Wicked Webby's Recipe for Great HP and Torque!

[Fred W]

WW,

Can you provide detailed, step-by-step account of what you did and how that correlates to the dyno run for each of the mods?

The reason I ask for this is because it appears to me (from your prior posts) that the big airbox chop occured between runs #1 and run #3. But the biggest bump in the power at 4500 (the one I'm after) occurred between run #3 and #11. So whatever you did then was what boosted the power the most.

Now, that doesn't mean that the airbox mod wasn't part of achieving that bump. In fact it may be required along with whatever else you did between those runs, but clearly the airbox mod is not the ONLY thing. In fact, we would not know for sure if the airbox mod is at all required to get those gains unless you went back and put the OE box back in after having made the other changes that occurred between run 3 and 11 and saw a big drop.

It sounds like maybe all you did was add fuel via the CO setting. If so, did you try adding fuel via the CO setting with the stock box still in place?

 

[Lake Powell]

Very impressive job WW, I like the bump of HP and torque in the 4500rpm range as someone mentioned earlier.

Just a couple of questions;

Are you running a Power Commander, because you said that you still had the O2 sensor active?

Was there a noticable change or increase in intake noise?

Finally, what was it like on the road?

 

[Wicked Webby]

OK,

No power commander just the barbarian mod. During my multiple dyno runs.. +7 CO and no air box change gave me minimal gains..Some though. If I remember correctly, like 1 Hp and a 1/2 pound of Tq total gain.. However... I think there were some slightly better overall Tq/Hp gains in the valleys of the rpm range Yet not very significant. The trimmed air funnel was more significant. Our bikes in stock form(remember mine had the Remus Hexacones on when I am referring to stock here) weren't missing the fuel as much as the air. When I let in the massive amounts of air the bike responded very well on the dyno. Then the extra fuel from the upped CO levels helped even more.

THE AIR BOX IS WAY TO RESTRICTIVE. ITS A FREAKIN DAM!! THE VELOCITY STYLE INTAKE TUBES COMING OUT OF THE AIR BOX(you can see them inside the air box) ARE GOOD!! THEY ARE TUNED FOR POWER!!

Intake noise, noticeable but not excessive.. Hard to explain. Sounds good.. Doesn't bark like the exhaust... More like a aggressive hum under WOT.

As far as saddle time... Tire was way beyond GONE...7500 miles on it and hours or dyno time killed that dead horse again. Limped her home(ran well, no flat spots on the Highway)...parked her.... Waiting to change my tires out. In the mean time, I am adding my NEW tire pressure monitoring system and my reflective rear bag decals.

As far as the PWC goes.. I may or may not be able to dial in a couple more ponies with it. Though, this recipe calls for cheap HP/TQ and thats the way I prefer it. If I run into rideability problems with my setup it is always an option. BUT then.... back to the dyno I go.. So this is unlikely unless it is needed.

WW

 

[panayoti]

Excellent investigation and report with actual supporting data.

Thanks for your efforts .

It still amazes me about the quality of technical information found on this forum.

 

[Wicked Webby]

Panayoti,

Thanks for that!!

WW

 

[MCRIDER007]

No power commander just the barbarian mod. During my multiple dyno runs.. +7 CO and no air box change gave me minimal gains..Some though. If I remember correctly, like 1 Hp and a 1/2 pound of Tq total gain.. However... I think there were some slightly better overall Tq/Hp gains in the valleys of the rpm range Yet not very significant. The trimmed air funnel was more significant. Our bikes in stock form(remember mine had the Remus Hexacones on when I am referring to stock here) weren't missing the fuel as much as the air. When I let in the massive amounts of air the bike responded very well on the dyno. Then the extra fuel from the upped CO levels helped even more.

Webby, I am trying to understand exactly what you did to bump the HP from 133 with the modified airbox all the way to 138 HP. Did you do anything besides using the barbarian mod to raise the CO levels or was that alone enough for the 5 extra HP?

 

[DonRed7]

Interesting stuff Web and thank you for you time and effort in bringing it to us. Will be looking at my box more intently soon,...Just remember peeps be careful if going to the lengths per the pics and directions that there are NO bits of glue or sealing foam in excess that could let loose and be ingested....

??--I thought the Barb Mod only affected lower rpm emission/fuel control.

