Low compression on 90k motor

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user 213

FJR DarkSider #1
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A while back I posted about my low compression and "worn out" motor, what Yamaha had told me and what the techs were telling me. With suggestions from the list I did some decarbonizing routines and oil changes, but to no avail, the compression continued to fall at approx. 5 psi per 1k miles. To review, minimum spec is 198 and I was down to 165, now below 150. I have continued to ride the bike. Uneven idle issues have plagued me as well as poor low rpm response and stumbles starting out from a stop or at low rpm parking lot speeds. Once up to speed it rides ok, but is down on power and would bog if you whacked the throttle.

New year's day I did a 280 mile rain ride to the coast for a RTE and during the ride it was brought to my attention that steam was coming out of my exhaust pipes, much like what you would see during cold start up on cold day, but more intense, and that there was a smell to it.

Fearing a head gasket issue, and having a long ride this coming week, I decided it was time to pull the motor and swap in a low mile '05 motor I had in the garage. (that's still in progress, but coming along well).

What I discovered upon pulling the motor was that the boots connecting the TBs to the airbox were all loose. None of the clamps were tight, and one had the ends not even connected by the bolt, which was just hanging there. There was a lot of crud on that side of the TBs, significantly more, darker and heavier and all around the diameter of the TB. The other side was quite clean, I suspect from fuel spray and the decarbonizing efforts.

The only time the bike has been worked on by other than myself was at the three valve check/adjustment intervals. Two of those were done by the same shop with very experienced techs. One was done by the local shop and a Jr. tech that had little experience of this level, (and zero FJR experience), and was following the shop manual to the letter. I was told by the Sr. tech, (who had been on vacation when the work was done), that "they took way more apart than necessary" when I picked the bike up.

You don't have to pull the TBs to do the valve check, but the shop manual has you do it as part of the "remove engine" sequence that leads up to pulling the valve cover. If you just follow the manual, I could see that occurring. I know I never took the TBs off or tore into the bike that far until now.

The steam may have simply been water getting in at the loose boots and entering the air/fuel mix into the engine, or I may have some head gasket issue, (both?), that is unknown at this point. It was raining heavily with 30-50 mph winds during the new year's ride over the entire 6 hours of riding.

What is known is that the service by the Jr. tech was at 60k, so that's likely 30k of riding with loose TB connections and likely some unfiltered air and crud entering the engine during that time. I've ridden gravel roads, desert playa and plenty of rain rides during that 30k. I now suspect this is the root cause of my early low compression, although it is certainly possible that there are other, as yet unknown, contributing factors. I consider the low compression to be early based on the number of FJRs known to me with higher mileage that are fine, and the bikes with comparable mileage that I've personally tested for compression and found to be w/in spec, or only slightly below it.

I'm not going to be tearing the motor down soon, so this is more a sharing post than one seeking advice. No way I could prove who left the TB boots loose at this point, or that it contributed to premature wear, so I'm not going after anyone with attempts for compensation. My talks with Momma Yamaha concluded long ago, so don't even suggest I go there. :rolleyes:

Again, I just wanted to share this info with the forum. I'm not seeking advice and that motor is out of the bike. I may rebuild it and keep it for when the '05 motor wears out, but I'm not sure at this point. If I rebuild it, I will share any other info on what is found at that time. Just adding to the collective FJR data base.

Eric V.

 
While I agree that nothing will come from it, I think I would mention the situation to the dealer anyways. Make it clear you are not asking for them, just point out what you found.

 
After the tick was fixed on mine I did a carefull inspection just because it is easy to overlook things. I found all the clamps loose on the throttle bodies. It ran fine and didn't make any difference on the sync but I think if I had not checked it would have turned into an issue at some time. Keep us up to date on the progress Eric.

 
Dirty air will indeed ruin ring seal in 30k. Atmosphere will enter the motor via the easiest route, if that be via the loose air box connections rather than through the filter etc, that's where it will come from, especially as the filter restricts more and more due to particle accretion (dirt gittin on it for those of you public skool grads).

 
A month or so ago I posted in "Other Bikes" about a fuel leak on my VFR after adding Stabil in anticipation of winter. While tearing it apart I discovered that all four clamps that secure the insulator/carb connections (do you still call that a throttle body?) were backed completely off as if for servicing. Clearly they hadn't retightened them after carb service two years earlier. Why is it so damned difficult for mechanics to button up afterwards? I'm not sure I'll ever be able to hand over my keys to a shop again.

Thanks for the update, Eric. Best of luck with it.

