Yet Another Audiovox Cruise Install

[maffud]

Pull the plug wires off the plugs by gripping the boot, not the wire.

Yeah, I got that!

I got it back together, and it seemed to get tight when I screwed the cap back onto the wire, so I think it's all good now. I tightened the others while I was at it, since this one came off pretty easily, and I could tighten all of them a half-turn or so.

Also, it seems I was fortunate that the bike was on the side stand (I don't usually work on it like that, but I had moved it out of the way last night to get my wife's car into the garage) and I spotted the screw sitting in a nook at the left edge of the engine.

So with a big sigh of relief, for those keeping score at home: The jumper is off the servo, the cover is back on the servo with both screws intact, the coolant pipe is back in place, and the spark plug wires for all 4 plugs are intact and reconnected.

And, with the use of a well-fitting screwdriver bit and needle nose pliers, I was even able to loosen the screw in the tang. So, I may yet be able to get this job done, and without removing the throttlebodies, to boot. Still don't know how I am going to get the additional nuts onto the screw, but at least it's more feasible now that the screw can be turned by its head. I did it once already, but it's lot harder when you also have to get the end of the beaded chain and a washer into place while you do it.

Thanks guys!

-Dan

 

[RadioHowie]

Ummmmm.....did you lube up the O-rings on the coolant pipe with some high-temp grease on re-install?

Hopefully you won't have any leaks.

We did mention lubing the O-rings, didn't we?

 

[Woketman]

Any particular type of high temp grease that is appropriate for the coolant pipe O-rings? And if we should lube those upon re-installation, what about the O-rings on the injectors when we re-install the fuel rail? There too?

Thanks guys!

 

[maffud]

We did mention lubing the O-rings, didn't we?

Actually, I don't recall seeing that anywhere. The FSM doesn't mention replacing the O-rings or adding grease, either.

I do remember seeing the suggestion to use 2-stroke oil on the injector o-rings, and I had planned to do that.

 

[RadioHowie]

Any particular type of high temp grease that is appropriate for the coolant pipe O-rings?

Nah...just "rubber safe" grease.

And if we should lube those upon re-installation, what about the O-rings on the injectors when we re-install the fuel rail? There too?
Thanks guys!

Used sparingly, it's not going to hurt anything. Hell, you could use spit if you want to. You just don't want the O-ring to "roll" when you re-insert the injectors.

BTW, grease is better than spit.

Actually, I don't recall seeing that anywhere. The FSM doesn't mention replacing the O-rings or adding grease, either.
I do remember seeing the suggestion to use 2-stroke oil on the injector o-rings, and I had planned to do that.

It's not mentioned, but it's just good practice. I learned the hard way first time I pulled the coolant pipe off my Feej. Used the same O-rings, that had been in there for 5 years, got flat and hard, and coolant leaked all over the place when I first cranked up after install.

Total cost for two O-rings from Ace Hardware?

75 cents.

Total coast for a new jug of coolant?

13 dollars.

Cost of hassle/annoyance I WOULD have saved with new O-rings from the get-go?

Priceless.

 

[maffud]

It's not mentioned, but it's just good practice. I learned the hard way first time I pulled the coolant pipe off my Feej. Used the same O-rings, that had been in there for 5 years, got flat and hard, and coolant leaked all over the place when I first cranked up after install.

Did you also clean out the ports where that pipe connects to the head? And if so, what did you use to do it? There was a bunch of grit in there on my bike. I blew it out with the air gun before I first took it out, then cleaned it as well as I could with some rubbing alcohol and q-tips when the pipe was removed, but it's still not as clean as I would like it to be. I was trying to not to brush any debris into the hole. I need some kind of tiny vacuum extension to get in there, I think.

 

[RadioHowie]

Did you also clean out the ports where that pipe connects to the head? And if so, what did you use to do it? There was a bunch of grit in there on my bike. I blew it out with the air gun before I first took it out, then cleaned it as well as I could with some rubbing alcohol and q-tips when the pipe was removed, but it's still not as clean as I would like it to be. I was trying to not to brush any debris into the hole. I need some kind of tiny vacuum extension to get in there, I think.

You did just about as much as one CAN do, other than fabricating a small, straw-like attachment for a vacuum hose.

Good job!

 

[Karmak]

Pull the plug wires off the plugs by gripping the boot, not the wire.

So, I may yet be able to get this job done, and without removing the throttlebodies, to boot. Still don't know how I am going to get the additional nuts onto the screw, but at least it's more feasible now that the screw can be turned by its head. I did it once already, but it's lot harder when you also have to get the end of the beaded chain and a washer into place while you do it.

Thanks guys!

-Dan

Hang in there, lots of patience & you'll get there-plenty of help here. Don't worry about losing small screws and stuff in the bike, it adds more character!

