You have been warned!

[yamaha1300rider]

I have had my 01 fjr for the last two and a half years and with the help of this forum have managed to do most of the servicing myself, including TBS and have fitted many farkles

However, yesterday I booked my bike in with the FJR Owners Club here in uk for a greasing of the relay and steering head.

FYI my bike has done 21,600 miles of which 20k were during the time I have had it. The steering head had been booked in for a greasing at 12k with a Yam dealer (but see comments below) but when I fitted the Wilber rear shock a year ago I was aware that I could not easily remove the relay arm completely for greasing and would eventually have to get a mechanioc to do it

I was shocked yesterday when the relay arm was removed and I was told that it was knackered

Here is a picture of the central collar:

Although the image could be better you can clearly see marks on the collar. This is not dirt but the damage done by the bearing not revolving. The other 2 collars were even worse. The bearings could not be removed without sending to an engineering company

Now I have been aware of the articles posted either on this website or to others (Bounce etc) but I had failed to appreciate:

1. The importance of greasing the relay arm every 12k

2. That it is not sufficient just to grease everything but to make sure the BEARINGS REVOLVE! To some of you experienced guys reading this, what I am saying may be obvious but it was not to me.

The upshot was a bill for either a part-exchange reconditioned relay arm (GBP 110) or a new one (GBP 200) - I chose the reconditioned version and left the garage a poorer man in pocket but a wiser one for next time

The mechanic told that he has yet to come across a dealer serviced fjr that has had the relay arm regreased and I am the 5th for whom he has fitted a new unit - I thought I looked after my bike but obviously not enough

And the steering head bearing? - the Yam dealer had NOT greased it a year ago although I paid for the job - I was told that dealers hate doing a steering head grease for fear of dropping the bearings (2 sets)

For GBP 90 for labour this was money well spent - I don't think I'll be tackling these in future myself.

In 12k time I will have done 34k - I'll get the Owners Club to redo the relay arm/steering head regrease AND the Swingarm

Regards

 

[twowheelnut]

Any chance of reducing the pic size?

 

[yamaha1300rider]

TWN:

Done!

(Wish the greasing of the relay arm was that quick )

 

[radman]

When I put my Wilbers in over last winter, I pulled that all apart and serviced it. The 2 end bearings have a weird plastic roller retainer that looks like solid beige grease-this is a roller locater and a solid lubricant for them-dont' get carried away trying to clean it out, you'll find it just falls apart. I replaced them, and the seals at all six points, for under $30. The center (relay arm) bearings are std torrington fare, they'll clean up normally. I greased the shafts, stuffed as much red Mobil1 into the end bearings as was practicable, and really loaded the seals with it, so as to try and prevent moisture intrusion through each side. At 16,000 miles, it was due, but no damage or rust was yet evident. Pressure washer users, and consistent rain riders beware-clean and lube often, and they'll last forever. Don't, and, well..............

 

[twowheelnut]

Lots of wet weather riding I take it. Best be looking after mine again. Thanks!

 

[Pappy]

I'm sorry but what'a "relay"? Swing Arm?

Pappy

 

[radman]

And the steering head bearing? - the Yam dealer had NOT greased it a year ago although I paid for the job - I was told that dealers hate doing a steering head grease for fear of dropping the bearings (2 sets)

Odd this, since these are caged ball bearings, which don't all fall out when serviced.

#16=relay. #19 is the shaft pictured above.

 

[yamaha1300rider]

QUOTE

And the steering head bearing? - the Yam dealer had NOT greased it a year ago although I paid for the job - I was told that dealers hate doing a steering head grease for fear of dropping the bearings (2 sets)

Radman replied: Odd this, since these are caged ball bearings, which don't all fall out when serviced.

Radman, I'll have to defer to your greater experience than mine

Strange though as they didn't look caged to me, nor in the Yam parts catalogue :glare:

 

[Metric]

Looking at the schematic, I am assuming that pin # 19 (X2), 25, 29, & 8 are the items to watch. Those and the roller bearings that ride on them. Am I close?

