Tubular handlebar adaptor for FJR?

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The bar inserts are made by the same company that makes the bars. I ordered them at the same time as the rest of the package.

My ignition switch bolts had already been drilled out when I installed the MCL riser plate. He had a jig that he sent with the risers that we had to return when we were done. You need cobalt drill bits to do it. I installed the switch with socket head (allen) bolts to hold the switch in.

Looks very nice.........
Couple of questions:

I assume you installed new bar-end inserts, what type did you use?

I assume you had to drill out the mounting bolts for the ignition switch, any problems?

Why did you go for the fat bars? why not go for 22mm bars?

Thanks

Don
 
The bar inserts are made by the same company that makes the bars. I ordered them at the same time as the rest of the package.

My ignition switch bolts had already been drilled out when I installed the MCL riser plate. He had a jig that he sent with the risers that we had to return when we were done. You need cobalt drill bits to do it. I installed the switch with socket head (allen) bolts to hold the switch in.

Looks very nice.........
Couple of questions:

I assume you installed new bar-end inserts, what type did you use?

I assume you had to drill out the mounting bolts for the ignition switch, any problems?

Why did you go for the fat bars? why not go for 22mm bars?

Thanks

Don
Thank you.......

 
I installed the ABM top triple- it was around $255 and then I put the Renthal high superbike handlebar on it, they're around $70.

I held the high superbike bar next to the medium superbike bar on the FZ1, and couldn't see much of a difference at all, they're very similar.

Bar ends were 42.5 inches off the ground before the conversion and it's almost the same now, so height wise, it's very close to where it was before the conversion, maybe a touch lower, but the grips are angled outward more.. my stock bars had my wrists bent because they were angled in too far.

Vibration seems better- I have a very mild vibration between 65 and 80, but it's only tingly, not hand numbing, and I don't have any bar weights at all on it yet.

I have some Rox risers and I'll probably install those and play around with them a bit. Since they rotate, they're very versatile.

I'll have 2 inches that can be straight up, straight back, or anything in between.

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Nice looking set-up FLT!

Notice the controls look very tight on both sides. Any problems squeezing everything together?

--G

 
Any miles yet Bryan? You will know for sure by the time you get done with the AK trip.
Not yet, but just sitting on it, I can feel a huge difference. Feels a lot more like my dirt bike handlebars, the angles are correct for me. Plus I have a lot of adjustability to fine tune them too.

 
Nice looking set-up FLT!
Notice the controls look very tight on both sides. Any problems squeezing everything together?

--G
That was the biggest thing I ran into, and it's specific to these bars- there wasn't quite enough room on each side for all the controls, and the brake perch and clutch perch are mounted right at the beginning of the bend.

 
Sweet Auburn FJR! With the Vario-Lenkerverlegung adapters and the myriad of Fat Bars available, everyone should be able to find the perfect fit! Now that I'm back to riding my DR650 almost exclusively with the warmer weather I can take all summer to convert over. Thanks for the project!

 
Very nice setup indeed. Where and how to you mount the ignition lock?
Ignition switch mounts at the concave space on clamp in similar place as OE. The plastic bezel trim piece isn't reused. Look at Auburn's pic on page 4 and you can see two threaded holes for the switch bolts.

--G

 
Any miles yet Bryan? You will know for sure by the time you get done with the AK trip.
Not yet, but just sitting on it, I can feel a huge difference. Feels a lot more like my dirt bike handlebars, the angles are correct for me. Plus I have a lot of adjustability to fine tune them too.
Heading out to test it this weekend.

 
We got a chance to do a test run with our Alaska load out last weekend. Went up to the Sol Duc Hot Springs in the Olympic National Park. A good 200 mile each way test run. Camped for the night.

Right out the gate, the tire cover that we used to protect the spare tires from dirt and debris was an issue. Acted like a wind sock. But the trailer was not towing like usual either. I took them off the tire rack ad pout them on top of the trailer which added a little more tongue weight and eliminated the sail (wind catcher) too. Trailer towed great, rock steady, no swaying.

This is up in the campground showing the best configuration. It will be on the heavier side of 10% tongue weight, but it is where the trailer seems to be the happiest and doesn't affect the bike. The rack system is awesome, works really well.

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The other thing I was testing was the new handle bar system. It was better than expected. No issues with sore arms, wrists, or hands. No vibration at all. No back pain, I could sit up straighter, although that means my V-Stream doesn't protect as much as I would like it too. But I can't get a taller one. This is the first time in years that I didn't have some wrist or arm pain during a ride.

 
Very nice setup indeed. Where and how to you mount the ignition lock?
I was concerned about that as well, but it's simple. Once you have removed your ignition from the old triple clamp, it mounts to the bottom of the new triple with 2 supplied bolts and spacers into the tapped holes in the bottom of the triple clamp.

Couldn't be easier.

triple_clamp.jpg


 
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AuburnFJR,

I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on this setup and just wanted to double check a couple of things:

1. Could you pls confirm that you did NOT need to extend/replace any of the hydrophilic hoses or electrical lines?

2. Could you pls let me know why you didn't buy the 1 1/8" (28.5mm) risers in the first place, i.e. you got the ABM risers in 7/8" (22mm) than opted for the Vario Converter from 22mm to 28.5mm to accommodate the Fat Bars.

Below is a snapshot of what I'm planning on buying for this conversion:

Screenshot_2019-08-12%20Bikermart%20-%20Your%20shopping%20cart2.png


 
AuburnFJR,I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on this setup and just wanted to double check a couple of things:

1. Could you pls confirm that you did NOT need to extend/replace any of the hydrophilic hoses or electrical lines?

2. Could you pls let me know why you didn't buy the 1 1/8" (28.5mm) risers in the first place, i.e. you got the ABM risers in 7/8" (22mm) than opted for the Vario Converter from 22mm to 28.5mm to accommodate the Fat Bars.

Below is a snapshot of what I'm planning on buying for this conversion:

Screenshot_2019-08-12%20Bikermart%20-%20Your%20shopping%20cart2.png

#1 - I did not have to extend any hydraulic or electrical lines. The throttle cables were fine also. You do have to cut off the stock holder that keeps the hydraulic hoses grouped together. I used a tie wrap after I had everything adjusted. (Mine was removed during the key switch recall.)

#2 - I don't believe the 28mm SW Motech vari-riser was available when I bought my kit. (or I never saw that option)

#3 - I did use their fat bars.

I have about 10,000 miles on the bike since I did the conversion. No issues, no sore wrists, vibration is almost completely eliminated.

I really do like the set up and think it was well worth the money I spent on it.

 
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Thanks for the reply AuburnFJR, I've gone ahead and ordered the parts.

I'm currently running a Helibar top triple clamp and risers, I have previously remove the cable guide as part of the ignition switch replacement.

I'm really hoping I can get the same improved ergo results as you have, that's been the biggest annoyance on this bike since the start. Not so bad when slicing and dicing through twisties, but anything else and the same issues you've described start creeping in...

 
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Thanks for the reply AuburnFJR, I've gone ahead and ordered the parts.I'm currently running a Helibar top triple clamp and risers, I have previously remove the cable guide as part of the ignition switch replacement.

I'm really hoping I can get the same improved ergo results as you have, that's been the biggest annoyance on this bike since the start. Not so bad when slicing and dicing through twisties, but anything else and the same issues you've described start creeping in...
The nice thing with this system, is you can always get a different bend on the fat bars to as well as the infinite adjustments the system affords. It really exceeded everything I was hoping for. Hope it does for you too.

 
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