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Full Syn seems to be the problem.
How much is that stuff and how often do you change it?
Don't know because I haven't found it. Assuming near Rotella's cost. I change it to spec - every 4K. And yes, probably Delvac 1300 dino would be good enough. I must admit the Mobil 4T makes the bike quieter & smoother shifting, but of course that's comparing Rotella with 4K of use. I will re-evaluate in another 4K for apples to apples!

 
Is that what you use -- "Elf MOTO Sport 4 10W-60 Campione,Our Price: $36.93"?

Sure has good specs: PAO synth, 10W-60 viscosity range.

I assume the price is for the 5 liter case? Something like...$7.40/L.? (+ shipping)

That's probably what Valentino uses in his personal bike...... :blink: :unsure: ;)

I use 15w-50. 10w-60 will work fine as well, probably real wel for Texas, Florida, the desert.

Steve

 
QUOTE(Bruce @ Jun 21 2006, 12:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Jestal - Let's make this simple.What oil are you running in your FJR?

Same all seasons?

Thanks!
15W40 Delvac....which is Mobil's version of Rotella. That is in pretty much every motor I own.

QUOTE(Groo @ Jun 20 2006, 11:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
What if I added that magic STP gloop... that would help... right...?
laugh.gif

I'm pretending that I didn't see this......................................................
I've been scouring these oil threads and see they are a number of years old. Does anyone know if Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w-40 is the current day equivalent to the oil jestal was recommending? TIA

 
I knew you guys were waiting for this.....




















Don't get too upset over oil viscosity. The oil and lube guys have a general statement that "the engine makes its own viscosity" to stop any arguements about the fine points of viscosity, least the arguement go on forever.

The thicker the oil is in the bearing the hotter it will get until it thins out to the point that it stops generating heat from being sheared and then it stays at that viscosity. The thinner the oil is in the beginning the less heat it builds thru shear and the "less thinner" it gets. So...once the engine is up and running the engine will pretty much make the viscosity that it needs.

A bit of an oversimplication and you could argue the exceptions forever but fundamentally it is true and shows up repeatedly in high speed and high load endurance and dyno testing. This idea does sort of put a damper on the fervent, religous like decision on which oil viscosity to use....LOL.

No. Just No.

Where do people get this crap?

Put some 0W20 in there or maybe 85W140 gear lube and I promise you the engine won't ever "make it's own viscosity" like he claimed.

BTW, I'm an "oil and lube guy" and have yet to hear that false statement quoted above. Ever.

And yes, I'm an employee/owner of an oil company that makes waylubes, life test oils, cutting oils, soluble oils, quenching oils, blah, blah, blah. I'm very familiar with testing viscosities of oils.
So to kind of answer your question, Mobil makes an excellent 15W40 that you can use in your FJR.

As does Shell, Chevron, Kendall, etc.

 
So to kind of answer your question, Mobil makes an excellent 15W40 that you can use in your FJR.
As does Shell, Chevron, Kendall, etc.
Went with the Rotella T Triple Protection 15w-40

Good quality - check

Correct viscosity - check

Not energy conserving - check

JASO MA - check

Good price - check

I appreciate your input! :)

 
Don't have the manuals near but has anyone else read the 2016 owner's manual re: oil? For some unexplained reason they go to lengths to dis diesel rated oil.

From memory the specific admonition was against using CD rated diesel motor oil. Looked that up just now and CD dates back to 1955 but was modified in 1985 to support needs of 2-stroke diesels.

I have had good luck with Rotella-T and Rotella T-6 in other motorcycles. Delvac makes my BMW F800S shift right, something BMW's most expensive synthetic does not.

 
Don't have the manuals near but has anyone else read the 2016 owner's manual re: oil? For some unexplained reason they go to lengths to dis diesel rated oil.
From memory the specific admonition was against using CD rated diesel motor oil. Looked that up just now and CD dates back to 1955 but was modified in 1985 to support needs of 2-stroke diesels.

I have had good luck with Rotella-T and Rotella T-6 in other motorcycles. Delvac makes my BMW F800S shift right, something BMW's most expensive synthetic does not.
I have a PDF of the 2015 with me. You're remembering correctly. "In order to prevent clutch slippage (since the engine oil also lubricates the clutch), do not mix any chemical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified". I don't see "CD" in the Rotella T specifications. I don't see it in the Delvac on-line literature either....

 
It's on the oil rating "circle". I'm pretty sure that all diesel oils are rated CD. [edit] - I just went and looked and it is rated CJ, which is higher than CD, but the same diesel rating scale. Ref Link

That diesel disclaimer has been in the owners manual since the first gen 1s rolled off the line. Since then, there have been millions of miles accumulated with diesel rated oils.

Why on earth would any manufacturer ever say: "Do not use oils with... a higher quality than specified"

 
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Covered in an earlier thread. I'm the opposite of gearhead, but as I remember, something about a wet clutch on an FJR (not an X-rated movie term) and the need to avoid excessive anti-friction additives.

 
Covered in an earlier thread. I'm the opposite of gearhead, but as I remember, something about a wet clutch on an FJR (not an X-rated movie term) and the need to avoid excessive anti-friction additives.
I chose the Rotella T over the Delvac because it has been tested and carries the JASO MA rating. I <believe> this is a test of the friction characteristics intended to insure there is adequate friction for wet clutch applications, ie, it's not too slippery due to anti-friction additives.

So the Rotella may exceed the "CD" warning, but it does meet the API service SG or higher and has the Jaso standard MA. 2 out of 3 versus 1 out of 3 of the Delvac?? But the Delvac could very well meet the JASO MA if they tested it.....

 
Adam is right. The JASO MA rating is what defines its suitability for use with wet clutches. The diesel C"x" rating has no bearing on that. That "Higher Quality" is somehow less suitable still doesn't make any sense.

 
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That "Higher Quality" is somehow less suitable still doesn't make any sense.
I take that to mean they are anticipating newer ratings in the future which <could> make the oil more slippery due to additives and less suited for wet clutch applications?? But I'm not an oil expert.....

 
this Higher Quality is dangerous for our clutches...

In fact, in this kind of oil, you have certain additives that allow a better sliding of mechanical parts, and therefore more slow deterioration of certain pieces in the car engine, particularly on modern diesel with high pressure injection. When these additives come in contact with the disk-trimmed clutch, they seep into it ... So instead of having adherence, the discs become slippery ... if it's became, only discs smooth are cleanable, the others have to be change, the additives being penetrated...
So it's mandatory to respect at least the norme JASO MA.
If it's JASO 2006 (for oil who have old certification), it's JASO MA2
If it's JASO 2011 (most of oil today), it's JASO MA, JASO MA1 and the must stay JASO MA2

 
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