Steering head ring nuts

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Well said, Bounce! We need guys like Jestal & Rad to take pity on the rest of us & be available to snug up our fork bearings for us. Dinner & drinks sounds like a fair price to me.

Until that happens, I'm still gonna find an inexpensive alternative to that German overpriced socket.

dobias :glare:

PS: Has anyone replaced the ball bearings with tapered bearings on the FJR? Many years ago & in my former life, I changed the fork bearings to tapered on one of my three consecutive Goldwings.

 
Yep, there is a long socket made for the FJR. I've been thinking about it and I remember it was about $75 plus S&H...too rich for my blood.The "notched" hex nuts will accept a six pointed socket.

I guess I'll just have to measure it this winter while I have everything apart.

dobias :glare:
I repacked my steering head bearings this week. I used a socket (K-D 2467) that was in the tool box. I believed this fits Ford front wheel bearings on four wheel drive units. It is not the correct size but if you press the socket to the side with one finger it locks on. And you are just tighening to #37. Maybe you know someone who works on Fords?

 
Jersey Ed,

Thanks for your input. The KD 2467 appears to have four "prongs" & is 2 3/8 inches in diameter. I take it you engaged a few of the prongs into the nut's notches to make it work.

Curious! Doesn't the nut have six notches?

I just have to get down to the dealer & buy a nut or take the fork apart to examine it .

dobias :glare:

 
Jersey Ed,Thanks for your input. The KD 2467 appears to have four "prongs" & is 2 3/8 inches in diameter. I take it you engaged a few of the prongs into the nut's notches to make it work.

Curious! Doesn't the nut have six notches?

I just have to get down to the dealer & buy a nut or take the fork apart to examine it .

dobias :glare:
This thread is ancient, but I thought I'd get further docs on this KD2467 tool. It is way too big in diameter and has the wrong number of notches, but it can be made to work in a fashion because with the socket off-center, two notches line up well enough to be able to get some torque on on ring nut. I didn't try torquing it to the 50+ ft-lb initial torque, but I was able to use a torque wrench and the tool to get to the 13 ft-lb final torque.

Another tool that sorta works is the spanner commonly used to tighten the ring nut on old-style three-piece bicycle bottom brackets (the kind with a separate spindle and loose balls). It's basically the right diameter but the notch doesn't hold that well - I couldn't get more than about 30 ft-lbs on it.

- Mark

 
Call me anal (flame war ensues), but once a year before riding season I take special tool and calibrated torque wrench to hand, check the prevailing torque and wobble the forks with the front end unloaded to look for wear (yet to find any loosening of the nut on the last six Yamaha's), and re-torque to 15 ft. lb. High mileage/high speed riders may need more frequent adjustments than I've done. Hammers and drifts work, but you never really know what may cause a shaker. YMMV.

As far as the oil drain plug, I tighten mine the same as the rear end drain plug - 17 ft. lb. Same bolt diameter and thread. What's good for one should be good for the other. And put a magnetic plug in the oil pan for curiosity sake.

Gary in Fairbanks

 
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26$ plus actual shipping and you can have one. drives with same socket as upper nut.

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Very nice machine work, Roy!

I would like to get one from you as well, and have sent you a PM for payment information.

Thanks for offering this to us :yahoo:

Don

 
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