 

[radman]

Looking at the schematic, I am assuming that pin # 19 (X2), 25, 29, & 8 are the items to watch. Those and the roller bearings that ride on them. Am I close?

#25 is just a spacer, as is #8 for the swingarm-which has sealed bearings that are fairly well protected. It's the bearings, the collars that ride on them, and the seals that are the serviced items here.

Radman, I'll have to defer to your greater experience than mine
Strange though as they didn't look caged to me, nor in the Yam parts catalogue :glare:

Well, mine have a retainer, and I was as surprised as you at it's discovery.

 

[user 357]

It's the bearings, the collars that ride on them, and the seals that are the serviced items here.

Could you tell me what the part # on the chart is to reference to please.....

So I can explain it to my shop mechanic.....Thanks

 

[radman]

Could you tell me what the part # on the chart is to reference to please.....So I can explain it to my shop mechanic.....Thanks

22&24 are the bearings

19 are the shafts that ride on the bearing

32 are the seals

 

[user 357]

Radman.........

Thanks for your help...........

 

[jestal]

Along this line....I had mine completely apart also and installed grease zerks at all the pivots for easier maintenance mid season.

Putting zerk on the center pivot pictured is pretty simple. Just drill and tap the center of the pivot (right where the #16 points to in the illustration) and both those bearings will grease fine.

Putting a zerk in the end pivots is a little more difficult as you have to drill thru the aluminum of the pivot AND pierce the outer race of the torrington needle bearing. I drilled thru the aluminum and tapped for the zerk and then LIGHTLY touched the steel outer race of the rolller bearing with a carbide drill bit to pierce it. I took the rollers out first, deburred the tiny hole where the drill point pierced and reassembled.

I just give each pivot a shot of grease now instead of having to tear it all apart each time. I'll still dissassemble and inspect periodically but just not as often.

 

[user 357]

Jestal.........

Wow.........Great Idea......

Way beyond my experience tho........ :blink:

 

[wpbfjr]

see: https://fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=15

scroll to the bottom for pics of the transfer linkage...

still looking for the tech article someone wrote about installing the grease zerks...

 

[Groo]

still looking for the tech article someone wrote about installing the grease zerks...

Don't think this ? is it, but maybe it helps? I think twistyroads also did it (and wrote it up) on one of the older sites too...

 

[radman]

Don't think this ? is it, but maybe it helps? I think twistyroads also did it (and wrote it up) on one of the older sites too...

Thats the one, and IIRC he wouldn't do it again. The very close tolerances on the bearing/collar fit make injecting grease evenly iffy at best. If the bearing isn't evenly greased throughout it's circumference, it's an almost useless endeavour, as the collar has a very limited range of rotation, so that expecting it to distribute the grease throughout is hopeless IMHO. I ran into this after installing a Torrington equipped swing arm pivot assembly on a XS650 I made into a cafe racer. The grease looked for the easiest way out, found it, distorted the end seals, and grease found it's way to about 1/3 of the area it needed to. This was why the original swing arm pivot shaft was hollow, with a number of holes drilled into it to allow the grease injected into the end of the shaft to evenly distribute itself along it's length. Even that didn't work very well-one of the major handling problems attributed to the XS chassis was caused by worn swing arm bushings, which ground themselves to junk quickly, despite frequent lubing. If you aren't willing to do the work as jestal described, don't bother.

 

[jestal]

I would definitely put the zerk in the middle of the bearing and drill thru the race as I described. That gives the best chance of the grease getting directly into the bearing and distributing itself. I've done this mod to several dirt bikes with needle bearings in the swing arm pivots and links and it has always worked well. I use the zerk to give it a shot of grease occasionally but still will pull it apart each winter to check the bearings. Just makes a little piece of mind easier to come by mid season. If you put the zerk at the end and drill the hole so that it is at the end of the bearing I would doubt that the grease would make it thru.