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2007 SUSPENSION GROUP BUY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Another possibly dopey question.

I had the local dealer put in hyperpro front springs two seasons ago. Is there a choice here that says, keep the springs and do the rest to the front, or is the better answer to just man up and go for the whole rebuild?

 
Any ballpark prices on round trip shipping on fork tubes and shocks to the east coast?
Sounds like you should go figure this out at UPS.com and report back. It will probably vary between $30 and $200 depending on the specific destination, mode, company, and speed of service you choose.
And weight, which isn't readily available as far as I know. I thought since they ship suspension parts around the USA, they'd have a shipping estimate available.
 
And weight, which isn't readily available as far as I know. I thought since they ship suspension parts around the USA, they'd have a shipping estimate available.
Since "they" probably won't be responding to this thread I'd guestimate 35 pounds...and see if 5 pounds either way really makes that much difference.

 
I did the last GB and before i had taken the bike off the lift, I got a new spring for the shock in the mail. GP Suspension had recalculated the loads and resized the spring and then just mailed it!

[SIZE=18pt]AWESOME[/SIZE]

 
Awesome deal on the suspension. I don't want to do the install myself as I heed Warchild's advice. If anyone knows of reliable suspension shops anywhere in Denver or 200 miles from, then pls pm me and give me the info. If I can't find a shop nearby I'll have to wait..... :(

Hey, I've been waiting a long time for a date with Jessica Biel. Is this the gb in January? :yahoo:

 
Group Buy stats at the end of Day 2:

Totals to date:

Fork Upgrades: 17

Penske shocks: 8

Ohlins shocks: 2

Wilbers rebuilds: 8

Eiback forks springs: 6

 
Ok...This is probably a bit redundant and for that I appologise in advance. I am looking at a complete rebuild on the forks and using the 8983 Penske on the back. I have tried to search for more info on suspension mods for "2up" riding but have had little success. 90% of my riding is done solo. If I sign up for the 8983 and the complete fork overhaul have I pretty much covered my bases? Is there anything else I should do to add adjustability for the "2up" scenario? My wife adds about 150 to the equation. I can pretty much get what I want here since I am selling it to her based on passenger comfort and safety. Sometimes its a real PITA to have an accountant for a wife :glare:

On the other hand I will retire relatively young<---- Added just in case Sandra Jean checks in from time to time :unsure:

 
If I sign up for the 8983 and the complete fork overhaul have I pretty much covered my bases?
I believe you have.

I am reasonably sure the Penske has some type of remote pre-load method, which is the only real concern for you here. Adjusting the pre-load manually via the knuckle-busting 'C'-spanner can be a complete ass-pain.

 
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I believe you have.
I am reasonably sure the Penske has some type of remote pre-load method, which is the only real concern for you here. Adjusting the pre-load manually via the knuckle-busting 'C'-spanner can be a complete ass-pain.
Thanks much. I need no more ass-pains. I will probably be on the list by Saturday evening

 
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I am reasonably sure the Penske has the remote pre-load option, which is the only real concern for you here. Adjusting the pre-load manually via the knuckle-busting 'C'-spanner can be a complete ass-pain.
Someone should confirm this with Dave but I don't think any of the Penske shocks have a remote preload adjustment option like you can get on the Ohlins or Wilbers. Penske uses a collar at the top of the spring for preload adjustments. That collar has about 8 round holes in it that you manually turn with a short hand held bar. It is really easy to do when the shock is off the bike but I don't know how much access you have to the adjusting collar when it is installed. Last month I helped a friend install the 8987 shock on a 06 FJR and it was a pretty tight fit.

 
Two questions WC...

1. Is the sign up form a "commit to buy"? I want to get in on this but, my cage just decided it needs $650 worth of brake work. And I'm looking at heated gear. And, it's Xmas.

