Long-Distance Endurance MT10 Project

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A friend of mine turned me on to E6000 glue for applications like this. We use it in the Jeep to glue all sorts of farkles to the dash, Vector Bar, etc. Smells like shoe glue. Stays flexible and sticks like crazy even when we're bouncing around on rough terrain! Yet it's surprisingly easy to pry things off when you want to move stuff around. Bonds to glass, wood, plastics, tin, metal, ceramic, cement, rubber, vinyl, leather, fabric. https://www.amazon.com/E6000-231020-Adhesive-Precision-Tips/dp/B00JP3X9WE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3CGXBZD4NASSZ&keywords=e6000&qid=1682171479&sprefix=e6000,aps,196&sr=8-2JeepDash.png
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Your knowledge here is vastly superior than mine but I'd have to tether that somehow. I just don't trust Velcro and its ilk to last, especially in the heat.

And I'll take this opportunity to say thanks for posting this build here. Not only has it been enjoyable to follow along but it's a damn cool looking bike too.
I suspect 3M Dual Lock is what Warchild is using. Mechanical Velcro indeed. :LOL: LD riders have been using this great product for decades. It does not come loose with vibration, but rather needs to be coerced apart with serious intention. They offer different levels of sticktion, from relatively easy to nuclear bombs only nudge it apart levels.
What OCfjr said. The 3M Dual Locks are not even in the same league as traditional hook-n-pile velcro.

Wrapping up this job today, then I still need to dial in the flow rate. I am running out of placement areas for these components, this is a butt-pain. :rolleyes: The GPS antenna barely fit above the stock fuel tank (and below the trim piece). The oil pump was buried upside-down between the Lithium battery and adjacent big cables.

Brought up two (+) circuits from the rear FZ1 Fuzeblock, and also two ground wires. Asphalt loom protects wires from hot-ass engine bay. One red wire is a 5-amp circuit for the Pro-Oiler, the other a 10-amp circuit for the LED Lamps:


The main Control Box must reside up forward, inside the right faux Air Intake - there are already a lot of electronics in the faux Intake from the factory.
All of the following wires get connected to the Control Box. That upper 3-wire cable (red/green/blue wires) is input from the GPS Antenna. Lower 5-wire cable (yellow/red/blue/green/white wires) comes from Pro-Oiler head unit, mounted in the cockpit. The larger grey cable contains two 18-gauge wires that will signal the oil pimp to actuate. The 5-amp red (+) and a black ground wire powers the whole she-bang:

Finito! This was a complete butt pain, but it's all wrapped up, now for the painful calibration time.

The GPS antenna resides in a box identical to that Junction box you see zip-tied below. The antenna must lay flat to get reliable GPS signals, so it resides under that fuel tank trim piece where red rectangle is drawn:


All buttoned up until the next time... which has to be fairly soon, as I still have the LED Driving Lights to install. The relay for those will have to sit inside that faux Air Intake, too:

So, why a GPS for an oiler? Why an oiler at all? Modern x ring chains work fine for 30k miles or so without dousing them in oil. My fz1 is on chain number 3 and has 71k on it. The Ducati ss-s did 1239 miles Friday -Sat, don't plan on even looking at the chain.

Nothing like freeway miles to get that average mph up ;)


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Lubing the exterior of the chain helps keep it cleaner and slow the wear.

I always like following Dale's builds. Way back when, he even called me and we talked through my first 30a relay installation.
Lubing the exterior of the chain helps keep it cleaner and slow the wear.

I always like following Dale's builds. Way back when, he even called me and we talked through my first 30a relay installation.
I dunno. Most chains I have seen that people lube are covered in the grime that the lube attracts, and that grime is what seems to chew up the o/x rings. I wipe them off with a rag and some WD40 once a year, but that is about it.
I wonder if the O-Ring chains hold up to the speeds Dale may put it thru?? Oiler is good insurance??

Oh, c'mon, now. Sure, I used to be a Naughty Boy, back in the day, I used to molest asphalt on ST1100s, Blackbirds, FJRs, Hayabusa's... but like a fine wine that ages, I have slowed the fuck down.

As part of this aging process, I admit I can't see for a rat's ass at night, certainly compared to my 40's and 50's. Even eyesight in dim overcast days is kinda suspect.

It's rare nowadays that either Yamaha sees much action over The Ton.
Well, it's been a while, so frenzied getting ready for the Tour of Honor SS1K Extreme - which is the entire point of this build.

Installation of Aux Lights was quite gnarley, bracket fabrication for the two under the chin of the bike was a LOT of trial-n-error, that was a week-long painful process, 3-4 hours every night:


Quite the time crunch pulling all this off, no real opportunities for extensive testing, just mounted all four lamps up, then immediately put them into service:


Here I am down in Winnemucca for the Start, about to go try to grab all seven Nevada Tour of Honor memorials while riding a SS1K - here we go!


Starting Fuel Receipt:

Gas1WinnemuccaSTART.jpgNV1 - Beatty mural:


NV2 - Boulder City - Vietnam Wall replica:


NV3 - Carlin:


NV4 - Fallon:


NV5 - Fernley:



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NV6 - Pahrump:


NV7 - Virginia City:


Final Gas - 1180 miles total


Heading back north the next day.... this Yamaha MT10 is a Beast, it is an entirely worthy successor to the Hayabusa as the Long Distance machine! Only a 260-ish mile range before I really need to look for fuel, but I am making that work, even in Nevada.

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Greg here, visiting from "the other" site ...
I'm really impressed with this build, for two reasons-
1) I've been riding Suzuki I-4's back and forth across the country since about 1979; mostly on modified Bandit 12's. I really enjoy a SPORT-Tourer, (love my FJR as well, of course)
2) I'm seriously considering an MT-10... should have the Dough for one by next Spring, and I'll want to make some mods to make it more Open Road worthy... especially the LIGHTING, which (stock) I consider too minimal, even if it's very "bright". Can you offer some more thoughts on how you mounted/wired those auxiliary driving lights?


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