-Don

 

[Wicked Webby]

No power commander just the barbarian mod. During my multiple dyno runs.. +7 CO and no air box change gave me minimal gains..Some though. If I remember correctly, like 1 Hp and a 1/2 pound of Tq total gain.. However... I think there were some slightly better overall Tq/Hp gains in the valleys of the rpm range Yet not very significant. The trimmed air funnel was more significant. Our bikes in stock form(remember mine had the Remus Hexacones on when I am referring to stock here) weren't missing the fuel as much as the air. When I let in the massive amounts of air the bike responded very well on the dyno. Then the extra fuel from the upped CO levels helped even more.

Webby, I am trying to understand exactly what you did to bump the HP from 133 with the modified airbox all the way to 138 HP. Did you do anything besides using the barbarian mod to raise the CO levels or was that alone enough for the 5 extra HP?

MC,

Go back and read all I have posted. I will re-check it and make sure it is clear....

133 HP was the stock air box with the interior funnel trimmed only, stock CO... Modified air box tests came later along with the +14 CO.

DonRed7,

Barbarian values run the whole rpm range.. UNLIKE some have MISTAKENLY MISINFORMED.. The 02 sensor shuts down at the higher RPMs under WOT and then the ECU is making all the inputs(not being corrected anymore).

Good points on fabricating the filters!! Make sure you make your filters very study so as nothing can get sucked off um!

WW

 

[mfletch69]

Waiting to change my tires out. In the mean time, I am adding my NEW tire pressure monitoring system and my reflective rear bag decals.

What NEW tire pressure monitoring system are you adding?

 

[MCRIDER007]

MC,Go back and read all I have posted. I will re-check it and make sure it is clear....

133 HP was the stock air box with the interior funnel trimmed only, stock CO... Modified air box tests came later along with the +14 CO.

DonRed7,

Barbarian values run the whole rpm range.. UNLIKE some have MISTAKENLY MISINFORMED.. The 02 sensor shuts down at the higher RPMs under WOT and then the ECU is making all the inputs(not being corrected anymore).

Webby, I don't think everyone will agree with you that CO adjustments with the Barbarian mod will result in additional HP. The Barbarian mod was invented by one of our Forum members and this is his assessment of the issue.

As the fellow who first hooked an oscilloscope up to the FJR ECU and worked out the mysteries of the Barbarian Jumper, I'd like to say that there is virtually no risk of letting the smoke out if you follow the directions. I was playing with my own baby and took very careful measurements before I first grounded the ECU terminal. Thousands of bikes have been so modded in the last 3 years and I've not heard of a single damaged ECU. There is a far greater risk of damaging the wiring to the ECU by tugging away on the wires without having fully released the locking tab. This happened once early on. That is why the directions stress to push the connectors out, not pull on the wires to remove them.
As for the difference in the 03 vs 04: There really isn't a difference. Yamaha found out that we figured out how to access the adjustment so they stopped supplying us with the jumper, but the configuration remained the same. The use of the resistor was originally a precaution because I didn't have an 04 available to connect up to a scope. Subsequent testing reveals no quantatative differences in the ECUs. But the resistor works, so why mess with success?

As far as effects go, I think I'm pretty clearly on the record as stating that one should make proper measurements so that the adjustments are customized for each bike as required. There's no universal "magic number" that will help all bikes, or even all cylinders. People that have had the work done with CO measurements on a dyno report different results and different required adjustments for each cylinder.



Increasing the CO count increases the BASE injector duration. That is the single greatest factor determining total injector duration AT IDLE. As you open the throttle, the base duration does not change, but other factors (calculated mass air flow, etc.) increase the total duration so the base duration becomes a smaller and smaller percentage of the total. At high RPM and wide open throttle, the base duration is an almost negligible percentage of the total.

So: No, the Barbarian Jumper mod and adjusting the CO will NOT increase your peak HP. Ever. It MAY help in the low- to mid- range (this has been confirmed on a dyno). It MAY help low speed surge drivability issues. It MAY help reduce generated engine heat at idle. Those effects are ONLY possible if the adjustment was required in the first place.

It won't affect generated engine heat at cruise. It won't affect highway mileage. Once the bike gets rolling at moderate throttle openings, the system switches to closed loop mode and the O2 sensor controls the mixture.

I hope this clears up any misconceptions. Have fun, play safe but don't expect miracles.

 

[Wicked Webby]

SORRY MCRIDER,

No dis-respect to you here and don't take this the wrong way...BUT....

I don't really care what "everyone agrees on." I know the truth to this and have demonstrated the results and the dyno proof. Like I said before, I ain't selling nothing here, so I could care less if you buy it or not. I am only sharing my research and the AWESOME results for those who want more power.

