Aasland
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So the seller sends me four photos of their compression test - about 208-210 psi each.
Is it possible to have good compression and fail the leak-down test?
Is it possible to have good compression and fail the leak-down test?
If it's not on tdc when the leak down is done then it's possible.So the seller sends me four photos of their compression test - about 208-210 psi each.
Is it possible to have good compression and fail the leak-down test?
TDC is when the cam lobes point away from each other?If it's not on tdc when the leak down is done then it's possible.So the seller sends me four photos of their compression test - about 208-210 psi each.
Is it possible to have good compression and fail the leak-down test?
Yes, close enough w/o measuring.TDC is when the cam lobes point away from each other?If it's not on tdc when the leak down is done then it's possible.So the seller sends me four photos of their compression test - about 208-210 psi each.
Is it possible to have good compression and fail the leak-down test?
Then I did it right. Hm. Either the seller took photos of the compression test on a different engine, or I'm still not doing something right.Yes, close enough w/o measuring.TDC is when the cam lobes point away from each other?If it's not on tdc when the leak down is done then it's possible.So the seller sends me four photos of their compression test - about 208-210 psi each.
Is it possible to have good compression and fail the leak-down test?
--G
Good point. Also, the lack of any .. and I mean ANY ... carbon in the intake tracts seem to make the case that they do seal well. But I would still like to get that crud off the valves.Typically, you are supposed to do a compression and/or leakdown test on a warm engine. Also, I usually would do both cold and warmed up, but I'd bet you a warm engine will give you better results (hint, it always does). The reason for warm is so that all metal parts have expanded and oil got splashed on where it should go (cylinder walls, etc.). IF on a warm engine, compression is not reasonably uniform between cylinders, one repeats the test after a spoonful or two of oil was put into the spark plug holes. This seals the rings so you then know if it is rings or valves. Leakdown would confirm valves.
That's the conclusion I reached yesterday too - more so considering that we have 3-4 weeks until weather lets me ride anyway.I'd also wager the rings are not the problem on a low mileage engine. But, not having the ability at this point to fire the engine up, you're going to get potentially misleading results when cold....... One option is of course to swap out heads from your known good engine, or better yet in my opinion, would be to get the valves redone on the existing head (maybe they just need to be lapped). Now you know your valves are good.
Yep. So I pulled the head last night - took maybe 15 minutes, and placed an order for the new gasket and bolts ($50).Of course, all easier done while the engine is out.
I'll do this myself - already have (most of) the tools from when I did that my dad's old kz1100.take the head to rebuilder shop and have the valves lapped....
I appreciate the rest of your post, but this was the part I wanted to highlight, because I've noticed the same thing. Everything has been engineered good enough to work well, and not made any fancier than it has to be, which reduces reliability and makes it difficult to service (think: Audi).Was always impressed with how the FJR was built.
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