2. This may already be a detail you are working through but what will be the time period for the owner to have the work done? I may not be able to get to their shop until late January or March. Also the tick repair will put her out of commission for a couple of weeks.

 
Two questions WC...
1. Is the sign up form a "commit to buy"? I want to get in on this but, my cage just decided it needs $650 worth of brake work. And I'm looking at heated gear. And, it's Xmas.
No, it is not.

If you sign up for the GB and then find you are unable to complete the transaction, no harm, no foul. Just let GPSuspension know, and that's that.

2. This may already be a detail you are working through but what will be the time period for the owner to have the work done? I may not be able to get to their shop until late January or March. Also the tick repair will put her out of commission for a couple of weeks.
This is an issue between the vendor and yourself. I believe GPSuspension can accommodate you, but again, this is between you and the vendor.

 
Mind you, the fork overhaul/upgrade is truly the critical piece of the puzzle here. If cashflow is the sticky point, do the forks now, then endeavor to get the rear shock sorted before heavy-duty riding season kicks in next year.
How would the bike ride with just the forks if I were to not do the rear any time soon? I wouldn't likely be able to do a shock until next winters farkle season. I've only got 4500 miles on the bike so I have to believe the rear has some life left. I'm mainly interested because have the mild clunking sound in the front on big slow bumps.

 
How would the bike ride with just the forks if I were to not do the rear any time soon? I wouldn't likely be able to do a shock until next winters farkle season. I've only got 4500 miles on the bike so I have to believe the rear has some life left. I'm mainly interested because have the mild clunking sound in the front on big slow bumps.
Would need to know a lot more info about your riding style, riding environment, and about 101 other factors to really answer this question properly.

Regardless, the sole fact your rear shock only has 4500 miles on it would seem to suggest you probably would be just fine until you can sort the rear suspension.

 
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Addressing a couple more questions that have been asked....

Penske shock remote-preload: Neither model Penske shock has a remote hydraulic preload like other shocks, however, it does NOT use the knuckle-busting 'C'-spanner wrench adjustment method to adjust pre-load. Penske uses a long thin adjustment rod that comes in from the side of the bike to adjust pre-load. You might think of this as a "manual" remote pre-load adjustment (sorta-kinda).

Ohlins Remote Preload and Ride Height: Yes on the former, no on the latter. The Ohlins does not have the Ride Height adjustment capability, but does have remote hydraulic pre-load. Pick your poison. Do be aware you can not use the 6mm shim trick previously discussed to raise the ride height, as the shock mounting bolt arrangement on our bikes does not lend itself to the shim trick.

 
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Thanks for clarification WC.

For me, the lack of a ride height adjuster on the Ohlins is a big drawback. I don't think I'm alone in having cornering clearance issues on this bike, and the ability to jack the rear end of the bike up a bit really helps. You can certainly do it with preload and that's what many of us are doing - by simply running the suspension in the "hard" position all the time and also sometimes using the "shim trick" to add even more preload. But raising ride hight by preload is not ideal as it tends to top out the suspension at rest and over rises essentially giving you no suspension when the shock tops - you're giving up some of your suspension travel. Preload really is designed to handle situations where you are temporarily adding load, not as a way to permanently adjust chassis attitude.

Anway, I'm going Penske.

- Mark

 
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I want the full fork job, my question is can i get the Penske 8983 with a remote pre-load adjuster? If not how hard is it to adjust the pre-load for 2up trips without the remote adjuster? Thanks Warchild for getting this done, this is what I wanted for christmas.

 
I want the full fork job, my question is can i get the Penske 8983 with a remote pre-load adjuster? If not how hard is it to adjust the pre-load for 2up trips without the remote adjuster? Thanks Warchild for getting this done, this is what I wanted for christmas.
I answered this in my last post. :)

While the Penskes do NOT have remote hydraulic adjustment, the manual method they use makes it a trivial exercise to adjust preload. No knuckle-busting 'C'-spanner that is common in many shocks.

 
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