 
A month or so ago I posted in "Other Bikes" about a fuel leak on my VFR after adding Stabil in anticipation of winter. While tearing it apart I discovered that all four clamps that secure the insulator/carb connections (do you still call that a throttle body?) were backed completely off as if for servicing. Clearly they hadn't retightened them after carb service two years earlier. Why is it so damned difficult for mechanics to button up afterwards? I'm not sure I'll ever be able to hand over my keys to a shop again.
Thanks for the update, Eric. Best of luck with it.
Which is why many of us do it ourselves. Read the forum, learn from the forum, be the forum, all will become clear. :lol:

 
OCfjr, why would you expect the tech. (who is on flat rate) to do any thing

more than what (you) the customer is paying for?

 
OCfjr, why would you expect the tech. (who is on flat rate) to do any thingmore than what (you) the customer is paying for?
:huh: Been hiding under a rock? Techs are paid on commission now for the most part. And you may note that the only thing I ever paid to have done was the valve checks/adj. The rest I do myself. Including the motor swap now. Still, I sort of believe in the old school methods where you tighten the things you loosened. Silly of me to expect that from a dealer. :rolleyes:

 
OCfjr, why would you expect the tech. (who is on flat rate) to do any thingmore than what (you) the customer is paying for?
:huh: Been hiding under a rock? Techs are paid on commission now for the most part. And you may note that the only thing I ever paid to have done was the valve checks/adj. The rest I do myself. Including the motor swap now. Still, I sort of believe in the old school methods where you tighten the things you loosened. Silly of me to expect that from a dealer. :rolleyes:

Ya, I guess I have been hiding under a rock. Having spent over 20 years as a motorcycle tech (1973-86).

"Techs are paid on commission now for the most part" What do you think 'flat rate' is?

"The rest I do myself" Why didn't you do a proper 'nut and bolt' while doing your own maintance?

"I sort of believe in the old school methods where you tighten the things you loosened." I'm trying to

figure out why you would need to remove the throttle bodys to remove the valve cover.

 
I am by all means no tech. Low compression to me means bad ring or rings . Are you haveing any oil loss ?

 
I'm trying tofigure out why you would need to remove the throttle bodys to remove the valve cover.
Mike, as you know, it's not necessary. The tech was a noob with very little experience. And no supervision. The 'other' tech at that shop went on vacation and didn't come back until after the job was done. The noob took things apart that didn't need to be taken apart. I was told this specifically by the other tech when I picked the bike up.

Flat rate, to me, means one price for a job, regardless of the time it takes. Commission on the other hand would be a percentage of the job. I read that as a percentage of the actual labor hours, rather than a percentage of the book hours. But what do I know? ;) I sure know they get more of my money if it takes them longer at that shop. Not what a lot of places do, charge you book time and hope/push the techs to beat that time in order to make more profit.

@Zorkler - I agree. I had minor oil loss, but never significant oil loss like needing to add oil between changes. Light never came on, for example. No oil in the header pipes or blue smoke out the tailpipes. A leak down test showed top end and bottom end leakage. The compression test I did, repeated with oil in the cylinders, came up about 40 psi. That confirmed to me that ring wear was some of the problem, if not most of it. To re-hash, ring wear is specifically not covered by the Y.E.S., which I was still under at the time it was in the shop for investigation during the third valve adjustment/re-shim. It's been a stubborn mystery as to exactly what's going on, and what caused it. There was also idle issues, which now make a lot of sense with the loose connections.

Most of this is water under the bridge at the moment since a replacement engine now sits in the frame.

 
OC,

Really feel bad for you and your situation... almost typical production vs quality quandry when the job gets done at shops. Hope your replacement engine works well for you. I had similar situations with my repairs at shops and mentioned this problem to the heads in Japan.

Are you going to take the head off the old engine and see if there is carbon build up on the valves, etc?

Wishing you a speedy recovery.

 
Are you going to take the head off the old engine and see if there is carbon build up on the valves, etc?
One project at a time. :D

I've already had someone interested in the motor. I am considering rebuilding it for a spare to swap in when the '05 wears out in 100k or so, but haven't decided if I want to take up the garage space. I'll probably let it go to someone with more time, space and interest.

 
I am considering rebuilding it for a spare
A little offset grinding on the crank, some custom rods, high compression pistons ...
You Sir, are a BAD MAN! :lol:

I once spent $1k on a set of forged Carrillo rods. Never mind the rest of the engine. And besides, you'd want low compression pistons for the turbo kit...

 
Why is it so damned difficult for mechanics to button up afterwards? I'm not sure I'll ever be able to hand over my keys to a shop again.
Thanks for the update, Eric. Best of luck with it.
Which is why many of us do it ourselves. Read the forum, learn from the forum, be the forum, all will become clear. :lol:
Soooo true. And it could always be more serious then a loose hose clamp, you really have no choice but to do it yourself.

-Steve

 
My concern if the ring seal is the culprit, which your wet compression test says is the case, would be that the ceramic composite cylinder coating would be compromised. Can't just re-bore like an old cast iron cylinder. This has certainly been bad for you OCfjr, but the good news is we don't hear about this all the time. The theory about leakage of unfiltered air makes a lot of sense.

 
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