting a new one. :blink:Sorry to revive an old, repeated thread...
boogahboogah
Well-known member
Shell Rotella 10-40 synth plus a few ounces of GM assembly lube (extra ZDP)
odot
CC member # 17,----- DUP member # 7, mensa club m
Yuppers, puppers....amsoil....way to go.
tripletango
Well-known member
Shell Rotella synthetic available at wallyworld for about 15 bucks a gallon. Their super tech filters are just fine also.
However if you want to spend more money to make you feel that other products may be better, go ahead and feel good. The bike won't know the difference!
I think that you can get yamalube for a decent price if you look around on the net and if you buy the yammie filter too - well your life will be sanctified and you will live longer and happier according to mammy yammie or at least your bike will
However if you want to spend more money to make you feel that other products may be better, go ahead and feel good. The bike won't know the difference!
I think that you can get yamalube for a decent price if you look around on the net and if you buy the yammie filter too - well your life will be sanctified and you will live longer and happier according to mammy yammie or at least your bike will
automag928
Well-known member
Just throwing this out there - has anyone done oil anaylsis on all these different oils? I'm willing to, as long as I'm not duplicating work already done. I know we have resident experts on the matter, but similar situation on the corvette forum. Quite a few people over there know alot more about oil than I ever will, but having oil analysis' in front of you takes out any guestimates and opinions. It is what it is....
HaulinAshe
Well-known member
Of all the suitable synthetic brands mentioned above (Mobil, Rotella-T, Amsoil...), the BEST oil is the one that is readily available to you and has a price you are comfortable with, so that you will change it and the filter as scheduled.
Toecutter
What would DoG do?
Toecutter
What would DoG do?
Note to self: Pick up digital probe thermometer for last ditch attempt in case of radar detector failure.
"But officer, I was running a highly advanced test to see if I need synthetic oil".
With a first name of Robert, maybe I could convince him that I'm Bob The Oil Guy.
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"Wrong" Synthetic's also flow better when cold. They also run cooler. They also show less wear. They also leave less carbon deposits. There are many benefits to running Synthetic oils. These are already proven facts
. "I just couldn't help myself" :glare: Similar threads
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