The internet is full of bloggers, most don't know shit.. and even more people buying into the shit they spread. That being said, I am not saying your above post you quoted is not written by someone who doesn't know what they are talking about, or that it is wrong.. Just the way people interpret things and spread half truths regarding possible truths. Can you ask the guy that posted this blog where the FJR's mass air flow sensor is??

LETS GET BACK TO SOME BASICS HERE:

JUST ADDING FUEL VIA THE BARBARIAN MOD OR A POWER COMMANDER DOES NOT MAGICALLY ADD HP... UNLESS THE FUEL IS NEEDED(TOO LEAN OF A MIXTURE)....

WHEN YOU CREATE MORE AIR, YOU CREATE THE NEED FOR MORE FUEL, ALSO THE NEED TO LET IT OUT FASTER(EXHAUST).

IF YOU JUST ADD A BUNCH OF FUEL DELIVERY TO A STOCK SETUP.. YOU WILL PROBABLY, MOST LIKELY LOSE HP, BECAUSE YOU MADE IT FAT(TOO RICH OF A MIXTURE).

If you don't understand these principles, you should take some basic engine courses.

They are very informative and FUN!!

BTW. Tell the guy that posted that blogg, the one you put up, that you can expect very good/great gains when you know what your doing! And do it right!!

No defense is needed regarding what I have shared here.

WW

 

[MCRIDER007]

The internet is full of bloggers, most don't know shit.. and even more people buying into the shit they spread. That being said, I am not saying your above post you quoted is not written by someone who doesn't know what they are talking about, or that it is wrong.. Just the way people interpret things and spread half truths regarding possible truths. Can you ask the guy that posted this blog where the FJR's mass air flow sensor is??

BTW. Tell the guy that posted that blogg, the one you put up, that you can expect very good/great gains when you know what your doing! And do it right!!

His name is Dwayne Verhey (aka Torch) and is one of the most technically astute members of this forum. If you ever want to check/adjust your valves, he has a very good step by step writeup at:

https://fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html

....and he knows what he is doing... and you wouldn't have had a clue how to do a Barbarian mod if Dwayne hadn't figured out for you. :clapping:

Which brings us back to your airbox which appears to be the only thing that resulted in any HP change. I can see how a higher flow filter like the K&N could provide more air to the engine since they really don't filter much unless they are clogged with dirt, but a 6 percent increase from the airbox/filter change alone seems excessive since a very well designed ram air system does not yield a 6 percent increase in HP until the bike is going about 120 mph.

I suspect that Yamaha's airbox is designed to minimize the effect of negative air pressure at speed and that your modification is going to fall on its face on the highway when the vaccum behind the airbox starts sucking air out of the airbox. Don't be surprised if you have to downshift to pass traffic. This is pure conjure on my part since I don't claim to know anything about airbox design, but the first time I saw the FJR's airbox I thought that the whole air intake system would have to be redesigned with an air intake in the front if anyone wanted to get a significant HP increase from the FJR's engine. I might be spoiled since I have owned 3 ram air Kawasakis.

 

[painman]

Ok Webby, great job, now the question has to be asked. All this "extra fuel" that is being consumed, do you have a figure for us for miles per gallon? I'm paying $3.87 a gallon around here and um, gas is approaching the level of gold. So what are you now getting? PM. <><

 

[Wicked Webby]

The internet is full of bloggers, most don't know shit.. and even more people buying into the shit they spread. That being said, I am not saying your above post you quoted is not written by someone who doesn't know what they are talking about, or that it is wrong.. Just the way people interpret things and spread half truths regarding possible truths. Can you ask the guy that posted this blog where the FJR's mass air flow sensor is??

BTW. Tell the guy that posted that blogg, the one you put up, that you can expect very good/great gains when you know what your doing! And do it right!!

His name is Dwayne Verhey (aka Torch) and is one of the most technically astute members of this forum. If you ever want to check/adjust your valves, he has a very good step by step writeup at:

https://fjr1300.info/howto/valveadj.html

....and he knows what he is doing... and you wouldn't have had a clue how to do a Barbarian mod if Dwayne hadn't figured out for you. :clapping:

Which brings us back to your airbox which appears to be the only thing that resulted in any HP change. I can see how a higher flow filter like the K&N could provide more air to the engine since they really don't filter much unless they are clogged with dirt, but a 6 percent increase from the airbox/filter change alone seems excessive since a very well designed ram air system does not yield a 6 percent increase in HP until the bike is going about 120 mph.

