cam chain tensioner

[FJRay]

I spent a fair amount of time doing the search thing on Google and looked at FJRtech but can't find my answer so at the risk of asking a question on Friday here we go.

Is there one of our self professed experts that has changed the tensioner themselves and has any words of wisdom on the process???. Mine is making a noise on occasion the certainly sounds like cam chain noise but then it is gone. The bike runs fine noise or not. It has 63k on it so it would not be a shock if it needs it. Is it required to replace the guides at the same time??? Thanks.

 

[huron52]

I spent a fair amount of time doing the search thing on Google and looked at FJRtech but can't find my answer so at the risk of asking a question on Friday here we go.Is there one of our self professed experts that has changed the tensioner themselves and has any words of wisdom on the process???. Mine is making a noise on occasion the certainly sounds like cam chain noise but then it is gone. The bike runs fine noise or not. It has 63k on it so it would not be a shock if it needs it. Is it required to replace the guides at the same time??? Thanks.

As for doing it yourself.... I can't say I didn't do it,but I watched it being done.

Mine was changed just after I have the valves checked at 87,000kms So that would be about 50,000 miles.

For me? mine stuck a couple of times so replaced it on the side of safety.

The guides were reported in good shape and were not replaced. They looked at the chain as well as the guides when they check the valves. I say check because they were within spec.

I was told thet they will need adjusting on the next check. Time will tell how much adjusting.

 

[Unicycle52]

I would suggest you replace the tensioner (or have it replaced). It has very fine teeth on it to hold the adjustment and they wear. If you attempt to adjust the current tensioner the teeth may not hold and if the cam chain tensioner slips out of adjustment and throws the cam timing out of position it can be a mechanical disaster (as experienced by another forum member). The knowledgeable mechanic that did mine under warranty also mentioned that part of the tensioning operation is assisted by oil pressure. Make sure your idle isn't set below 1100 rpms. Mine was replaced at 40K but I'm pretty sure it started making noise 5 - 8K before replacement. At idle you could hear it get noisy then quiet then noisy. They are known to need replacement around 35K.

Hope this helps.

Bill Hamilton

 

[FJRay]

I would suggest you replace the tensioner (or have it replaced). It has very fine teeth on it to hold the adjustment and they wear. If you attempt to adjust the current tensioner the teeth may not hold and if the cam chain tensioner slips out of adjustment and throws the cam timing out of position it can be a mechanical disaster (as experienced by another forum member). The knowledgeable mechanic that did mine under warranty also mentioned that part of the tensioning operation is assisted by oil pressure. Make sure your idle isn't set below 1100 rpms. Mine was replaced at 40K but I'm pretty sure it started making noise 5 - 8K before replacement. At idle you could hear it get noisy then quiet then noisy. They are known to need replacement around 35K.
Hope this helps.

Bill Hamilton

I understand what you are saying and it has been said in hundreds of posts. I was hoping to find somebody that has done the job themselves to get an idea of how much of a pain in the ass it is. Access to the tensioner is very limited with the frame in the way.

The tensioner is a mechanical tensioner and the only thing that oil pressure has to do with it is to supply required lubrication.

I guess I will grab a handfull of tools and dive in and see what happens.

 

[FJRay]

Just a follow up. FYI the tensioner is a pain to get out but with a bit of luck and a reasonable vocabulary it can be done.

It is not a ratchet type adjuster. It is a simple threaded collar with a spiral spring to add tension as the chain streches or the guides wear. It is so simple that I don't see any way for it to screw up unless the threads hang up or it reaches the end of it travel which is 1 1/8 inch. If it does hang up it is a matter of turning the screw clockwise and then release it to retension.

I did manualy put tension on the chain before removing the tensioner so I didn't run the risk of screwing up the timing.

Didn't see any strange wear on the guides and no residue in the area to indicate that anything was coming apart. Don't know if this will help anybody but thought I would let you know. No I didn't take any pictures and I ain't worth a shit at figuring how to post them.

 

[madmike2]

Just a follow up. FYI the tensioner is a pain to get out but with a bit of luck and a reasonable vocabulary it can be done.It is not a ratchet type adjuster. It is a simple threaded collar with a spiral spring to add tension as the chain streches or the guides wear. It is so simple that I don't see any way for it to screw up unless the threads hang up or it reaches the end of it travel which is 1 1/8 inch. If it does hang up it is a matter of turning the screw clockwise and then release it to retension.

I did manualy put tension on the chain before removing the tensioner so I didn't run the risk of screwing up the timing.

Didn't see any strange wear on the guides and no residue in the area to indicate that anything was coming apart. Don't know if this will help anybody but thought I would let you know. No I didn't take any pictures and I ain't worth a shit at figuring how to post them.

Wail naw...I s'pose yew kud puttem enta wunna them emailer things en Eye kud postem hear fer yuh., yuh big galoot!

 

[Colin24]

A bit late for you FJRay but thought I would chime in.