 

[Woketman]

Guys, I am attempting to finish the wiring, but am getting confused. I am talking about wires FROM the servo here, NOT the control pad. I have the Blue wire connected to the coil (got that much). But it appears, from all that I have read, that the Gray & Black wires (the ones that are together in a black sleeve) are not used. Is that correct? And the purple wire will go to 12 volts + when the brakes are applied (to cancel cruise) and the Red just goes to any constant 12 v +.

Is that right??? (I think so)

 

[wfooshee]

The paired black and gray are not used, correct. They go to the magnet-dot speed sensor kit that you'd need on some older cars. Purple wire, check. Red wire, check.

Technically, it should get its 12 volts from the brake light fuse, as the control logic compares that wire to the purple wire to "know" that the brakes have been applied. If it gets 12 volts from any switched source, then in the unlikely event that the brake lights don't actually work, i.e. blown fuse or something, the cruise will not disengage with the brakes because if the brake lights don't work, the purple wire never gets volts. If the cruise gets 12 volts from the hot side of the brake light circuit, it won't engage if the brake lights are dead, because that circuit won't have any 12 volts to give it. Designed-in safety thing.

Not really that big a deal, because it will disengage instantly just by grabbing the clutch, but since you're on an AE, that's not an option. All you have is the off button (or kill switch) if the cruise does not disengage with the brakes.

Problem is, the hot 12 volts for the brake lights is up under the nose on a GenII, not back in the back where you can get to it easily. It's the brown wire at the horns and the brake light relay (at the front of the battery box,) among other places.

As long as the brake lights work (which you should know by your pre-ride inspection every time you get on the bike, right?) than any ol' switched 12-volt source will work, like the blue wire to the tail lights. it comes down to a personal decision if you want to go the extra mile to find the brake light wiring at the relay under the nose to make it "absolutely" correct.

 

[Woketman]

Thanks Wfooshee. WOW!! Did you just finish your installation, or do you remember all that???

Well, I ran out of time tonight and I am spending the next three days solid with the kids. So perhaps I'll get this done next week. If I were not a cruise control addict, this would not have been worth it. But I have learned a LOT on the journey, thanks to all of you!

 

[wfooshee]

I've done a bunch of these units, including a couple on FJRs.

 

[Woketman]

In the immortal words of Orville (or Wilbur) Wright:

Success stop. Three cruise control engagements from 30 to 58 mph stop. Home for Christmas stop.

IT WORKS!!!! HHHhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

Only two issues: one) the engine burped on at least two, maybe three occasions. Might have sucked a bubble in the fuel line as the tank is VERY empty (last bar on the gage just started to blink) as I did not want a lot of gas spilling in the garage. Two) admittedly, I did not get up to highway speeds, just a local two lane by my house. But it did not seem to lock onto speed very well, hunting a bit. Might be my imagination. But I cannot help but wonder if I should have set the parameter on the cruise to higher than "low" on the sensitivity. One thing is for damn sure: I ain't gonna take that Audiovox servo out of there unless I HAVE to!!!!

Now I gotta shorten the wires and make everything permanent!!!

 

[maffud]

One more dumb question...

Is there some secret to getting the bead connector onto the bead chain? These things are CRAZY tight. I just broke one of the beads off the chain trying to pull it into the connector. I had cut the chain to what I thought was one bead too long, so I don't think the shorter length is a problem, but I won't know until I get it connected.

Seems this should not be so difficult.

 

[Patriot]

there's a diode in line with one of those wires...someone once made the mistake of shortening wires for neatness and cut out/removed their diode.

it's the wire with the red piece of tape in the middle of it

was quite a head scratching, frustrating experience over days and many redo's to figure out what was wrong. It won't stay engaged without that diode.

 

[Woketman]

Yeah, I spotted the diode. I was going to move that too and keep it.

Maffud, I had to deform the bead connector. As you stated: it was FAR TOO TIGHT!!! I hammered on it, caveman style, till I got it to open up a bit so that I could get the bead chain in. Then I re-compressed it with some big pliers.

 

[Patriot]

Yeah, I spotted the diode. I was going to move that too and keep it.
Maffud, I had to deform the bead connector. As you stated: it was FAR TOO TIGHT!!! I hammered on it, caveman style, till I got it to open up a bit so that I could get the bead chain in. Then I re-compressed it with some big pliers.

don't hook it...just duct tape a bead or two to the clip...

 

[NSrider]

Wfooshee, Where exactly is the brake light relay located? I have all the tupperware off my bike right now and may move the red wire to the brake light circuit at the front while i am at it.

 

[wfooshee]

Wfooshee, Where exactly is the brake light relay located? I have all the tupperware off my bike right now and may move the red wire to the brake light circuit at the front while i am at it.

My 2006 manual shows it at the front of the battery. Can't say it's still there for 2008, but it probably is. I haven't had the pleasure of undressing a Gen-II yet.

 

[RadioHowie]

I haven't had the pleasure of undressing a Gen-II yet.

Bet you have with your eyes.