I suspect that Yamaha's airbox is designed to minimize the effect of negative air pressure at speed and that your modification is going to fall on its face on the highway when the vaccum behind the airbox starts sucking air out of the airbox. Don't be surprised if you have to downshift to pass traffic. This is pure conjure on my part since I don't claim to know anything about airbox design, but the first time I saw the FJR's airbox I thought that the whole air intake system would have to be redesigned with an air intake in the front if anyone wanted to get a significant HP increase from the FJR's engine. I might be spoiled since I have owned 3 ram air Kawasakis.

I have heard a lot of good things about what Torch contributed. He sure did do a lot to try and better the FJR followers. Though, it doesn't mean he was right about everything(mass air flow sensor???).

You brought up a good example regarding Ram air systems(even though you don't seem to understand it)... The FJR does not have a Ram air system.... The air box is not tuned for pressurized air like a Ram system.... Just air volume in the box... and that hasn't changed....Thus, the FJR benefits greatly from opening up the doors to let more air in. And Yes, more fuel helps with this also. The velocity style air intake tubes coming from the air box are tuned for power and intake suction.

Nuff said.

Painman,

Sorry, I don't have any true MPG numbers yet BUT I will let you all know!! If it is too bad, I can dial the fuel back a bit for the road trips. The extra air(modded air box) with the CO's set at +7 still gave me more HP than the 133 mark. I think it was around 136 for that run.... BUT, I still have to get all the data from the other runs from the dyno shop. When I get it I will let you know the exact numbers.

Thanks for your input PM,

WW

 

[Wicked Webby]

Waiting to change my tires out. In the mean time, I am adding my NEW tire pressure monitoring system and my reflective rear bag decals.

What NEW tire pressure monitoring system are you adding?

mfletch69,

Check it out.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...hl=wicked+webby

Just got it a couple days ago. I will have it up and running this Tues.

WW

 

[MCRIDER007]

You brought up a good example regarding Ram air systems(even though you don't seem to understand it)... The FJR does not have a Ram air system....

There is an old saying that if you don't like the message then attack the messenger. :clapping:

The FJR does not have a Ram air system.....WOW.....that is really highly technical information you are sharing. :clapping: :clapping:

 

[ionbeam]

don't take this the wrong way...BUT....
I don't really care what "everyone agrees on." I know the truth to this and have demonstrated the results and the dyno proof.

In the technical fields, they ask, "Can these results be duplicated?"

The internet is full of bloggers, most don't know shit...Just the way people interpret things and spread half truths regarding possible truths. Can you ask the guy that posted this blog where the FJR's mass air flow sensor is??

What he said was, "calculated mass air flow"

 

[odot]

More instructions for the forum.

 

[Wicked Webby]

For those of you interested,

Had a fun little ride this morning,

Rode my FJR this am( it was nice and warm here, 40's, before the rain came) with the bald tire and all (road testing) a bit.. Very impressive power delivery!!! No flat spots or stumbles. No falling down or loss of power, even from less than 3 grand on up in 5th gear. NO RIDE-ABILITY PROBLEMS DETECTED WHAT SO EVER!!!

1st gear throttle wheelies came on :dribble: :dribble: :dribble: LIKE CRAZY!!!! :dribble: :dribble: :dribble: It lifted the front tire with ease(Houston we have lift off!!), was very controlled, this is the 1st time I have ever been able to grab 2nd gear during a throttle wheelie with this bike. Felt like I just strapped bags onto my dearly beloved 06 zx10r!!.

HOWEVER.... I do stand corrected on something....... The intake noise is, in all honesty, louder than I notice on the highway going home the other night. Not as loud as the exhaust BUT ... definitely taking huge gasps of air under heavy throttle(I like it!!).

Ionbeam,

Duplication is what this is all about!! Also, regarding some of the quoted statements by others:

So: No, the Barbarian Jumper mod and adjusting the CO will NOT increase your peak HP. Ever. It MAY help in the low- to mid- range (this has been confirmed on a dyno). It MAY help low speed surge drivability issues. It MAY help reduce generated engine heat at idle. Those effects are ONLY possible if the adjustment was required in the first place.

I have PROVEN this statement to be completely FALSE!!

Like it or not sour grape eaters!!!

WW

 

[NoCage]

I'm seeing some naysayers here WW. Fuck it... I appreciate your experimentation and posting of such. I'll be trying it. More air, more horses, I'm there.