I replaced the whole cam chain system over the winter; Chain, Tensioner and two guides. My bike was to the point where it was regularily making horrible "Loose nuts and bolts sounds" while idling. So it definitely needed it. The bike had 92,000 km -- 50,000 miles on the odo when this was done. There is another thread somewhere where I talked about this work, but In short:

- Yes the tensioner can be changed in the frame. It does require patience and a variety of different tools. But it can be done! (Remember -- patience)

- Removing the bolt holding the idle adjuster in place allows the idle adjuster to be pushed out of the way giving more room to extract the tensioner.

- I am also suspicious that the tensioner could fail, mine looked and seemed to operate fine. And I agree that there seems no reasonable way it could fail. (But I replaced it and all related components anyways).

- I did a very close inspection of the cam chain and it seemed to be the culprit. It was very hard to detect, but the old chain did indeed look to be stretched (ever so slightly) compared to the new chain.

- To replace the cam chain you need to remove the timing plate on the right end of the crank. This means you need to hold the crank still while tightening and loosening. Which means pulling the alternator cover on the other side of the engine.

- While you are getting the timing setup for the new cam chain I used zip-ties to hold the chain on the correct tooth of the cam gear.

- In hindsight, I would have used some colored zipties on the gears themselves to "mark" their orientation before removing. I figured it out anyways, but the diagrams in the manual were not the best.

- The "tick" marks on the cam gears (on the cam shaft) are on the outside face of the gear. Which is fine when doing this and the engine is out of the bike. But with the engine in the bike the tick marks are facing the inside of the frame and are very hard to see. I carefully "scribed" my own tick marks on the back sides of the gears to allow me to see the alignment at a glance. I still did the final check using the factory marks, but while juggling the chain and camshafts it was nice to see the marks on the backside at a glance.

---------------------------

After it was all said and done, it was worth the effort. The bike sounds a whole lot better now. Smooth as silk when idling. And once underway there is noticeably more power out of the engine. I've only had the bike on the road a few weeks here and I've already had the front wheel in there more than a few times and I was hardly trying. I figured the engine would be a bit stronger but I am blown away by just how much stronger it really is.

- Colin

 

[Bobcattoo]

My 04(In for valve adjustment at Dealership) was just diagnosed with a loose cam chain. Tensor to its limit. Bike is still under YES warranty at 26K. Should Yamaha pick up the cost of this repair?

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Millions, literally, of these types of chains are used in the automotive/motorcycle industry as cam drive chains and elsewhere -- and, they don't wear-out in 26K miles.

I'd say "Show-Me" -- there's got to be an explanation for why your particular FJR needs cam-drive hard-parts replacement before it needs its first routine valve clearance check. Either all/many FJRs have bad cam chains?; or, your particular FJR has a warranty-covered particular problem?

At least that's the way I see it....

 

[FJRay]

Millions, literally, of these types of chains are used in the automotive/motorcycle industry as cam drive chains and elsewhere -- and, they don't wear-out in 26K miles.I'd say "Show-Me" -- there's got to be an explanation for why your particular FJR needs cam-drive hard-parts replacement before it needs its first routine valve clearance check. Either all/many FJRs have bad cam chains?; or, your particular FJR has a warranty-covered particular problem?

At least that's the way I see it....

I would have to agree. After having mine apart and doing some carefull measuring the only way for the tensioner to run out of travel is if the chain broke. There just isn't enough room in that area of the engine for the tensioner to extend over an inch. The total travel on the tensioner is 1 1/8".

After cleaning and reassembly I have had no noise issues but seem to have missed out on the horsepower increases others have claimed. I guess I will live with the stock 145HP.

 

[Bobcattoo]

Millions, literally, of these types of chains are used in the automotive/motorcycle industry as cam drive chains and elsewhere -- and, they don't wear-out in 26K miles.I'd say "Show-Me" -- there's got to be an explanation for why your particular FJR needs cam-drive hard-parts replacement before it needs its first routine valve clearance check. Either all/many FJRs have bad cam chains?; or, your particular FJR has a warranty-covered particular problem?

At least that's the way I see it....

I would have to agree. After having mine apart and doing some carefull measuring the only way for the tensioner to run out of travel is if the chain broke. There just isn't enough room in that area of the engine for the tensioner to extend over an inch. The total travel on the tensioner is 1 1/8".

After cleaning and reassembly I have had no noise issues but seem to have missed out on the horsepower increases others have claimed. I guess I will live with the stock 145HP.

Well I admit to being surprised at the diagnosis. But after reading of several similar experiences I'll assume the Dealership is correct. What would be the incentive to do extra work covered by warranty. Yes, Yamaha agreed immediately to cover replacement parts.

 

[08FJR4ME]

I just bought an 08 and I get a rattaling noise when I blip the throttle. Moreso when she's cold but it will also do it when warmed up. Sounds like something slapping around inside the engine. I am assuming it would be the tensioner on the timing chain. I will mention it to the machanic when i bring it in next week.

 

[GDSFJR03]

I'm not so mechanically inclined so at 72,000 kl I took mine, (03) to a reputable shop with the same "ratteling" noise, more so when it warmed up. Tensioner was stuck (If thats the correct word) open. Valves were also checked early (no issue's with check #2). TBS was done and I'm also happy to report a significant increase in power. No more noise. It feels good to have found a reliable mechanic. Parts were not replaced. Should I be worried ? Thank you Colin for the in-depth description of what gets done.