"Dirt" tires on an FJR

[Bounce]

I've done deep gravel for about 50 miles. It was on regular tires and it's wasn't done quickly.

 

[RossKean]

From what I've found the FJR does extremely well with its regular street tires on hard packed and lightly graveled dirt roads.  I've ridden thousands of miles of the dirt roads in western North Carolina state and national parks without changing anything.  Now that you've specified what kind of riding you're looking at I won't change anything to ride more. 

Don't overthink it without first trying it.

I agree with you when it comes to somewhat ideal unpaved roads close to civilization.  In retrospect I described the intended or expected roads in terms that were likely too "civilized".  What I was trying to say is that I wasn't planning to use the FJR for rough trail riding or completely off-road.  You can plan on the unpaved roads being in great condition but that is not always the case.  Not an issue for a day trip but your choices are fewer when on a multi-day excursion; especially when alternate roads are not available.  While the Trans Labrador Highway has more paved sections now, there are significant unpaved sections and LOTS of construction.  Fresh deep (loose) gravel or newly graded dirt are hard to manage on street tires.  Throw in a bunch of rain and I am not at all comfortable.  Slick deep mud is bad stuff.  While I might like to make a rainy day a "hotel day", there are not exactly a bunch of amenities along the way!

Not only will the dual sport tires handle the mud, sand and loose gravel better, but they will have better resistance to puncture from sharp rocks found in some gravel.  This is an important feature for this type of longer ride in a remote area - especially since most of this region is outside of cell service range and some places are hundreds of kilometers from any sort of service (even gas).   Bad place to have a flat that can't be repaired with a sticky string at the side of the road.

If you could manage to flag down a passing motorist (few, mostly trucks) and you could communicate (mostly French speaking) and you could get them to send out a service vehicle at their next stop a few hours later, the tow would cost you several hundreds of dollars (even with AAA or CAA coverage).  (While you are waiting at the side of the road, the mosquitoes and black flies will be having you for lunch!)  Edit:  You do NOT want to spend a night at the side of the road in that region!!!

https://goo.gl/maps/pSzCnrtgtVgQCHHn6

Same applies to the Haul Road in Alaska.  Much is likely to be paved or good dirt but new construction, grading and rain can change that in a hurry.

I've done deep gravel for about 50 miles. It was on regular tires and it's wasn't done quickly.

I have encountered the same (unexpectedly) on the FJR.  A couple of years ago, I hit a construction section in a national park.  Signage wasn't very specific so I figured it was only a couple of kilometers at most.  Expected it to end so I just kept on going (slowly) through loose, deep very coarse gravel for what turned out to be 30 km or so.  A white knuckle experience.  Other than puncture resistance, I don't know if dual sport tires would have helped a lot - this was bad stuff.  Four to six inch depth of unpacked gravel in sizes ranging from golf balls to tennis balls and lots of pointy bits.   Needed a bike 200 lb lighter that would have been less damaged in the event of a tip over.  An extreme example and if I expected to encounter this again, I would postpone the trip no matter what tires I was using.

 

[Bounce]

I have encountered the same (unexpectedly) on the FJR.  A couple of years ago, I hit a construction section in a national park.  Signage wasn't very specific so I figured it was only a couple of kilometers at most.  Expected it to end so I just kept on going (slowly) through loose, deep very coarse gravel for what turned out to be 30 km or so.  A white knuckle experience.  Other than puncture resistance, I don't know if dual sport tires would have helped a lot - this was bad stuff.  Four to six inch depth of unpacked gravel in sizes ranging from golf balls to tennis balls and lots of pointy bits.   Needed a bike 200 lb lighter that would have been less damaged in the event of a tip over.  An extreme example and if I expected to encounter this again, I would postpone the trip no matter what tires I was using.

Sounds similar, The stuff I was on was smaller sized (more like the typical stuff used for chip-and-seal but without the seal and deeper than the height of the rims. Loosy-goosy, stand-on-pegs, keep arms loose (but do-able).

I can't over emphasize picking the right tool for the right job though. If this is something that's "expected", then picking something to overcome it isn't a matter of picking the right tires for the wrong bike.

 

[RossKean]

I can't over emphasize picking the right tool for the right job though. If this is something that's "expected", then picking something to overcome it isn't a matter of picking the right tires for the wrong bike.

There is always a better tool.  I am looking to use a regular hammer when a framing hammer might be more appropriate - not a job that requires a 5 lb sledge. 

This is by no means an extreme riding experience but the investigation into tire options is to see what could be done to mitigate issues raised by possible adverse conditions - wet mud or areas under construction with fresh grading/gravel but not compacted.  For the most part, the Trans Lab is expected to be in pretty fair condition BUT there is (will be) significant construction in some areas and it is very remote.  Help is NOT just a phone call away.

No question that an "adventure" style bike would be better but the ride should certainly be within the capability of the FJR.  Won't be an issue this year unless travel restrictions are lifted...